matt_lamb_160

What is the fastest N/A six in Australia? How fast? Any links?

Vehicle type not important.

What direction is that play?

The flanges (bolt holes) on the manifold do not match the head.

You could wagoon, but you need to be able to bolt the manifold to the head.

When you come to change the leads or dizzy, you will wish the bananas were still there. The BBM are a very cool idea, but suck to work around.

No you didn't Ando (you did try at one stage), but I'd like to read it. Vizard just stole(possibly a bit harsh as he has contributed) what he presents about flow percentages unfortunately. It was published by someone (Charles Taylor) along time before him, Vizard just cashed in in it (with little to no reference to the original work). In saying this, yes, I do always like reading what he has to say. He is a bit condescending in person, but a smart guy who has got to play with cool things for a long time.

Oh, and I say listen to Ando on the port matching (if you just take material out of the Aussiespeed you will probably make it worse) and I will go further and say the inlet port on any engine should be slightly smaller than the head.

Anything over 60% is ok. But closer to 75% would be better. You can have loads of exhaust flow so long as it doesn't mean a big port or hindered intake flow, but volumetric efficiency does not improve (measurably) once you pass 80% and chances are you are hurting something else.

Bargain Ando. My last set of rockers were $200 (Adjustable Yella Terras in 1.73:1)

Sorry, wagoon, I still have no idea where you are heading with hp and cornering. HP and driveability maybe but driveability and handling are two distinctly different things.

Good tip on those rockers Sly, I would not have thought of a V6 T-Bird.

Why can't it be a dyno champion and handle well??

A lot of that is what I said (apart from the whole mech vs sec thing) and is why the small 4brl is better than the big 2brl (you can leave half of it closed until you need it and maintain good signal).

In the end 2brl will be ok (the cam is not really on before 2500 anyway), but the 4brl will be better.

Mech. Vs vac well... ...have it which way you like, but vac will be easier to get accustomed to for most (I do like what you are saying though broken-wheel)

Performance below 2,500rpm is almost irrelevant for a strip car but not a street car, that is why I said the comparison is no good. The bottom end limitation of the 500 Holley is the issue here. For the strip, top end is the issue. The 500 will have a bottom-end comparable to a well setup 600 vac. Not all "real worlds" are the same.

Agree with Ando, 1/4 mile times do not show the true disadvantage of the 500 Holley for street use.

Yeah, he jumped in while I was editing damn it!! Haha.

3% increase in capacity (over standard) for thinner walls? I say not worth it.

Get a 4brl

Don't bore it more than you need to. No real advantage in going oversive.

For bearing and ring size, the machine shop will tell you how much they have machined.

Good info Ando.

Yes, I am aware of the difference, just saying it is not as big as it may at first seem (equivalent plenum volume that is). They are a pretty massive dam on the old Redlines though. Pig a Redline (something I yave thought about, but have not done)?

Never used one, but have wondered what they'd be like on a good streeter:

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/191295208049?nav=SEARCH

In theory they sound good, but I am a little dubious.

A 4100 Autolite's the go (480cfm version)

A 600 is a bit big for the cam and use that you have suggested, bit bigger carb and primarily for drag racing and it is a different story. A 465 will give up very little on a 600 up until 5,250rpm.

4brl is worth the extra cash unless you only ever drive between 2500 and 4000rpm in which case a 500 Holley will be just as good. Above and below that a vac secondary 4brl will be better.

Plenum volume on an Aussiespeed is pretty big too when you consider that a large part of their big fat runners is more or less doing what a plenum does.

Very high rpm primaries, which do not seem to match the rpm band of the secondaries.

What are the extractors you are using already?

50mm primaries? Really? That's big unless they are really thick. Secondaries are about right, primaries should be 42-44mm.

Agreed wagoon, but there are a few other simplified ways that let you know if you are very close or a fair way off. Also, primary length can be altered to allow for different secondary lengths, so if your secondaries aren't that volume there is likely no need for alarm (plus diameters are key).

Very nice David thanks for the pics. If you want, after you upload the pictures to photobucket they get an IMG code which you can copy and paste here and the pictures will show without clicking the link.

Ando is your man then!!

And if I don't use them they will be up for sale..

I better tell you they are crap and buy them cheaply then, haha.

I am keen to see what the sizes are, and hopefully they match what you want. Sounds like a big engine in the way (6,500rpm is a lot!!!)

No doubt they will work. But doesn't hurt to evaluate, only Trent knows how far he wants to go and he has asked for an evaluation, so best we give it.

That volume rule, is only kind of a rule (it is not the underlying mechanism by which extractors work), that so happens to work in some instances. Ando follows it and it works for him (and I have no doubts with respect to what he does, he is on the ball), but I think if you varied the configuration of the extractors it would likely not stay true (I do not intend to try it). This is not about battling 6-3-1 and 6-2-1 anyway. The extractors in question are 6-2-1 and that doesn't make them either good or bad.

Best not to say someones thing won't work if all you have is conjecture (I am not try to be a jerk here Greg, just don't know how to word that more friendly, haha).

Mainly the pipe size Trent, the length matters, but is far less important than correct diameters. The collectors are important as well so we really need to see the exhaust collector.