PSI_LTD

If u put vents, they usually sit 1/3 of the way up on ur bonnet.. when ure moving forward that area has the lowest pressure above it, making it effective to suck underbonnet air out

I actually used a kit where u thread 2 layers of heat resistant material with stainless wire. Looks a bit noddy but did the job well.

I object!! Haha. Yes, u can use turbo beanie, I had the same problem.

Mate, u better have an A+++ installation to get the value out of those $1200 focals

Dude ive got morel tempos running off 50wrms each. absolutely rocking. Could use more power but sounds phenomenal as is

1. Avoid having extra flange joints pre turbine... so no gate adapter plates. 2. Reallistically u should have the gate either off both branches, if a log manifold, one off to the side is fine. The turbine option is ok, just ensure its welded right. lol at the pissing contest though..

have you looked at plasti dip? not a show finish, but meant to be resilient, and easy to apply.

your wastegate shouldn't really be partially opening... maybe something else is a bit off?

make your own. use one of those digital pressure sensors, run 12 V to it, and hook the output to a 1/4" valve..

not necessarily - only if you're referring to cheap suspension. 1. ensure the car is not hitting the bumpstops. raise on 'low' springs not superlows. superlows arent stiff enough to compensate for lowered ride height 2. shock absorber tuning. with good adjustable shocks, you can adjust the shock stiffness, depending on specific driving condition. bigger piston diameters can also get better control, without butchering the ride quality. name of the game is controlling high speed rebound / compression. 3. vibration + harshness from the bushing. blame nolathane. replace with std rubber. 4. wheel + tyre weight. heavier wheels have more momentum, therefore will work your suspension harder.

just use the btr auto, and buy the harnesses to run a std ba computer. i'd love to see a 6spd auto in an xf though..

i paid $800 (backyarder), for a 600 hp - ready C4. still shifts like on day one.

dont refer to the balancer cos the outer can spin.. spin the engine until end of compression stroke (thumb over hole), and you can use a screwdriver (big handle so it doesnt fall in) to rest against the piston dome, and observe when the piston passes TDC. set the timing off that. --i dont think the engine can run on 180 deg out timing (especially gas), so chances are you're not too far off

a single 3/8" line will support around the 220 rwkw mark (so 300hp). incidentally, that's the flow limit of many standard type gas tanks.

^^^ that's pretty much bangkok mate. i'm finishing up in a month's time. am quite over it by now.

bahaha. plenty of that at bangers

if you're planning on lowering the car, it's important to fit stiffer springs to compensate for reduced suspension travel. otherwise you risk bottoming out of the suspension, which degrades grip rapidly. king springs are fine for cruisers, but if you want to throw it around, get some stiffer springs.

20 bucks for a six pack? come to bangas. $1.30 a can..

you'd only do it if you were after a significant handling increase. with the wagons being cart sprung, there would be a bit of work to set a kit up. unless you're looking to go as fast as possible around corners in your wagon, id spend money elsewhere.

that sounds awesome.. good luck finding info on turbine sizing (learned that when I was at ford from the turbo engineers) - dont remember the maths involved. but the compressor side is explained over at turbobygarrett.com. keep us posted!

hey mate, i'd say one way of doing it could be like this: 1. estimate when your turbo should hit full boost (power balance equation - how much power the compressor requires to achieve a certain pressure = when the turbine is able to provide such power) 2. for that rpm point, factor in volumetric efficiency, intake density (off temp @ given pressure), and displacement, and you should get the mass flowrate.plot that point against target boost pressure. 3. plot your second point @ max power figure using same technique as above (you can do another at a halfway point, if you wanted) ... this gives you the efficiency range of the compressor. if the first point is too close to surge line, the turbo will have a harder time of making full boost at that point. from my research, ideal condition is where the efficiency range is on the either side of the max efficiency island on the map

when sizing up your compressor wheel, don't just look at the peak power figure, also plot where you expect to come onto full boost. eg: @ 4K rpm you may be moving xx lb/min of air x 2 bar boost. that's your first point on the map.

another thing can be related to auto / converter. i had my converter / auto replaced, and the clunks were much less severe... currently has relatively fresh C4 and tight converter, and you just feel and gentle but positive click when gear is engaged.

i found that mixtures and timing can affect this to an extent. when the auto's in gear its under load (small, but a load nonetheless). i found reducing the idle speed adjustment but ramping up ignition advance and richening the mixture (on lpg) would reduce the idle speed difference.

enzed or pirtek will have the required hardware, but the reps probably wont know about it. go to a autogas hardware shop, they'll def have what you need. there's one in oakleigh that I used to get stuff from