matt_lamb_160

Do it up with loctite...

Looks good Ando.

I like it. Thanks for the video Mixalis and the info Sly.

That thing is awesome. I also want to see a picture of the speedway car with the cam driven dizzy and all the silicone.

 

Loving the competitiveness coming out here too.

Get on to that exhaust Ando, I want to see pics. I am a fan of this build.

The 517 cam is too big and retarding it will make it worse.

 

Tightening the lobe sep on the other cam will make an already narrow banded engine even narrower. The cam is fine as is or go the 206 deg cam.

 

The Tighe cam has good specs, but may be a bit big. All the specs needed to work out LSA are listed.

Doing the opposite:

 

http://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=69393

You would want a pre-86DA crossflow, or the rear seal could be a pain. Deck height will not work with std. Rods and piston. You can probably find an off the shelf combo that will fit (most likely not Ford) or get custom rods and run crossflow pistons.

 

Any one have pics of a 221 crank versus a crossflow crank? I don't think I have ever seen a 221 crank.

 

Make your own mind up it you want to do it or not.

The new exhaust section looks ok, i can't work out why they've reduced it to 3" instead of just going 3.5" straight onto it like you want to do, strange.

Gonna sound pretty crazy though i reckon!!

I would say, because it is an exhaust to header collector for a system which requires an exhaust (peak HP) which is greater than what works with the headers. Without the reduction, the exhaust effectively becomes a big collector.

 

Otherwise, it makes no sense.

Yes. Or re-curve it which is a pain to do at home. Even just with the amount of advance (not the rate) adjusted (not hard) it would be better than locked timing in most cases. I don't like those dizzys though.

Programmable ignition is not way more expensive anymore and it is better so use it.

 

In saying this, a very high stalled drag car may not see the benefit (as Crazy has said).

 

But, if you do not have a massive (over-stalled) drag car, it is borderline stupid to run locked timing. If you are getting away with it, you must not have enough compression.

 

You can still have an advance curve and use a 6AL or a street fire.

Camtech 510, if going hyd.

List of good cams:

 

For use with std. EFI ECU, would be good in any otherwise std x-series: Camtech ***-509

 

Should be std. and my pick if you don't plan on changing much else: Camtech ***-503B Tighe 422A

 

Max. recommended for 2.77 gears with stock converter (needs springs), I think these actually need minimum 2.92 diff gears (max. 3.27). Tighe 725 (could use the crow 14892, but it is small for a 280deg. adv. cam)

 

For details see the Camtech and Tighe’s websites.

 

http://www.camtechca..._xflow_hyd.html http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

I remember this car when it was first done. Glad someone bought it (although I hate all the stick on shit). Good luck with it

Shaft movement will be an issue when oil spews into the dizzy at rpm! It can happen.

 

You will only have issues under real heavy load (real high compression when starting mainly) with the EST. TFI seems to be spot on, but I agree that leaving the outer module is just leaving something to fail.

Good enough for me Ando (although I still don't see what people can do with flow figures). Hope it works well for you. I am sure it will be fast, whatever the end numbers are.

 

If you are not lifting past 0.6" you aren't using the flow above the 0.5" valves for very long.

That is cool. Thanks.

I'm keeping Cam specs, peak flow, intake to exhaust percentages and valve sizing to myself. Normally I would share everything, but not with this engine. Too much time and money invested to give everything away. Happy to give intake flow figures up to .500" lift.These figures are @ 28" with manifold attached and the biggest bellmouth the flow bench operator had. He said the bellmouth he made wasn't big enough and the high lift figures were probably 8-10cfm more in reality. Old Joe (flowbench operator) is well in his 60's and has been playing on flow benches for a very long time so I respect what he says.100 61.80200 120.25300 171.15400 208.75500 225.45Should do the job you think Matt?

Don't have a clue, don't know your exhaust and high lift figures...

 

That is good flow there. A bit low (may be just?) at 0.100" considering the other numbers?

 

You seriously think that intake to exhaust ratio is that sensitive, especially given we don't know your cam?

 

Never understood people not sharing flow figures when they are showing off a build. Cams, valve sizes, and porting I get (I can't build it just using a list of numbers), maybe their logic is the same as yours. I don't tend to show what I build at all I guess, haha.

Anyone have access to FG control arms and wouldn't mind measuring them and sharing there dimensions (castor arm included)? Thanks for any contribution.

The AU engine idea is a good one and is what I would tend to do if it wasn't for the plug angle or wanting to keep an original engine. 351w roller engines are also tempting.

Flow figures Ando?? You seem pretty impressed by this head.

This is a basic build and the cast heads will work fine. There is tones of meat considering the cams we are talking about. The stock intake ports will barely need touching (if at all) and the exhaust ports are short and easy enough to "hog out". The only real expense is getting the throats opened up, new valves and getting the seats done (if you bother going for bigger valves). Not cheap I guess, but AFD heads are more. Counting your labour is BS in my opinion, this is a hobby right?? Plus alloy heads look like arse, painted or not on these old girls.

 

I wouldn't get rid of the points, just connect them to a street fire MSD.

 

 

GT40P heads won't work with 99% of exhaust manifolds because of the plug angle, which is a bummer

Looking promising

The exhaust ports need a fair bit of work, take the bump out, square up the roof and just take the shitty lip off the outside edge of the floor (but don't lower the floor overall). 1.85" intake and 1.6" exhaust valves will help low lift flow as well. Heaps of pics on Mustang forums.

I'd go with comp as well but and extreme energy XE256H.

 

If you aren't touching the heads an alloy manifold is pointless other than weight saving and a cast 4brl manifold will be pretty much as good. If getting a manifold, the dual plane Weiand manifolds are meant to be the go.

 

465-600 Holley. 480cfm Autolite 4100?