Stu5766

Twin 2.5 inch mandrel bent with power flow mufflers ( South African mufflers ). http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/stu5766/Mobile%20Uploads/th_trim.AC2973A1-3D5D-4A82-B525-AA291BDEC747.mp4

Cheers jack. You never know if you never go. I'd hate to have not gone & forever question did i miss out on something good. Sometimes it takes abit of effort to find some good gear out there. I almost bought it because I was there with the trailer & didn't want to go back empty. Lucky for me I went with a mate who has walked around on this earth a few more years than me. He simply said " look at this mess & honestly tell me what you can gain from it. Your only going to get this mess because you dragged a car trailer for 3 hours. " sometimes you can't beat the insight of age & experience & learning from my mates previous mistakes.

So the 378 was a complete fizz. Drove nearly 3 hours with the car trailer to find a completely rusted out XD Fairmont. (That's ok, I was expecting that ). Not one piece of the vehicle was salvageable. Under the bonnet was a bog stock clevo that had standard thermoquad carby, standard inlet, a set of 2v heads ( reciept for reco 8 years ago. ) Standard valve train & valve springs. The auto oil was burnt & had bits of metal on the dip stick. The engine wasn't seized, but it had blown the bottom hose at some point in spectacular fashion. It was on his oldmans property & according to the owner of the car it went really hard ( he reckons he drove it ) & was a 378 because the old owner told him it was. His oldman told me that it arived on a trailer one day & he never even heard it fire up. It was a shame to see the case so far gone, because it was a matching numbers Fairmont with a set of log books in the glove box. The car must have been loved at some point in time, but too far gone to save. I'm sure the plastic was starting to rust!

Is it a Fairmont or just a base model falcon?? It will be one of the above mentioned issues or if Fairmont a possible issue with the thermostat for the climate control?

Also keep in mind that on an early Windsor they run press in rocker studs. Once you start increasing lift & spring pressures, it won't take much to punch the press in studs out. I would invest in getting screw in studs. You will need to get the heads drilled & tapped for this. Sounds extremes, but better than a horrible valve train failure. A 600 vacuum secondary with a duel plain manifold will be nice on a Windsor. Keep in mind that there is no need to go too big, due to being heavily restricted by Windsor small port heads.

Yeah, being a passenger in dads '62 fairlane was fun before it had seatbelts. Steel dashboard, windscreen probably not laminated & feet pushed into the floor fan to hold yourself steady. Driving was ok, because you have a steering wheel to hang onto.

No chev badge, I'm going straight for a set of corvette racing flags!

I assume that yours must be original cast iron & date stamped?? Unless you are getting the car judged for concourse, shelve the original pump & grab an alloy GMB pump from local parts shop.

I'll have more news on this when I pick it up in a few days. If it's everything it's meant to be, I'll be extreamly happy. Might even remove the top loader & run a C4.

How is Mr slave?? You were with him last night??

Only if said thermostat is jamed shut. Even then I would recommend cutting the guts out & refitting the plate to offer some restriction of flow.

Ultimas have always been a Chinese product to my knowlage.I had to work for a bloke who insisted on selling all things ultima. Brake pads, rotors, shocks. I know who the Australian supplier is, but I won't mention names. So from at least 2007 they have been Chinese.

Ultima = Chinese shit!

No worries mate, happy to help out.

Yes. You might need to move it back to the second by hole on the chassis.

Available from the local curry hut.Better than getting anal boosted???

That's just silly. Anular booster wheel nuts will be perfectly ok for this application!

The double over head junker pumper needs to set at .000002 lash at 27.5 degrees before top dead center, with the engine cold.

All good mate, as long as you got the result your after. Ideas on my XD has been a series of evolution over the last 8 years or so. Always something to change or improve. I cut out & rewired stuff the other week, cause as much as I tried to convince myself that it was the best I could do, the truth was I was being lazy when I did it.

Sorry mate, it sounded like you were put out because I questioned how you were doing the job. I just see all the effort with the electric power steer, grafted firewall & fairlane dash, you would want something a tad more refined than the above mentioned way, but hey if your happy with how it's going to work, it's no dramas.

So much easier to diagnose in person than over the net!

Calm down mate, I'm not having a go at anyone. I'm not saying what's right & what's wrong, but for me personally elongating a hole that much on an engine mount pederstal just seems wrong. For all the effort to fit the engine, I would spend a little more time to prevent an elongated hole. The reason I ask about the gearbox output is, moving an inch forward is fine, but then a different diff setup goes in & it sits an inch further back. Next thing the tailshaft is laying on the road. Just small things to consider.

By bringing the engine forward, won't thT also require a modification of the gearbox cross member, as the box will also be moved forward, wich will require adjustment / modify the transmission selector & also is there enough length on the output spline of the tailshaft to allow eveything to go forward? Does it affect handling & balance with the motor further forward of the crossmember? Instead of elongating holes, wouldn't it be better to weld another plate to the engine mount pedestal with the correct size hole in the required position???

I have twin 2.5 inch power flow mufflers. I had to fit a couple of 12" hotdogs to the system to quiten it down some. I found the hotdogs took away a lot of drone & a few Db aswell. In saying that, it isn't dumped at the diff. I've. Ever been a fan of exhaust dumped under the car. It creates the drone & boom that you are suffering from.