matt_lamb_160

There is a space requirement. But I may get away with making a new engie mount (turbo will be low mount). Or I could just use my Mike Vine top mount log mani.

WTF, why did that go all weird?

Hope you can read what I have said. I cannot fix it (tried editing)

<p>Ok, that sounds better (some how I misunderstood and thought only the FG turbos had the smaller front). I don't really want to swap comp wheels. I need a BA/BF comp cover.<br />

 </p>

<p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p><br />

With the 0.7 A/R cover the compressor side is a bit too big for a 4ltr which sees rpm as low as 1,500 judging by the compressor map, which explains what Ford did. The smaller front will improve low end efficiency, reduce heat and avoid surge better.</p>

<p><br />

When I was looking for a new turbo I wanted something with specs like the FG turbo you have described (I didn't know about them), but with a 0.82 A/R rear and external gate.</p>

<p><br />

I looked at all different brands and all of the ones with suitable fronts had too small a turbine. I went for the Garret as its efficiency made up for the comp being too big.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Should have got an FG turbo and changed the rear.</p>

I recon you're right. I want to 'down grade' to FG specs effectively.

They have a different comp wheel don't they? If not that would be great. Will give me a lot more room and get further away from surge (not that it is a problem)

My turbo is a 0.7 A/R

14650 is a slightly better cam. But if I had what you have I wouldn't buy a 14650. If you are looking to buy one, Camtech make a similar, but better cam than the 14650.

What are you doing with the car?

Hi all,

Anyone know of a compact 0.6 A/R direct bolt on compressor cover for a GT3582R other than this one:

http://www.himni-racing.com/turbochargers/garrett-compressor-housings/garrett-gt3582r-turbo-compressor-housing-compact

Regards,

Matt

The swap doesn't upset me. I love what you have done, just wasn't sure why. What you have said makes sense. I remember the water leak now and can understand your troubles trying to get good work done for you.

Nice. Don't understand why people would think those cams won't work NA. You might run different lobe step but that's about all.

You may have answered this already and you don't need to justify your actions to me; but why change from the crossy when you were so close to your fastest desired time? Would have though the crossy was a bigger achievement?

This is very cool and unique though.

I like it. I have seen another one where the guy replace the plenum with a piece of pipe with a slight bend at the end to angle the TB in the desired position. The guy was on xfalcon. Faurly similar result really.

Good to see you learnt how to do the pictures.

EDIT: See silver Falcon engine bay:

http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26582-custom-plenums-250-crossflows-alloy-head/page-2

You better learn how to post pictures so you can show us what you have done!

Sounds like an EGR valve to me. It is a cast alloy outlet going off at a 45 pointing towards the brake booster and two bolts to hold the valve in place? If so, cut it off if need be.

PRO250's engine looks like a good match for you. Could drop the 14650 straight in it if you find you want more rpm.

Or, perhaps you would consider a good 218deg at 50thou cam (Camtech make a good one). With this cam there is no great need for 200 rods and late model crank (although my last EF crank cost $20 so why not use one? 200 rods not needed though), will be nicer than the 14650 engine most of the time and will be easier on the bottom end. It will work well between 2,000 and 5,000rpm.

3.45s or 3.23/3.27 will be ok.

What lettering is on the side of the head near the inlet ports (something like c1,c2,e1,e2)? What is the diameter of the intake and exhaust valves?

Ando's advice is good.

I think you can easily do this within budget depending exactly on what you expect.

Forums are to help people with their questions and to share what you are doing. You didn't offend me. You annoyed me and what you added was hardly an idea, but I am over it.

I am sure all of our alternative options are wrong because none of us know what he wants, we need to hear from him. Not much point offering other options before then.

Too many of these threads focus on what other people would do rather than supporting and helping the original person with what they want to do. Perhaps I should just stop reading these types of threads and just focus on builds I like and stop crying about it lol.

I'd build a 300 with LS heads, 4.125" stroke and bore and run metho injection, but nobody cares. Plus it can't be done for $3k haha.

Perhaps. But an engine at this level will work with basic ignition, second hand off the shelf pipes and you would need all the same driveline components for a 4L. The money all goes into the engine, intake mani and semi decent balancer.

Sorry, but half of these comments are not helpful. 78xcgxl, everyone is well aware that you would put in a 4L. You say it in every crossflow rebuild thread and it is annoying. If you don't like crossflows, don't read about them.

I'd prefer to rebuild a crossflow than install a 4L, but that was not the question.

No reason not to use a 4brl with a hyd. cam (sorry Sly), perhaps not a 650dp though. An engine with that cam will not see more than 5,500rpm and a 465 will be enough. A 500 2brl. will start to limit the engine after 4,500 and won't be as friendly as the 4brl below 2,500rpm. Cost difference isn't great as you wouldn't use a stock mani and carb.

What are you going to do with the car and what rev range do you intend to use mate?

You don't need 200 rods with that sized cam and pistons to suit are $$$ and hard to get.

The 225 mixer will be fully open at 3,500rpm. It will be ok til around 4200, but will kill HP after that. It is too small for the 218deg cam.

The 208deg cam, EFI manifold and 2.75-2.92 gears will love the FWY. Perfect FWY combo in my opinion. Works well enough with up to 3.27 gears.

Nice neat setup Ando

Fair enough.

same i did mine on a hoist bud welded a bung to the top of the sump

 

drained the oil then refiled when i was done did not want to wast 2nd had oil

How did you put the hole in the sump and not fill the sump with swarf? 

Also optimum secondary length depends on engine size and peak torque/HP rpm.

Nice work Adrian, but the minimum diameter should be around 0.5" bigger than your primaries and the tail pipe 0.5" bigger than you minimum diameter. So unless you intended on using a 3" exhaust with you 2" secondaries, you probably do not need it and a baffle collector will work.

In saying this, if you are only making around 200FWHP, what you have will work, despite you minimum diameter causing a restriction when compared to your secondaries.

VenturI merge collectors are only needed when there is a big step in size between your secondaries and tail pipe diameter.

Easier to adjust if you use a multi-meter under the car set to resistance. You will have infinite resistance until the switch is in the correct position.

Yep. I welded a 5/8" fitting in when I had the engine out to rebuild it.

You might be able undo the engine mounts, lift up the engine and drop the sump enough to keep the swarf out. Drop the oil first.

I recon engine out would be easier though.