broken-wheel

Nothing wrong with opening up the ports on the 4bbl manifold if the engine needs it. The 4bbl manifold was probably made for a small 4bbl to keep the airflow high but with a 1.8" valve the curtain outflows the aussie speed 4bbl port by a long shot, enough to choke a 350HP motor, 1mm of porting is enough to liberate quite a bit of flow. Port matching on an flow is stupid, the ports from the face of the head to the vale are so bloody long that even 2-3mm makes fuck all difference. The aussie speed 4bbl manifolds are not as great as one might think. They are essentially a 2bbl manifold with a flange and a bit of sculpting of the flange to the manifold to make it fit. It's way small for a the requirement of a 4bbl carb, say 650 or 700 but if you're planning to keep it under 5.5k then don't touch the manifold and don't go 4bbl, keep it 2bbl and save money

I'll jump in here and say this, don't bother with EFI heads, the chambers are too small. If you want to make a snappy and very drivable xflow you need to start with a set of pistons with the smallest dish possible and use the unmarked head as it has the biggest chamber and still have some squish for good recovery. This will net quite a bit more torque than the same compression ratio with those big dish pistons and EFI heads. It will also require less timing and make a way more efficient engine. I quite like the unmarked heads and the E2 heads. I would use the unmarked heads for Premium Unleaded and the E2 head for E85 with flat tops. Don't waste money on rods or anything else if you don't spin it astroturfing 6k. Good luck with the build!

Radius rod bushes I would go spherical bearing! they make a huge improvement in handling an feel. You really have to try a really hard bush in the radius rods, makes no difference to comfort at all

the comfortable setup has 0% to do with bushes, one of the most comfortable street cars I been in had full rose joint suspension, the comfort comes from the spring/damper combo

my guess is vapour lock in the carb/pump, as soon as you turn it off and leave it for a bit the heat gets to it ... time for an electric fuel pump away from the engine bay mate

I used power steering fluid in my T5z (XR8 AU) and never gave me grief, done over 60k and used to change the fluid every 20.000 or track day, yes I drove the thing hard and shifting was fine, sometimes 3rd was meh but that was probably me I used the Royal Purple Max something power steering fluid

so you can't adjust a set of Koni or Bilstein? for adjustability I would probably go for Bilstein but why do you need to adjust it? if you match the damper tot the spring are you really a racing driver to adjust your suspension every day/week? because if you are then you should have a few set of springs and change them according to the track/road you're on and re-valve the dampers to match adjustable coilers are good for a brochure ... if you don't believe me buy a set and tell me how many times you adjust them in a year ....not many I can tell you that much. The money you spend on good set of Bilsteins dampers matched to your springs will out handle and outlast ANY coilovers of the same value, that is a fact. Unless you're a pro driver, circuit or drag strip value for money can't be beaten when it comes to good quality dampers vs chinese YumCha coilovers, hell costs bout $300 to corner weight you car, send the data to King Springs get the springs, send the data and spring rate to a Bilstein dealer and have them build a set for those specs, install and for the next 10-15 years you will only have to service the damper once and nothing in that price range is available in coilovers ... but what do I know ... The chinese coilovers are utter junk and pedders are chinese rebadged/painted pieces of shit, so are the taiwanese (they do have better anodising on the aluminium parts) and so are the TEIN crap from japan The only coilovers that are worth the money imho are https://fortune-auto.com/coilovers/dreadnoughtpro2way/ with the Swift springs, dollar for dollar in coilover world nothing touches them

why coilers over just a damper upgrade like a Koni or Bilstein ? you know 4 Bilstein dampers will be cheaper and make your car handle better than the same price coilers right ? also the rear ones you can fit ourself in 30min so you only have to outlay some $ for the install of the front ones

I had the DBA golds vented and drilled and they cracked with ferodo ds2500 pads, twice! these were the pads and rotors recommended by Brake Plus for my old EF XR6, they replace the disks and pads free, twice then they cracked again and they gave me a refund and told me to fuck off, went to stock disks and the same pads and never had issues around Nebo and Tambo

you'd be buying debt right there .... save and do it once, do it right 6boost turbo manifold, BA Garret Turbo and the hot side is done, the XG intake is very nice for a turbo application, get the bottom end sorted and it will cost you under 5k to go turbo properly, else you will put your foot through it and you will cry that eBay exhaust manifold is crap, probably $100, the turbo is a knock off, probably another $150 ... you'd be buying debt

you using rubber grommets ? coming along nicely!

by the time you ship them and rebuild them you're probably in new head territory

i like the taller gears in the gearbox and shorter diff, for the single rail the 3.27 diff is a good compromise, the 3.45 is tits with a mild crossy, a 300hp crossy with a small 4bbl single rail and 3.45 is a fucking weapon on the street, they are light, you can get them down to 1300 inc driver with a manual

180rwkw is nice but NA can make that quite easily, if you go Turbo you might as well aim for at least 300rwkw or just drop a cleveland in and enjoy

with the XR6 turbocharger on the xflow they are worth more than 500RPM in low boost goodness so is $$$ yeah, but I have seen them cheaper from time to time, under 1k

get Kyle from 6boost to make you one

then buy one of the new black 750 carbs and be done with it

fuck the Garret or Chinese ... HX40 for the win, cheap, spools plenty fast, costs under $100 to rebuild and will outlast any Garret or the coke can Chinese ones

the I6 is more suited to turbo, long stoke with bucket loads of torque down low and the right airflow for a turbo application but a roots blower is cool too, specially with a cam and carb on top, sometimes the silly things make you grin more than the general concensus

Here is a really low drop done properly with NO binding this low bump stops cut half, has 3" clearance, too low for my liking but does not bind or hit the bump stops with Kmac 650 pound springs, under heavy brake it does not hit the bump stops at this level of low the LCA is not parallel to the ground so you are loosing a little handling hence I'm putting in new springs to raise it to parallel

I found with boats that sometimes they use dissimilar metals and dry ice works really well, freeze the broken bolt then hit it with a blow torch while turning it gets most corroded shit undone quickly

So today i pulled the car out of storage and wanted to drive it a bit. Fuel about 8 months old but started fine with some fresh fuel in carb. Idled fine after took it out and after a few min it died. Has fuel weak spark, let it cool down and starts right up, once engine hot i put the timing light on it to check timing, solid 12 at idle then warms up and i was loosing spark again. This is the old carb without EST with the chopper wheel dizzy. Haven't taken the cover off the side of the dizzy to look yet but it's normally the module or coil? This one car that I don't want to modify with any after market ignition or parts ...

get the F1220P then, it has a very good shape and requires very little undercut, it might be cheaper to "adapt" than the Clevo valve, when I looked at the Clevo one the F1220P looked better to me

I cut down the F1220P to 1.9 works well with the chev 1.6 exhaust

I've seen that 4L motor in a LJ with dual carbs and some cams, it was insane, revved to 9k with exhaust crackle on overrun car's been running great with the msd now, building a C4 for it, waiting for a new Belleville spring