matt_lamb_160

... 6-2-1 so scavenging isn't going to be the best...

Based on who's theory? It is the most studied and proven arrangement for a 6. 6-3-1 are more questionable in this regard even though HP has been made with them.

 

What size tube are they (diameter of primaries and secondaries)? That's the most important thing and as wagoon said tuned for one is not tuned for all.

 

What are you planning on revving the car to?

 

Can you add a photo of the exhaust collector? It is pretty importing seeing as you have a reaSonable sized exhaust.

Interesting, with the big engine being built, you could use a FG Ecolpi engine they have 12.1 compression stock

Those LPi Falcons are the best factory car ever made (well one of, haha). Pity Ford's marketing managers are rubbish.

Bugger. Probably easier to put a cam or belt driven dizzy on a Barra anyway, just not as nice.

Get a photobucket account and copy and past the IMG address in here

Very nice

What is your idle speed? If it is a bit low just bump it up a tad and don't worry about the rough cold running. It's likley no big deal??

Name of the other thread is Hybrid DOHC motor (DOHC head on SOHC block)

Stupid iPad won't paste for me but a guy on fordmods started putting a Ba head on a sohc bottom end. Pity he didn't finish it.

If you were going to do that why not just use the injectors. I would have thought the main reason is to get rid of the ECU etc.

 

I want to see the engine Thom was talking about.

Not sure why people don't think these manifolds are any good. People have made good numbers with them. Pretty hard to make a log manifold that is any better.

 

As said, that crack doesn't matter, but would be easily fixed with castcraft rods in an arc welder. They often crack there, but I have never seen an open crack like that (usually hairline).

 

Bolt holes on them seem to be close not to fitting at the best of times. I'd be following pro250's advice here.

TRW ones are later crossflow conrods.

 

There is a forum somewhere which compares cut crossflow and E-series rods. E-series have more meat. Unfortunately, I cannot remember where it was.

With high comp and programmable timing I had issues with the EST, but only on starting. TFI fixed the issue

 

If you are running locked timing I doubt it will matter though.

 

Use TFI if you can.

Yes Sly, shorter lobe sep will help (not that 109 is too wide), so will all the extra cam. On a big custom cam I would use 106 lobe sep as Camtech selected for you.

 

That's not a bad looking cam that one LJBD.

 

Looking forward to seeing seeing that chamber Ando.

Great info mate, it is helpful for others looking at pushing the comp boundary.

 

The inlet profile on that cam is not super aggressive for 10+:1 and is probably the issue. You are only giving up 2-4deg of timing so possibly not a huge issue. If the inlet was more like the exhaust, I would aim at 10:1.

 

Programmable, would have been the go but oh well I guess (Sly loves his fixed). When do you have pinging issues (revs, etc.)? What does it start like with that locked timing

Looks like Ando has it covered. Good stuff.

 

Nath, better close this thread and start a build thread so you can be someone who has done too.

Ok, I missed that about the cam/head package.

 

Ok.

A 230deg cam is getting towards being a pig and can easily become one (mismatched gearing etc.). I have had more than one person ask for my advice on a better suited cam after fitting one.

 

They don't need to pull it apart to tell you it's not stock, much more than a 214deg cam and it will become obvious. A 4brl and extractors are obvious. Plus they can just decide it is and put it off the road for whatever reason. Not why I called the other one P-plate friendly anyway, 200hp is plenty to kill yourself.

 

Remember it is your first engine build and the bigger you go, the more likely it will fail.

 

The info, is pretty much all there so it is upto you.

170rwhp (~200fwhp) PRO250 build

 

" crow 214 214 stock head no rollers stock dissy coil extractors will work with your 500 but will feel stronger with a 4 barrel this will work with a stock stall auto and stock gears and will pull good and all sorted out nice will keep/beat you mates crapodore easy fit 3.45s and he will have no chance and will not fall to bits cause its a small engine"

Remember that when people say they "would use". A few of us on here have done all this many times before so listening to people who do and have is the best and safest way.

What are you saying about these people who say "they would use". Has someone said something misleading? Not sure if I missed something??

 

Sure the people who have done are important to listen to, but lets not be too dismissive.

 

I am still not totally sure what the OP is after.

 

I can see a range of engines from a nice P-plate friendly 208-210deg cam with tricked weber and stock manifold, the old favourite 214-218deg cam with 350-500 Holley to what seems to be the new favourite 230-235deg cam with 465-600 Holley. Seems to be heading towards the later.

 

I think comments from people who have done a range of engines (not all 13sec combos) and what they did would be helpful. Have we done this somewhere already?

Jase Stoodley ran this combo for a while before moving on. Take note those who want realistic reliable pump fuel power all for sensible money.

 

Block: 80da bored & honed .030

Crank: 250 ground & balanced

Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted

Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp.

Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors!

Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp

Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these.

 

Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer.

 

Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference.

 

Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2programmable running 36deg total timing.

 

Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears.

 

the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp

Not too different to what the OP put up apart from the intake and carb, which I pointed out as a issue. Even the 500 Holley must have been limiting above 4,500rpm?

 

I'd probably go a higher stall than that, but Jase is probably in the best position to comment on that. I always thought the compression was conservative in that engine too.

A 4brl manifold (redline is good enough and I am not convinced any worse than an Aussiespeed, both have different good points) with a ~500cfm carb (465 Holley, 525 Demon or similar).

 

You can use what you have, but it will cost HP.

 

If you use the 218deg cam, I'd try what you have already, but only because you have it.

Ok then, but if you are going to use that cam, your intake is a big limitation

Perhaps I have commented on this before (I see my name), but if it is only ever going to see 5,000rpm I would go with the smaller 218deg Camtech cam with a 500 Holley or small 4brl either on a secondhand redline manifold, reco'ed and balanced standard bottom end and that's about it.

 

Or forget about going big (it seems your goals are not set that high) and build an engine with the manifold and carb you have, a 208deg camtech and a std reco'ed 250 bottom end (maybe slightly higher comp ~9-9.5:1) and have a nice car to drive. Will love the highway with 2.77 gears and no over-drive and will work well with as low as 3.27 gears. No race winner, but a nice engine

Yep, I am a fan of that thing too.

http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=4014