broken-wheel

been chasing a fix for this for a while without taking the whole dash out

tested vacuum switch in centre console and works fine, heat works as expected, fan works as expected, all the buttons/sliders work as expected but when you throw the slider to the right to heat the windscreen you can hear the fan going but there is no air coming from anywhere .... is there a way to fix this without taking the dash out ?

I think my XE bonnet is arriving this week from them...... i wish they would make guards

I'll just add one last thing to this discussion and it kinda important and the reason why Allan and I came up with the system we did.

 

Fuel Quality

 

Not the octane rating or brand. The quality of fuel delivered to the carb. Any internal bypass fuel pump will aerate the fuel and heat it. Both are not a good thing, even in a standard application. Ever heard a vane pump groan and be crazy noisy at idle? That's the fuel going thru the internal bypass and the poor old pump stuggling to deal with it, heating and aerating it.

 

So now you see why we made it that way and why I bash on about it. All the top line external pumps run them. They do it for a reason.

+1 on this ... I use the automotive fuel controller to slow the A1000 down, this stoped heating up the fuel big time and I can actually drive the car for hours with no issues, it needs a Tach signal to operate properly and works very well, it pulses the supply voltage to slow the pump down based on your RPM, if you use controllers that lower the voltage then it will heat the pump up. 

The pump is very cool, so is fuel and the buzzing is a lot lower, the MSD buzzes more than the fuel pump, before the controller the fuel pump would drown the msd buzzing.

idling for 10min before would stall the car and the fuel would boil? now no issues and the return fuel is actually not warm at all, and not a lot of volume, before it would hose out 

...and the MSD is in, missed the buzzing noise of the digital suckers

any off the shelf plugs that fit the EST dizzy plug? I fitted a TFI dizzy with the EST plug but atm I'm using small spade connectors as I got no idea where to get a plug for it, closet thing i found was https://www.efihardware.com/products/349/connector-distributor-3-pin-plug but they say it's vertical pin out

if all else fails i can probably rewire the module and use a 2 pin deutsch connector for + and PIP and short wire to the adjustment screw for earth 

put the ohms meter over the -Ve +Ve and bad pickup, got none so the msd will go in ....the tfi dizzy uses different leads so left it at that

looks good, pulled it all apart and gave it a good clean but it wasn't dirty at all, last time I drove it was about 8 months ago maybe 9, towed the boat went fishing then back home and parked it. Today put about 15L in it, sprayed some fuel down the carb as it would of been bone dry and she started right up then after 5min died, could not get it to start, back fired through the carb a few times so went to eat something, came back after a few hours an started straight up. Put a timing light on it and was rock steady then lost the strobe and died, could not re-started it.

I have a few TFI dizzy's and an MSD but don't really want to hack it, it even has the AM stereo and spare wheel, car done under 140k

 use these 

the ID is consistent, you can drop a ball bearing through it, these are for PTFE hose, as I gave up on any rubber hose for fuel or oil, the other fittings are alloy/aluminium and they are pretty shit on the ID, my guess is steel is stronger and they don't have to muse as much?

not really, the engine barely gets hot, the coil is warm to the touch maybe say 40 degree C

when cold car idles fine and drives fine for about 3min then dies, with the timing light on it you can see how the strobe goes away then within few sec the car stops

I found that when you use steel fittings the I.D. is much larger than aluminium ones, they don't look as good but the I.D. is much bigger than the same AN size in alloy ....

So today i pulled the car out of storage and wanted to drive it a bit. Fuel about 8 months old but started fine with some fresh fuel in carb. Idled fine after took it out and after a few min it died. Has fuel weak spark, let it cool down and starts right up, once engine hot i put the timing light on it to check timing, solid 12 at idle then warms up and i was loosing spark again. This is the old carb without EST with the chopper wheel dizzy. Haven't taken the cover off the side of the dizzy to look yet but it's normally the module or coil?

This one car that I don't want to modify with any after market ignition or parts ...

DBA T2 disks, QFM A1RM pads and braided lines up front, DBA T2 disks and QFM HPX pads at rear and 500 to 600 brake fluid is all you need for an XE/XF on the track over 5 laps and a cool down lap, the car is pretty light, bigger brakes will do nothing over 5 laps unless you can squeeze 265's on the front.

If you're not racing the short Koni reds with King super lows will be ok, can't comment on the coilovers but I got enough travel with 1.7" drop and the ride is like a Benz

if you have the bump then check engine mounts ...

Go Aeromotive and don't look back, if you can't afford it i'd go for a Carter P4070 (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/) this fuel pump is nice because it sucks from the tank and you can mount it to the chassis rail, it comes with rubber mounts, not as loud as Holley but still buzzing, nice buzz thou!

If you run a Holley carb then just get the P4070 and plumb it straight in the carb, it will sit at 8PSI all day without a regulator (self regulated) and it's cheap as chips and no need for returns etc. Vane type too! I use it as a lift pump for an Aeoromotive A1000 (overkill)

Keep in mind, -6AN will supply 500HP, no need to go overboard if you're only aiming for 300HP and no giggle gas. 

With the savings you have with this pump you can use braided PTFE hose from tank to carb, would never use rubber hose even braided for fuel under the car or in general, it will smell, don't listen to the blurb, never had braided PTFE fail or smell and they use steel fittings 

Get the Carter pump https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/

get two of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fbm2518/overview/ this is for the pump

get about 4 of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fbm1103/overview/

one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ear-175002erl/overview/

one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-220985/overview/

and your carb rail should have a port for your gauge

also change your fuel tank out to -6AN and use the Holley Hydramat (smallest one) as your pickup, this is also your filter

job done

yeah, welsch plug, rear main seal and dump the converter oil and fill with new one, any more money spend is a bad idea and would rather spend it on a C4

Also check your diff pinion angle, sometimes gearbox or engine mounts can play havoc with it

I would not put ProFlow in my car

http://s161.photobucket.com/user/sr20detme/media/IMG_2508_zps96981008.jpg.html have a look at the album, i have a box full of them if you want them, got the from the same people with a different name on them, they are shit 

Yeah. Crazy it will be on the limit when the water pump and thermo engages. But that's the beauty of alcohol. This thing will struggle to get water temp in it. They may engage after the burnout, hard to say. I don't imagine them coming on when the thing has 110+ mph passing over the alloy radiator. On the return road and the crawl back to the pits, yep for sure. The one gauge can log volts so I'll be able to monitor what's going on.

 

Basically I wanted just enough to look after the pumps, injectors, CDI, coils etc. and no more. Despite it being a drag car I plan on running a very big battery to compensate. I have no problem carrying the extra weight cause it will be where it needs to be for chassis balance - think counter balance 100kg of vanilla gorilla. One thing I have learned from speedway and most recently in helping clarkey out with his blown XY, is the importance of weight jacking and chassis balance. I've shaved 4 tenths off clarkey's ET and gained 6mph all through set up. No motor just set up.

 

That's the reason for the small alternator, reduce front right weight. It's just a theory based on semi sound math. If it doesn't work I'll make a tailshaft driven 90amp alternator. Lol. They actually use to do a race version of this small alt which throws out 90amp but not available anymore and those with stock have a decent price tag on them. MSD also do a mini chev alt. All are options.

on meth/alch you just don't run fans at the strip, just water pump, lights, fuel pump and ignition/ecu ... hardly 30 Amps

i would fuck off the alternator and go 16V if it's a pure strip machine, fuck weight, 3-5kg 16V battery or two and a charger for in-between runs, gets rid of a lot of complexities 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/brl-b169lc/overview/

That is a nice combo, 950 amps (crank) and 4.5KG comes with charger and you can mount the thing anywhere 

use 10-30 oil

60 is stupid heavy and so is 30, no idea why you listen to the supercheap/autobarn idiots or idiots on forums who say use thick oil because your engine is old, I use 0-30 in a fuckign 30 year old engine and it sings, no smoke, no oil drop and perfect oil pressure 

if you are in tassie then it gets cold there in the mornings and with 60 oil in the morning it's fucking insane, let alone 30 cold, it's like honey ... it's a good way to fuck up your engine ... I think ford recommended 25-40 or something, never heard of a manufacturer recommending 60 weight oil ... ever

no, the XF steering box has a bing "sneeze factor" right in the middle and it's way over assisted 

xe and xd are better than xf

pitman arm is 50% of the play

are those the LWC from eBay?

they are nowhere near a Koni or Bilstein, even by a long shot, they are cheap Chinese shit that will fail to dampen after 4 months 

at the end of the day if you're going for an engine master record then yes

Pavtek are not cheap, VPW will sell you a short motor for around the 10k mark, Dart block and 427ci add 5k worth of heads and intake manifold and you got yourself a monster, for under 20k you can bold all the parts to it yourself and it would be better than the pavtek motor but it will be a Clevor 

I would be very very  careful when ordering engines ... most don't tell you what they come with and what they don't and it adds up! like engine mounts, fuel pump, carb, intake, dizzy, sump etc. adds up to a lot if you're getting a long engine that makes 500hp for under 8k I would run away unless they call you to see it with the heads off and call you to witness it running 480HP on the engine dyno, pack it and put it in the back of your car while you watch them .... and I'm being serious here ... some people quote HP like fucking magic ... the technology DID NOT CHANGE that much! you know a lot of the clevo's making 500hp still run the Tighe 392C cam? that cam is very old but very good what makes the HP sound cheap these days is china spec pistons/rods/heads/intake ...

You're looking at 1k in machining to do it properly

you're looking at 3.5k for the bottom end (eagle 393 stroker)

you're looking at 2k for the heads (minimum for 500hp)

you're looking at 1.5k for carb and intake

you're already at 8k without actually an engine block,cam and dizzy and sump and oil/water/fuel pumps, lifters, rockers, pushrods, harmonic balancer...... etc .... think about it

Tubulars FTW... You can get them with offset ball joints and get some buit-in castor. Not cheap though, probly land them here for about 800 - 900 bucks

Agreed, I went tubular uppers and lowers and the thing is awesome, hardest thing is finding a decent pitman arm.....whatever repco sells is shit