XF EDDIE

If cleaning all the connections doesn't fix it you can try adding a resistor in parallel to the pot to send a bit more power through

Recently Ive run into a problem trying to fix the old f100. I have called all the pannel beaters around my area of central queensland and I cant find anyone with a frame puller. The tip of the drivers side is bent but not too horribly and the thing still drives fine so I dont think its a write off (although Im closer to a butcher than I am a pannel beater so what do I know?) but no shops Ive called even have the tools to try and fix it. So here I am again asking for help, if anyone knows of a shop that can fix even just the frame it would help me greatly. The closer the better but Im willing to travel interstate for someone good. In the meantime Ill keep calling around and Ill keep you all posted if I have any luck. (Although it looks mangled, the only bit actually bent is the tip where the bull bar mounts the rest of it is just built like that)

If you pull the starter off you can get to the converter bolts Thanks mate, It took me way too long to figure that out!

3 days ago I learned the meaning of if its flooded forget it and my fg falcon got the engine flooded with water. I pulled the plugs out and got the water out of the cylenders but it wont run now and the engine sounds very lumpy. Im planning on running a compression test but what kinda damage am I gonna be in for. Im already suspecting bent con rods or bent valves but I dont know how to check that apart from just pulling the head and looking at it. Any help would be much appreciated!

Well with one problem down another pops up, I can't find the bloody inspection cover on this thing. Ill try rattling out the bolts and see if its just splined together but Im completely stumped about how to get at the converter bolts.

Well I have finally returned to this now that I need a car for a mate, I got my hands on another xr6 that had been in a wreck for $1000 and am pulling the engine out of it today (if anyone needs fg parts hit me up). The plan is to do the swap for now and then rebuild the original engine to turbo spec and make an xr6 turbo out of it. Ill keep you posted but so far so good! Its not just safe, its 40% safe!

I'm working on a 07 fairmont for a friend that has no tail or dash lights even though all the fuses are ok and it has no relevant dtc's. I haven't gotten a good chance to look at it and inspect the harnesses but I'm hoping someone here has some pointers as to what it could be. Right now Im suspecting a break in the harness for the tail lights but I really have no clue to whats wrong. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I only get at this thing half an hour at a time so any and all help is welcome!

Hey fellas. Recently I got myself an 86 XF Falcon Ute with the plan to get her on the road and daily it. However I've got several snags with the biggest being the engine not running. It's an unleaded 250 xflow with est. The closest I can get it to running is when I hold it at wide open throttle and even then it barely gets to idle rpm and spits out of the carby. The motor is in good condition with 130000 KMs on it and running dead on 150 psi on all cylinders. I have rebuilt and then replaced the carby (original one was an 86 DA TD and the replacement is an 86 DA TD not sure if that matters) checked the timing with it being on °6 while cranking and has strong spark on all cylinders. I have run out of ideas and hope someone here can help me with getting it running. To make things worse the ignition locked up after I took the key out and will not move so I have had to pull the switch and use a screwdriver. I have tried wiggling it and moving the steering wheel off the lock with no luck so I'm gonna unbolt the lock for now and see if I can free it up. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance

Does this part of the frame unbolt? I have access to an XF roller if it's easier to just pull parts off that.

How fucked am I?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220873735667?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXF|Model%3AFalcon&_skw=xf+falcon+ball+joints&itmmeta=01JQGC9TAS5YJYK3070QEN5783&hash=item336d19bdf3:g:wS4AAMXQ1PNRaVI9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cffHdUR5aWsbdERj%2FJnWStUVF6ZvCL%2BjlUBaCKSXar0BVp%2FoRhUwxz74Fiqxmk%2BLiL7K0JlCm5v6QRHrWZxXAtKYlRY1R9%2Ff55yaTlkUDVEYMjBi90s80EUu5KnZ9eSlQ4cUHF%2FvXU9fWymWGjdhjXabJcCivqndJu%2FLOpT3M7KpwT7jRjd0rh6bBbaLrswQJqs4CJJbggPF4pm%2FJjZiq8rcjbu54DadPaIY1ZPfFKgifMnFJ9lIZ182ACGY0a4gj6YRFHwS69M%2BD6DS50qM9KEum4pldpHrolbdbClDVGHA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwqWnjLxl Anyone had any experience with this brand or know anywhere better/cheaper?

After a slight mishap with a concrete drain I've fucked up a rim with brand new tyre and my alignment so after crab walking it home I'm firing up the lemonade stand and Ill be rebuilding the front end and trying to do a diy alignment. Just one of those days

She came good! Message me and ill get it shipped off

I plugged it in and its not working fully. I stuck it in the tank and its reading low but it came up a bar after sitting for 5. Ill leave it in overnight and see if it comes good

Ill just throw a new regulator in when I get home and just see what happens.

Highest voltage at the dashboard was 13.5v so that doesnt seem to be the problem. Is there some kind of sense wire Im missing from my base model?

Checked the links and found no voltage drop but at the alternator I was getting 14v. This dosent seem high enough to set off the cluster but Ill check the voltages at the cluster to see if anything is funky there(if anyone has a pinout it would be much appreciated) but if not Ill just throw another regulator at it and see if it fixes it.

I already tore the dash apart and cleaned up the shitty joints and cross checked it with my ghia dash so I dont thing thats the issue but the voltage is testing good at the battery so I cant see what gives. Heres the video of the issue on the ghia cluster

I don't have the spac sender in yet but the oil pressure light is glowing dimly while I'm driving although I'm verifying it with a mechanical gauge before worrying about it. I'll probably ditch the spac cluster as that volt gauge issue is pissing me off

Well the schedule has been moved forward as the oil pressure light started coming on as I was driving, time to find out if the marketplace motor is any good!

A bit off topic but I'm having a problem putting an s pac dash in the XF. When the car is off the volt gauge is normal but when I start it up it climbs all the way up untill only the red segment is blinking, I am having the same problem with the ghia dash. The alternator lamp is working as it should and it tests at 13.3v with a multimeter so it seems like gauge issue.

Yeah no problem, won't be able to test it till the weekend as my tub is full but if you want it just shoot me a message

Yeah even if it is what hes describing its still not worth the price in my eyes with it being a base model xf. Still if it truly was cared for all its life why would you repaint it?

Completely off topic but look at this "sweet" deal https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1655352515356760/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A48cbd7b3-f7c8-4ef4-8b68-d8ca64676bad 34k for an xf!

I did a half assed rebuild on both the rear slaves so I know they are clear of debris and the hoses seemed okay but they will be getting changed along with all the other rubber components as time goes on That's probably gonna be the go for the time being as I gotta get my fg out the door first. I get that the oil pump will be cooked but if the journals aren't gonna be too affected then I'll just bump the idle up and swap it next weekend. I do wanna do rebuild the original more of an exercise in engine work than for any practical purpose although if the bores and bearings aren't too bad I'll probably just clean all the metal out of the engine and just do a cam swap and reseal. The one going in has unknown k's but he said it was running sweet before he swapped it for a V8 and it comes with some extractors already bolted on.