LJDB

Hey, @Panko i had my isc remotely mounted also with the xf throttle body. it was a long time ago but i recall screwing the throttle bypass on the xf throttle body shut or almost shut and playing with the idle screw to get it right. The rev hang is pretty common on e series if the idle isnt set correct. i remember reading something on the TI performance website about how to set it. How have you set base timing. The ecu need to be in diag mode to set it and from what ive noticed is the vehicle responds differently afterward which i suspect is everything is relearning. its really a lot of trial and error with the idle. i would suggest disconnecting the battery after adjustments and driving it for 5 min to let it adjust. With the j3 tuner you can set your target idle speed. Does your j3 have a tune or just the smartlock bypass?

My engine started making a rattle just above idle. Sounds like timing chain so I reset the tensioner and it was worse. Pulled the rocker cover off and I can see the guide on the tensioner side vibrating back and forth at that rpm causing the noise. Timing marks are still fine and the chain doesn't have excessive slack. It funny that at idle and above around 2000rpm it doesn't do it. I tried another used tensioner and tension with a screw driver feels stiffer but it still rattles. Not sure what it might be. Oil pressure looks fine although there isn't a lot of oil sling off the chain when revving.

You are probably correct in regards to the sensors. One thing on the knock sensor is xflows that came with a knock sensor in the head bolt also have a slightly different rocker cover with extra clearance to suit. So if you adding it you need to allow for that. 

It's all pretty straight forward once you have it all out infront of you. Even my corty had the same colour wires as el for some things.

Do u have the electric style dash? 

I just used the original xflow sender units for coolant and oil pressure and ran them the same as factory.

The el ecu needs to correct sensors to work. Run them along side the original.

I'm going to check the cams with a dial indicator but checking with a cheap vernier they are very close lift wise. After a clean the 92dt head has a smaller chamber, il cc them at some stage to confirm. Port wise they look very different. I suspect the larger port would suit boost better. Valve springs on tickford head are not painted and visually look the same.

Hi guys, I have 2 heads that I'm choosing between to use on a turbo set up. 

One is a 92dt early tickford head and cam the other is a 94ab head with 91 da cam. Both look to have the same sized valves and chambers. The 94ab has a noticeably larger inlet port and searching through posts is a good head. 91da cam is also the pick of the bunch. Problem is there isn't much info out there about the early tickford stuff. 

As the title suggest. Does anyone know if am xflow head stud kit will fit a sohc engine? Cheers

Where does one look on the spark plug to identify correct timing? A/f would have to be correct to give an accurate reading?

So I recently had the head off the car and found that the valve stem seals had lifted off the guides. 

It's a alloy head stamped e1 and the guides have a taper at the top. The seals have a metal retaining clip. Which valve stem seals suit this head?

My little corty would love 400hp on the street but who wouldnt want 800hp. I live fairly close to calder and heathcote and been to neither. Although one day i will, its fun telling the hsv boys its just a xflow at the next set of lights

Mines on 10psi but only revs to just over 5k. I start making boost at 2500 and 10psi not long after. I killed my first low comp engine because of the tune on less boost. This engine i'v ran more boost and timing without issues. Both motors are anything but build, just bits and pieces I have laying around. This motor is mid 8 comp, mild na cam with alot of overlap and shows 150psi on comp test. I was just amazed about the hp figures the Yanks have on low boost blow thru set ups. I suppose it comes down to experience and knowledge of product. Or comp v boost/timing and when too much of one starts to effect the other. Get them both right and it's happy days.

I'm not in the process of building an engine just found it interesting. When I put together my turbo motor I just went largest chamber and dish, zero decked to keep comp down.

Hi guys, I came across a post on Facebook in a blow thru turbo page about the best way to achieve a desired compression ratio. It was pretty interesting to see different people's approach to the same goal. So it was basically which is preferred a larger cc chamber or dished piston. Now most of the guys on it are Yanks with big capacity v8 running high comp with boost making big power.

Now this had me thinking about our old trusty xflows which have a variety of head and piston types to choose from. So which would be better, zero deck flat tops with larger chamber or small chamber with large dished pistons down the bore? I know there would be more to the equation but ideally flat tops, zero decked would promote quench, whilst dished pistons zero decked would do the opposite so would there be a point? Or is 10.1 still 10.1 no matter which way you achieve it? The Yanks seem to get away with high comp, big turbo set ups with e85 ect but we don't have the luxury

Iv heat wrapped the dump pipe, turbo beanie and made a heat shield for the exhaust manifold from a b series heat shield. Iv also played with different thermostats and water pump pulleys to get it right. Im using a fixed fan with small water pump pulley. With the larger pulley, coolant temp fluctuates alot between driving and in traffic. 

If the turbo is water cooled the places the lines are tapped in may effect the system aswell.

clutch is forked. Ordered a dual friction one from sunbury brake and clutch, spoke to the bloke and he has one behind his 500hp clevo so should do the trick 

http://www.sunburybrakes.com.au/ford-falcon-clutch-kit-cushion-button-stage-2-eb-ed-ef-el-au-4a1992-to-3a2002-h1220ncb-(2)

250 crossflow, il have to pull tge box out and have a look

Hi guys, does anyone know if there is a difference a single rail throw out bearing and a t5. Early single rail clutch kits come with a seperate bearing and the t5 style has a bearing and retainer clip all in one.

Problem im having is minimal freeplay at the fork. I have backed the cable right off but if i push on the fork away from the clutch is hardly moves as if the throw out bearing is to wide. Google hasnt come up with much. The car drives fine but im getting slip if i give it a hard time. Its an extreme cusion button clutch and should be capable.

Mines a 4 speed and I went back down to 2.9s. I had 3.7 and tried 3.23 and there was little difference. First gear was way to short and banging throw the gears way to quick. Revs are the big killer, mine only pulls to alittle over 5k. Starts making boost around 2600rpm and full boost (10psi) at 3k.  2.9s in 3rd at 5k im doing about 155kph. Mines also in a corty so pulls along nicely off boost and cruising around.

With my o2 sensor in closed loop my cruise driveabilty is poor. The ecu is constantly altering the a/f and varies quite abit depending on temps. I also have low comp and mildish na camshaft which doesnt help. 

Before my current setup i changed from a redline 4bbl manifold to aussiespeed and they are definitely a better manifold. I agree that its the way to go but it can be made to work for now.

As for fuel system, something like a fitech fuel commander would be easy. Easy to rig something up with the same principles. Although a small surge tank is fairly simple to set up. Better to do it correct from the start

Wouldnt the sniper kit allow the tuner to select a targeted a/f ratio. This will make the tune safe but not ideal for all out power. Set the a/f so the leanest cylinders are safe going off plug readings? Covers the uneven cylinder flow. Iv done something similar on my efi set up with xf banana manifold but mines turbo so rich is good for me.

Afm has like a trap door inside that can jam shut. Have alook at that.

Have u checked spark. Have they actually confirmed it getting to much fuel? (Wet plugs). People love to jump to conclusions and miss the basics. 

On 28/03/2018 at 2:25 AM, BuB said:

HI Is the cortina finished if so ho does It go ,me and my son want to do an FG Barra conversion with a T5 in a 75 TD 6cyl cortina have any advice

BuB

I have a te xflow turbo. Pretty basic efi set up and its more than capable on the street. 

9 hours ago, xd4.1efisc said:

Back when mine was still M90 I blew a couple of pistons similar to what another guy did on here recently with his turbo xflow.

The motor that blew had 28cc Precision Hyperectic pistons, crow cam, roller rockers, main and head studs, hardened push rods, ported E1 head, decked block, shot peened rods and whatever else I have forgotten about, it now sits in the corner of my shed waiting for me to do something with it.

It blew just before Powercruise 2012, so I put a 100% stock low Km EFI E2 head motor in and bolted the M90 supercharger and bits to it, and bugger me it went better than the one that blew, that is why the stuffed one is still sitting in the corner.

I have since changed to the M112 and the stock motor is still going fine, it had me worried on New Years Day when it did not want to run, it turns out 2 MSD leads were stuffed, it was fine the day before.

A few years back I contacted Camtech about a custom cam for when I rebuild the stuffed motor, and I seem to recall the cam had a 114 lobe centre.

Any idea on the camshaft in the stuffed motor. From my understanding for a turbo u want as little overlap at possible as while both valves are open backpressure in the exhaust before the turbo can be higher then the boost pressure and push the charge back into the intake. On a blower there is little to no restrictions in the exhaust so more exhaust duration and overlap helps the blower push everything out.

In saying that my new slapper xflow turbo motor has a diffdrent cam with more exhaust duration and lift and it seems pretty happy. Im only running half the boost atm but feels good. This motor is pretty flogged too.

Rnd 2 starting shorty. Just finished putting in a used 86da, .030 22cc ACL duralite pistons, backyard ported open Chamber xe efi head. Comp is around 9.1-9.2 with a different NA cam with more overlap. Hooked up the knock sensor into the front head bolt the same a late efi Xf. Il take it easy with this one till the tune is fat as I want it to last the summer.