XF EDDIE

She came good! Message me and ill get it shipped off

I plugged it in and its not working fully. I stuck it in the tank and its reading low but it came up a bar after sitting for 5. Ill leave it in overnight and see if it comes good

Hey fellas. Recently I got myself an 86 XF Falcon Ute with the plan to get her on the road and daily it. However I've got several snags with the biggest being the engine not running. It's an unleaded 250 xflow with est. The closest I can get it to running is when I hold it at wide open throttle and even then it barely gets to idle rpm and spits out of the carby. The motor is in good condition with 130000 KMs on it and running dead on 150 psi on all cylinders. I have rebuilt and then replaced the carby (original one was an 86 DA TD and the replacement is an 86 DA TD not sure if that matters) checked the timing with it being on °6 while cranking and has strong spark on all cylinders. I have run out of ideas and hope someone here can help me with getting it running. To make things worse the ignition locked up after I took the key out and will not move so I have had to pull the switch and use a screwdriver. I have tried wiggling it and moving the steering wheel off the lock with no luck so I'm gonna unbolt the lock for now and see if I can free it up. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance

Ill just throw a new regulator in when I get home and just see what happens.

Highest voltage at the dashboard was 13.5v so that doesnt seem to be the problem. Is there some kind of sense wire Im missing from my base model?

Checked the links and found no voltage drop but at the alternator I was getting 14v. This dosent seem high enough to set off the cluster but Ill check the voltages at the cluster to see if anything is funky there(if anyone has a pinout it would be much appreciated) but if not Ill just throw another regulator at it and see if it fixes it.

I already tore the dash apart and cleaned up the shitty joints and cross checked it with my ghia dash so I dont thing thats the issue but the voltage is testing good at the battery so I cant see what gives. Heres the video of the issue on the ghia cluster

I don't have the spac sender in yet but the oil pressure light is glowing dimly while I'm driving although I'm verifying it with a mechanical gauge before worrying about it. I'll probably ditch the spac cluster as that volt gauge issue is pissing me off

Well the schedule has been moved forward as the oil pressure light started coming on as I was driving, time to find out if the marketplace motor is any good!

A bit off topic but I'm having a problem putting an s pac dash in the XF. When the car is off the volt gauge is normal but when I start it up it climbs all the way up untill only the red segment is blinking, I am having the same problem with the ghia dash. The alternator lamp is working as it should and it tests at 13.3v with a multimeter so it seems like gauge issue.

Yeah no problem, won't be able to test it till the weekend as my tub is full but if you want it just shoot me a message

Yeah even if it is what hes describing its still not worth the price in my eyes with it being a base model xf. Still if it truly was cared for all its life why would you repaint it?

Completely off topic but look at this "sweet" deal https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1655352515356760/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A48cbd7b3-f7c8-4ef4-8b68-d8ca64676bad 34k for an xf!

I did a half assed rebuild on both the rear slaves so I know they are clear of debris and the hoses seemed okay but they will be getting changed along with all the other rubber components as time goes on That's probably gonna be the go for the time being as I gotta get my fg out the door first. I get that the oil pump will be cooked but if the journals aren't gonna be too affected then I'll just bump the idle up and swap it next weekend. I do wanna do rebuild the original more of an exercise in engine work than for any practical purpose although if the bores and bearings aren't too bad I'll probably just clean all the metal out of the engine and just do a cam swap and reseal. The one going in has unknown k's but he said it was running sweet before he swapped it for a V8 and it comes with some extractors already bolted on.

Ive got one out of my XF, I'll test it tomorrow but if it works you can have it for $10

Ahh so it would be best to get it fixed sooner rather than later. Would it just mess up the bearings and oil pump or will it scrag the journals as well?

Well the Idea sorta worked. It didn't just flow out when I cracked the bleeder like I hoped but it definitely helped get the air bubble out of the system when pumping the brake (even after adding the fluid back in it was down a quarter from what it was). The setup was pretty crappy with it leaking air from everywhere but with some more work this could make life that bit easier. Still probably easier to just buy a vacuum bleeder!

I suppose that would have a similar kind of deal to the standard one man bleeder (with substantially less fucking about). There isn't a store that stocks that stuff where I live otherwise I would give that a try. My idea was to modify the a spare reservoir cap and install an air fitting into it, then just pressurise the reservoir to a few psi and just crack the lines (kinda like a reverse vaccum bleeder) I'll give it a try tonight and get back to you with the results

Well after taking it for a drive its apparent that the cams disintergrating again so Ive organized another engine to swap in while I rebuild this one. So if anyone has any links to a good bearing kit/gasket kit for the old 250 it would be much appreciated. I want to do a full overhaul on it as when I changed the cam the first time the cam bearings looked cooked. Also would driving it around as it is do any damage to it that wouldnt be fixed via a rebuild?

Its now officially on the road! Even I still dont get how it passed with some of the rust and bushings but its now registered. Tomorrow ive got a bag of bushings to install ready for a 2hr trip on Sunday, Im also gonna try an idea for a power bleeder to try and get a pesky air bubble out in the rear brakes, so if it works Ill post a photo of that too.

Well its been a while but I have good news. With the seat I just zip tied the springs back together and shes good as new, Im keeping the ea seat untill I get done with the roadworthy but then Ill switch back to the xf seat. Took it to the mechanics today and all he knocked it back on was some bushings an oil leak on the fuel pump and the exhaust so I ripped the exhaust out of an xg that was in a car graveyard near me and turns out apart from needing to die grind out the holes on the cat pipe it bolts right up (looks better too) so that was a success too! Ill get the bushings done tommorrow and hopefully thursday Ill be able to post a photo with plates.

3 days ago I learned the meaning of if its flooded forget it and my fg falcon got the engine flooded with water. I pulled the plugs out and got the water out of the cylenders but it wont run now and the engine sounds very lumpy. Im planning on running a compression test but what kinda damage am I gonna be in for. Im already suspecting bent con rods or bent valves but I dont know how to check that apart from just pulling the head and looking at it. Any help would be much appreciated!

Ok so Ive got my new compression tester and got some new results Cylinder 1: 90 psi Cylinder 2: 90 psi Cylinder 3: 50 psi Cylinder 4: 55 psi Cylinder 5: 30 psi Cylinder 6: 25 psi I'm thinking bent con rods at this point but I'll do a leak down test before I start the autopsy. Got any other thoughts on what I should do before I crack the head off?

Honestly Im not too sure if this caused it or it was a coincidence as the light only came! on for a bit and then went out but I can see how a spring snapping could cause the brakes to become just uneven enough for it to set off the warning but either way kudos to the xf for giving me some kind of warning!

Last night I was driving my xf when the brake fail light came on, it was coming on dimly and came and went a few times but has since disappeared. Ive heard that this light comes on when the proportioning valve moves too far one way but Im not too sure on what it actually means. The way it came on makes me think that its a dodgy switch but what else can I check to make sure everything is tip top.