Stu5766

I appreciate the feed back. I just wish the MSD " Tech Guru " told me this when I asked the question. I had the cash & was willing to upgrade to the 6AL box. Now I'm still willing to get one, but cash flow has dried up. Somewhat disappointing.

That's interesting, because I spoke to MSD tech about getting a 6albox to go with my ready to run dizzy & they reckon that there was no need. I told them what I was running & my application, so buggered if I know.

[/URL] http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/stu5766/me [url=http://s1105.photobucket.com/user/stu5766/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpg.html] This is my first go at head work. On standard heads & a smaller cam it was pulling 14 flat down the 1/4 mile. BUT, that was with a C4 & 3.45 rear end. The manual might kill my times.

Thanks for the feed back. Detanation dose not seem to be an issue. I had 3.45's under the rear end, but it was still nowhere near max RPM going through the trap at WSID. So the programable box, I assume you are referring to a 6AL box.

Any form of restriction in an exhaust creates " back pressure " You want as little back pressure as possible, how ever a small amount can assist with scavenge. On a standard pressed metal system, I doubt that knocking out the baffle would have a negative effect on performance.

It's been all up & running for awhile. I did have a tricked up auto with a stall converter, but I inherited a toploader & have always wanted one. The comp ratio is roughly 11.1, I was running 3.45 diff ratio, but swapped to 3.9's for getting it down the strip Duration at 50 thou is 236 & lift is 0.565. 1st gear isn't that short, so it might be a close. I always thought is was a wide ratio. I will have to check.

What oil are you running in the diff? The diff shop would have advised something. I know mine is about 80w140

The retainer is the ring that sits behind the axle bearing. They would have pressed it on.

What type of fan sensor are you running??? Are they multi speed or single speed. I knew a guy who changed his whole engine due to over heating, only to find it was the high speed fan relay not working. Fans were only operating at low speed & couldn't keep the thing cool. That was in an XH ute.

It's a 6002 or something like that.

The direction won't mater on that type of Roller bearing. Knock it in flush with the end of the crank & the input shaft will slide through as far as it needs to.

Just reading back, you have a BA header tank? Does your radiator have a cap or is it completely sealed?? I've seen people get the radiator fill cap mixed up with the header tank recovery style cap & lead to all sorts of issues.

You need a spring in the bottom hose to stop the water pump sucking the hose in. If you are running hot even at freeway driving, it sounds like a flow problem. Are the top & bottom hoses an even temp?? Are the tanks on the radiator even temp?? The other question is, are the fans wired up correctly?? If the fans are wired backwards, you might be pushing the heat back into the radiator, instead of drawing it out. With wind flowing in at 100km/h & fans trying to push it back out from the other side, the heat will be trapped & just keep getting hotter. Simple test, when the fans come on, does hot air pump out towards the engine, or out through the front of the grill??

I used bearing blue, but same sort of deal gerg.

You can adjust the minor error in the speedo from the small screw in the rear of the speedo. I used a jewlers screw driver to do it. ( I believe plastic screw driver is recommended ). I was able to adjust 40km/h error out of mine when I went from 3.45 to 3.9 diff gears.

How did you fit the bearing retainers on the axles?? I hope you didn't use an oxy. I knew of a wanker who calls himself a mechanic. Used an oxy to fit the bearing retainers. Axle slid out of the housing whilst going around a corner. Made a mess of the rear quarter on an XW.

Usually there is a pressed section in the floor that you chop out. It's a bloody big hole.

I decided to upgrade my exhaust to make it breath better. After some phone calls, I worked out that I could purchase all the bits to make a mandrel bent system cheaper than paying a shop to fit a pressed metal system. So the fun began.

Thought I might share this with you. It's not going to be everyone's cupa tea, but I required a monster tach & shift light for when I start hitting up the street meets again. My brother kindly donated one to my cause. Problem was that I hate the whole tacho hanging off the column & apart from looking stupid, they draw unwanted attention. This was my solution.

165 bucks. That would have been ideal. Oh well, it's in there now & I don't have to explain more $$$ spent on the car. Good to know for future reference.

Cheers for the compliments guys. It's a bit calmer now with the hotdogs. It still sounds nice and angry, but I would have got booked for sure. It was like 95db at idle!

The motor will bolt in like any other early Windsor. You will require to override the smart lock or smart shield as fitted to later AU's. There are a few options in doing this. if you maintain the BTW auto, you may need to mod the cross member & tailshaft. You could bolt an early C4 or toploader with the early bellhousing, you just need a 50oz flywheel/flex plate. Doing this will not require crossmember or tailshaft swap. You could swap the from dress to run V belts or set your car up with power steering ( I'd go rack conversion ) & run the serpentine belt. I spoken in depth with a couple engineers regarding brakes, vented front discs & drums on the rear were sufficient to stop a 351 clevo, so getting it to pull up a 5.0 litre injected Windsor won't be an issue. At the end of the day, the only thing the engineer would be looking at is the injection, since the origins & capacity of that motor was readily available in 1969 in the form of 302 Windsor. ( flat tappet, carby version ).

Tacho is there purely to activate the shift light. Since it's a reputable brand that I got for free, it was better than getting a cheap Chinese stand alone shift light. Running at the creek I want to get the change as close to a certain RPM as possible.

Exhaust guys no doubt earn their money, because it's a prick of a job, but cash is better in my pocket. Considering I got all the materials for a full mandrel system for around 500 bucks.

Oiling them won't hurt, but will make it slippery if you do it before fitting the hemisphere. I personally fill the diff with oil & rotate the wheels by hand to get everything rotating & oil through the bearings & recheck the oil.