broken-wheel

yeah with engine off it still don't go to the windscreen, i thought without vacuum it defaults to the windscreen but not the case here, everything works as expected except when you flick the lever to the right to go to the windscreen you just get the fan noise but nothing coming to the windscreen, hot or cold

yes the vacuum works, i can operate the heat to the floor or face nut not windscreen, i've taken the centre console out and tested the vacuum hose and it all seems ok car is an XE

I think my XE bonnet is arriving this week from them...... i wish they would make guards

+1 on this ... I use the automotive fuel controller to slow the A1000 down, this stoped heating up the fuel big time and I can actually drive the car for hours with no issues, it needs a Tach signal to operate properly and works very well, it pulses the supply voltage to slow the pump down based on your RPM, if you use controllers that lower the voltage then it will heat the pump up. The pump is very cool, so is fuel and the buzzing is a lot lower, the MSD buzzes more than the fuel pump, before the controller the fuel pump would drown the msd buzzing. idling for 10min before would stall the car and the fuel would boil? now no issues and the return fuel is actually not warm at all, and not a lot of volume, before it would hose out

...and the MSD is in, missed the buzzing noise of the digital suckers any off the shelf plugs that fit the EST dizzy plug? I fitted a TFI dizzy with the EST plug but atm I'm using small spade connectors as I got no idea where to get a plug for it, closet thing i found was https://www.efihardware.com/products/349/connector-distributor-3-pin-plug but they say it's vertical pin out if all else fails i can probably rewire the module and use a 2 pin deutsch connector for + and PIP and short wire to the adjustment screw for earth

put the ohms meter over the -Ve +Ve and bad pickup, got none so the msd will go in ....the tfi dizzy uses different leads so left it at that

looks good, pulled it all apart and gave it a good clean but it wasn't dirty at all, last time I drove it was about 8 months ago maybe 9, towed the boat went fishing then back home and parked it. Today put about 15L in it, sprayed some fuel down the carb as it would of been bone dry and she started right up then after 5min died, could not get it to start, back fired through the carb a few times so went to eat something, came back after a few hours an started straight up. Put a timing light on it and was rock steady then lost the strobe and died, could not re-started it. I have a few TFI dizzy's and an MSD but don't really want to hack it, it even has the AM stereo and spare wheel, car done under 140k

use these the ID is consistent, you can drop a ball bearing through it, these are for PTFE hose, as I gave up on any rubber hose for fuel or oil, the other fittings are alloy/aluminium and they are pretty shit on the ID, my guess is steel is stronger and they don't have to muse as much?

not really, the engine barely gets hot, the coil is warm to the touch maybe say 40 degree C when cold car idles fine and drives fine for about 3min then dies, with the timing light on it you can see how the strobe goes away then within few sec the car stops

I found that when you use steel fittings the I.D. is much larger than aluminium ones, they don't look as good but the I.D. is much bigger than the same AN size in alloy ....

DBA T2 disks, QFM A1RM pads and braided lines up front, DBA T2 disks and QFM HPX pads at rear and 500 to 600 brake fluid is all you need for an XE/XF on the track over 5 laps and a cool down lap, the car is pretty light, bigger brakes will do nothing over 5 laps unless you can squeeze 265's on the front. If you're not racing the short Koni reds with King super lows will be ok, can't comment on the coilovers but I got enough travel with 1.7" drop and the ride is like a Benz

if you have the bump then check engine mounts ...

Go Aeromotive and don't look back, if you can't afford it i'd go for a Carter P4070 (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/) this fuel pump is nice because it sucks from the tank and you can mount it to the chassis rail, it comes with rubber mounts, not as loud as Holley but still buzzing, nice buzz thou! If you run a Holley carb then just get the P4070 and plumb it straight in the carb, it will sit at 8PSI all day without a regulator (self regulated) and it's cheap as chips and no need for returns etc. Vane type too! I use it as a lift pump for an Aeoromotive A1000 (overkill) Keep in mind, -6AN will supply 500HP, no need to go overboard if you're only aiming for 300HP and no giggle gas. With the savings you have with this pump you can use braided PTFE hose from tank to carb, would never use rubber hose even braided for fuel under the car or in general, it will smell, don't listen to the blurb, never had braided PTFE fail or smell and they use steel fittings Get the Carter pump https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/ get two of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fbm2518/overview/ this is for the pump get about 4 of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fbm1103/overview/ one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ear-175002erl/overview/ one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-220985/overview/ and your carb rail should have a port for your gauge also change your fuel tank out to -6AN and use the Holley Hydramat (smallest one) as your pickup, this is also your filter job done

yeah, welsch plug, rear main seal and dump the converter oil and fill with new one, any more money spend is a bad idea and would rather spend it on a C4

Also check your diff pinion angle, sometimes gearbox or engine mounts can play havoc with it

I would not put ProFlow in my car http://s161.photobucket.com/user/sr20detme/media/IMG_2508_zps96981008.jpg.html have a look at the album, i have a box full of them if you want them, got the from the same people with a different name on them, they are shit

on meth/alch you just don't run fans at the strip, just water pump, lights, fuel pump and ignition/ecu ... hardly 30 Amps i would fuck off the alternator and go 16V if it's a pure strip machine, fuck weight, 3-5kg 16V battery or two and a charger for in-between runs, gets rid of a lot of complexities https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/brl-b169lc/overview/ That is a nice combo, 950 amps (crank) and 4.5KG comes with charger and you can mount the thing anywhere

use 10-30 oil 60 is stupid heavy and so is 30, no idea why you listen to the supercheap/autobarn idiots or idiots on forums who say use thick oil because your engine is old, I use 0-30 in a fuckign 30 year old engine and it sings, no smoke, no oil drop and perfect oil pressure if you are in tassie then it gets cold there in the mornings and with 60 oil in the morning it's fucking insane, let alone 30 cold, it's like honey ... it's a good way to fuck up your engine ... I think ford recommended 25-40 or something, never heard of a manufacturer recommending 60 weight oil ... ever

no, the XF steering box has a bing "sneeze factor" right in the middle and it's way over assisted

xe and xd are better than xf pitman arm is 50% of the play

are those the LWC from eBay?

they are nowhere near a Koni or Bilstein, even by a long shot, they are cheap Chinese shit that will fail to dampen after 4 months

at the end of the day if you're going for an engine master record then yes

Pavtek are not cheap, VPW will sell you a short motor for around the 10k mark, Dart block and 427ci add 5k worth of heads and intake manifold and you got yourself a monster, for under 20k you can bold all the parts to it yourself and it would be better than the pavtek motor but it will be a Clevor I would be very very careful when ordering engines ... most don't tell you what they come with and what they don't and it adds up! like engine mounts, fuel pump, carb, intake, dizzy, sump etc. adds up to a lot if you're getting a long engine that makes 500hp for under 8k I would run away unless they call you to see it with the heads off and call you to witness it running 480HP on the engine dyno, pack it and put it in the back of your car while you watch them .... and I'm being serious here ... some people quote HP like fucking magic ... the technology DID NOT CHANGE that much! you know a lot of the clevo's making 500hp still run the Tighe 392C cam? that cam is very old but very good what makes the HP sound cheap these days is china spec pistons/rods/heads/intake ... You're looking at 1k in machining to do it properly you're looking at 3.5k for the bottom end (eagle 393 stroker) you're looking at 2k for the heads (minimum for 500hp) you're looking at 1.5k for carb and intake you're already at 8k without actually an engine block,cam and dizzy and sump and oil/water/fuel pumps, lifters, rockers, pushrods, harmonic balancer...... etc .... think about it

Agreed, I went tubular uppers and lowers and the thing is awesome, hardest thing is finding a decent pitman arm.....whatever repco sells is shit