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Posts posted by matt_lamb_160
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You will like the 208 cam.
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This is a bit old now, but I run that Camtech cam in a turbo'ed 250 and ran it NA for a while. It is a perfect HWY cam with 2.92 or 2.77 gears and can be used with an auto and stock converter. It suits an otherwise stock setup. Std springs are even ok. I recon Camtech's cam below this one should have been std. Both are perfect for how Ford planned for a 250 to be driven and are nice for cruising around.
With a 5 speed and 3.23 gears I probably would go bigger (depending on what the car is used for) than the 208 cam, but no more than the 218 deg cam if it is a regular driver. The 14892 Crow used to be the go to cam.
gerg and bear351c reacted to this -
I had a list of chamber sizes somewhere on xfalcon, but Ford Man's numbers match my memory. I think you want a C1 or an E2 if you don't want to do chamber work. Your compression is already pretty high and I think a D will make it higher (especially if it needs a skim or has had one).
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I am also keen to see updates on this...
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Agree totally with dean. Adding headers to this car will be a waste of time and money. It you are worried about originality, it is ruined as soon as the bonnet opens to. I suggest leave it as is or do a muffler swap only.
The headers will make almost zero difference to your power. The exhaust manifolds are not what limit these engines in stock configuration.
gerg reacted to this -
The Camtech cam you are talking about is what I suggested.
I doubt you will need new pushrods, retainers and locks. I also doubt you will need new valve springs, if you can check the ones you have and they are still ok I would use them. I have used std. pushrods, retainers, locks and springs with their 208deg at 50thou cam for years without issue (although I upgraded them when I added a turbo).
Also, the cam would work perfect with 2.77 gears and an auto, so reconsider your gears. 2.92-3.27 would be my recommendation with a T5.
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On 2/9/2019 at 6:12 PM, matt_lamb_160 said:Camtech do a 201 deg at 50thou cam that will work (CT142 509). Will be a strong cam with standard 2.77 or 2.92 gears, especially at highway speed. Probably aim at 9.5:1 compression and use good fuel. I always pick Camtech over Crow, but that is just me.
PapouGhia reacted to this -
Thanks Dean, I will have more of a look. I was looking for other things (chainsaw electronic ignition module) and just stumbled on it.
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Has anyone ever used these silicone chip "High Energy Ignition Systems"?
https://www.jaycar.com.au/programmable-high-energy-ignition-system/p/KC5442
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Nope, the rod is shorter to allow a longer stroke. The engine we are talking about is 272 cubes.
SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
On Tuesday, April 09, 2019 at 7:32 PM, gerg said:I'm struggling to understand why anyone would make an already undersquare engine even more so. Maybe more off-boost torque? Crank harmonics would also get worse with smaller journals and less overlap. Hardly worth the trouble if you ask me.
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Faster spooling and because you can. I wouldn't do it, but it is nice that people do try these things. Your points about the effect it will have on the crank are correct and are a turn off for sure.
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Yeah, I am not sure about the pistons, something forged. Yes, definitely had an offset ground crank. It's weird the things you remember.
Enkei74 and SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
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Poly on the front half is an interesting idea. It still has to deform the poly in bump, but at least there is less poly to twist (fear of snapping the rod at the thread still puts me off somewhat). I think there are a number of options and I would have thought more companies building these kit would look at it (mind you, there are a number of US options).
gerg and gregaust reacted to this -
Just the front bush. Allows change in geometry under braking and relies on flexing the rubber/mount for bump travel. Yes it is reliable and does it flex that much under braking, maybe not. But out of the entire arrangement it is more of an obvious area of improvement than most other things addressed by these kits and I wouldn't be spending big everywhere else and leaving it as is. It's just a matter of replacing it with a proper joint.
gerg reacted to this -
If you are planning to turbo, you are better off with stock or slightly longer than stock rods anyway. I would not use 200 rods, the benefit of the longer rods is for NA applications. There are pistons that exist for the AU rods that will work, but you will need to look. Just make sure the rod length + piston compression height add up to the same value as it does with the stock setup. If it is price that turned you off of the Spool rods, forget about 300hp NA + more later. If you have never driven a near stock crossflow and a decent sized turbo (say GT3582R) running 8-12 psi boost, you should try that first before committing to this build.
gerg, Enkei74 and XPT reacted to this -
The Mc Donald's Brothers kits do look good. Pity that all these kits still seem to use the dumb caster arm setup. Would be good if one of the came with a bolt on option for a proper front joint. RRS do make an ok looking joint, but there isn't a lot of space to put it in.
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I recon you need s build thread rather than posting this in the crossflow section.
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Camtech do a 201 deg at 50thou cam that will work (CT142 509). Will be a strong cam with standard 2.77 or 2.92 gears, especially at highway speed. Probably aim at 9.5:1 compression and use good fuel. I always pick Camtech over Crow, but that is just me.
deankxf reacted to this -
With a Spool imports (or similar) 101mm stroker crank you get 296ci and the engine is still square. Just need to drop $3.5+k on a crank.
gerg reacted to this -
I think that the easier way is to build a 1FZ-FE. 275ci (and kits to take them to 311ci), 4 valves per cylinder, alloy head, 100mm bore, good ignition setup and ok parts availability (although $$$).
gerg, XPT and Mixalis reacted to this -
9 hours ago, FORD_MAN said:I've alway's liked the big bore idea that did the rounds years ago, re sleeve, grout, 350Z piston, 200 rod...
+1
FORD_MAN reacted to this -
Checking 275 wheel clearance on the XF
in Wheels and Tyres
Posted
Old thread, but that car looks perfect. Can't beat gold rims and green paint!
Back before I decided to leave my car as is, it was going to be pretty much this but with FR-1 style rims and redine tyres