broken-wheel

i've taken honda's to 9k and don't care what anyone says but those things are amazing at 9k, vibrations, induction noise is awesome but my next project will be a 9k ford with carb induction there is not enough cam for a barra to spin to 9k, you either get different ratio rockers, different cam base circle or shorten the crank throw if you want to spin it to 9k, very good engines thou just not my cup of tea

yes they do, they don't paint the 7 and 8 series gold for no reason but if you're going to keep the car then it's ok, next engine will spin to 9k (not a crossflow but still a ford) so i see it at an investment, I'll always stick to a carb for these old box cars so there is not much else out there unless as you said, get the soldering iron out

no, what i found out was that previous engine was still making power at 7200RPM at 7300RPM we pulled 2 degrees and made extra 5HP so locked timing is not that good, cheap but not that good you also have the ability to pull say 2degrees per gear or if you say want to save the gearbox you can cut timing on gear change yes the MAP sensor senses load and you can interpolate the map sensor with the timing curve of the gear you're in the MSD does not advance the timing at all it can only retard hence you have to advance your dizzy to your maximum timing +2 so if your max timing is 30 degrees you advance your dizzy to 32 degrees (locked dizzy) now you start your curve by pulling 22 degrees at 900RPM (your idle speed), when you put the timing light on it it will show 10 degrees advanced at 1000 RPM, at 1500 RPM you pull 20 degrees and your timing light will show 12 degrees advanced and so on simple when you wrap your head around it

you have 2 options 1. it has 3 wires for gears 1-3 as you add 12V o them it increases gear count, then from 4 and 5 via RPM drop (programable) 2. RPM drop, when gearbox shifts it will indicate next curve (bad for peddling) it's very drag racing orientated you also have retard based on timing, let off the transpbrake and it starts retarding based on time (programable), you can also use slew where it would not let RPM accelerate more than X per min where X is your variable, has MAP timing curve as well if you want it, awesome for pops and bangs

the TFI dizzy is fixed and the 7531 MSD is fully programable, by default they come with 0 timing so you just advance the dizzy to 35degrees and pull timing with the MSD, the MSD can only pull timing. the issue with the 7 series is that it has 3 wires for 3 speeds, one curve per gear so if you don't use that feature you will need to copy one curve to all the gears

not sure but the old dizzy had a bad pickup and didn't have any chopper style dizzy's around, so had to use the msd with the TFI once you figure out how to pull timing the MSD are piece of piece, you do have a few benefits just don't get jolted by one of the 7 series ... 1amp and 40.000 volts HURT

well the MSD fixed it, had to wait a bit for the USB adapter so i can fix the ignition curves, the 7 series is a bit different, it don't have 1 ignition curve it has 3-6, one per gear either via wire switch or RPM drop so I made one good curve and copied to all the gears, set max gears to 2 and she is good now has a little valve noise, unleaded head, haven't used valve saver for 10.000km 2:20 is good at Mnt Rama, I got to 1:1.34 around the QR sprint track in an X series, wasn't easy but they are light and can outbrake 80% of the cars, i reckon with a set of good 245 R888 in the rear it would of gone faster, i was using 270's never got them hot enough and the front springs were never what Kmac was told to make

Because by mid winter this engine will run 11's the dizzy leads and coil were original items, from 83...

i think the foam perishes with time and it becomes loose? they were built in the early 80's wast thinking of taking it out and putting a 12V hair driver but the meh ... the weight of the box is not that much

been chasing a fix for this for a while without taking the whole dash out tested vacuum switch in centre console and works fine, heat works as expected, fan works as expected, all the buttons/sliders work as expected but when you throw the slider to the right to heat the windscreen you can hear the fan going but there is no air coming from anywhere .... is there a way to fix this without taking the dash out ?

fixed, thanks! wasn't that hard once I took more photos and got my way around it, I'm going to glue it tomorrow or maybe put a self tapper in there but for now it's clipped back and and working as expected ordered some dash lights as I noticed one was out, thanks again

they do boot lids afaik but the stock boot lid is light as hell but guaranteed to rust ...

Thanks, I'll drop the steering wheel and drop the dash methinks. Ive taken the two 10mm bolts out from the bottom of the console, i think there are only one on each side top of the kick panels yes? and the ones across the top near the windscreen ? Do I need to do anything about the handbrake cable ?

so it's dash out? or you reckon I can clip it back in? is it the bit that goes to the foot well that needs to be pushed up and to the right to clip in that hole ? found a pic, I guess that is what it should look like? anyone got some pics of where the clips are?

Been doing some googling and came to one of your posts the circled vent at the top, is that the one that goes all the way to the footwell? because it seems that's the one that's loose

Ok so i went under the dash and had a look, can't see much but took some photos as i can wield the camera better than my head This photo is taken from the hand brake level from drivers towards passenger side behind the dash This photo is of the black box at the drivers left foot, not sure what this is meant to do, it does have a vacuum line to it, i guess is for the footwell heater? anyway its loose and only rests on the handbrake umbrella lever everything behind there is super clean (relative to age of car) so I'm confident to stick my hands in there and do whatever needs to be done to clip the thing back on if it looks unclipped

i want something that looks stock, i think the guys who did the bonnet are working on guards .... i think they do boot lids too

ok i'll do some warm up stretches an try to get under there tonight ...

so is there a picture of something I can have a look at so I know what I'm meant to clip in? also since the dash is in pieces, can I put it all back together and remove the whole dash as a unit down the track if I can't reach hose clips ?

Ok so I crawled under and you're right, it blows onto the steering column or there abouts when I set it to windscreen, a lot of air. So is it a dash out job or can it be fixed by practicing some gymnastics? I tried to get my head under there to have a look but I think i need to do some stretching beforehand and maybe some cues to what I'm looking for, all I seen was plastic and the under carpet

where do you get the EST plug from? I got two of them but never found the plug at wreckers, it's always cut/missing

I think from EB2 upwards, if it's a flat flange diff then it's most likely a 28 spline 4 pinion and you get the better brakes as most 9" were drum. Use the wagon or ute for leaf spring DANA is making a lot of gears for them now, have a look on eBay

do you really need a 9" these days if you make less then 600hp? the BW 4 pinion have proven to be quite reliable, unless you make tons of torque and by that i mean more than 400ci making 1.3hp per cube methinks the 4 pinion BW would be a) more economical chew less power c) quieter

yup there is a round vac plug, tested it and looks ok, no hissing or anything and no split hoses in sight i did notice behind the radio there was a T piece in a black vacuum line with one of the ends blocked with a screw so not sure whats going on there

Tanks! I'll have a look tonight when I get home. The centre console and glove box and under the steering wheel is off already so should be easy to look, I'll get back to you sometimes tonight when I have a look