broken-wheel

Nice! you got the MoTeC system exhaust?

Same same! Here is mine, pulled it out of storage after about 13 months ... first start don't mind the bottom end knock, she'll be right

Bore Size: 3.7in Stroke: 3.91in Minimum Port c/s Area = (bore2 x stroke x RPM) ÷ 190,000 Area = (13.96 x 3.9 x 7,500) ÷ 190,000 = 2.14 square inches so you'd need at least 2.1" of CSA on the head to fully support the motor, simple math really and 2.1" hole is not exactly small unless one can find a way to compress air without a turbine.....so you'd need 55mm ITB's that's pending you can spin and make power at 7500, if you can't spin it that far then the port will obviously be a lot smaller but 2" hole is given

I use the https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/crt-p4070/overview pump mounted to the chassis rail below the fuel tank, you don't need more than 72GPH but if you think you do there is a 100GPH, you don't need a rule reg as it's internally regulated so it cuts all the complexity of a carb fuel system, keep it close to the tank and below the tank and you'll be ok. I tried it in the boot and worked fine as well but on startup it made a few noises which I didn't like for about 2 sec, under the fuel tank it never made those noises on start up. Fuel pump does not heat up fuel much, if you run it at the back of the car by the time the fuel reaches the carb it would be cooled to ambient temp via the fuel line. It comes with rubber mounts so it's quiet but does have a little hum from outside, meh it's sounds cool thou when you throw the switch. It needs no return line etc. Imho you'll be hard to beat it on price/performance/ease of install etc. Got it in 2015, no issues so far, mine came with NTP to barb wire so you can cut the fuel lines and plumb it in-line with rubber hose

yup but you can listen to others and go through belts and flywheels like crazy, on a manual i'd aim for 10thou

yeah less than .5mm

I'd go for 15thou max but good luck finding one that's not flogged out to 3mm, some at the wreckers have 5mm

yeah it was the late EF's early EL's, the fixed it in the later ones, I'll try and get a part number on the right cranks but you can just use a big screwdriver to test the float, trust me it's not easy to find a non fucked one

be careful with EF cranks, out of 5-6 only was was ok for me, i have a few in the garage that are fucked, check crank end float before you take it out of the motor or buy it as the first EF's had major issues with the thrust bearings eating cranks and ford were changing cranks on daily basis

when it comes to valve train this are my go to parts and i have never had any fail Rockers: Comp 1830-16, Lifters: Isky SO382-H or Crower cool face both items are bulletproof and have never seen them fail, both are steel and not the lightest around but they will serve you well, I never liked alloy rockers with flat tappets or solid roller

imho the first part I would spend money on an XFLOW would be the following: Exhaust, Ignition (MSD with XF dizzy), cam and here are the reasons Exhaust, this is really bad on a stock car, the tailpipe is smaller than the carb, i think it's the same size as 1 carb throat and there are two, you can pick up around 35hp with a good exhaust with nothing else but you will have to up the jets on the carb, if you put a 2.5" exhaust with headers you would think the car is worse than before, flatspot on take off and just not as much torque but this is because it now runs lean, you need to check and will find out that you need quite a bit more fuel, once this is done she will fry the rear end on take offs...from the exhaust alone Ignition, this is another weak point, the chopper wheel dizzy has more play than the other and it's not very stable, the MSD makes the engine come alive, much smoother to rev and more drivable overall Cam, the stock cam and lifters are made of cheese, they wear out extremely quick and give you a nice lumpy cam sound/feel but robs a lot of power and will eventually bend pushrods. Isky or Crower lifters are good, would not buy anything else

yeah it's locked, if it's a manual it won't matter, if auto with a good stall same same, if you're rally after a good ignition then get the MSD programable and don't look back

everything nason make is utter rubbish the XE locked dizzy is a good place to start i guess, find an old one and re-bush it, most don't even need it

seen the shity brand on that box and though they were lifters, carry on

those lifters are crap specially for a solid lifter but if you're gong to flip it then don't drive it more than 5k

don't be scared to go bigger valve as those valves have quite a thick stem see below with 1.9"

those middle ones get close to the edge when they corrode which they do

so you're going screw in studs? good man! I use the Clevo ones, i just cut them in half and they don't move, never looked further but I seen some use some laser/water jet cut ones around here

Now take them to Gilbert's P. & A. Cylinder Head Service and get them cut, I've used them a few times and they did a very good job, much better than the rubbish you get in Brisbane

yes, drill out the BA XR6 Turbo 5 speed to suit the crossflow, they are quite light and cheap

yeah I run their bonnet, the quality is good, quite light as well I might add and nobody can tell the difference unless they touch it, was going to get the boot lid but the lid is light anyway, so are the guards so no point getting them but the bonnet ...I was dealing with Michelle there and had no problems, would highly recommend them, that's like a secret weapon on weight saving (glass bonnet), i bet it's .15 of a sec over the quarter mile

ute's are heavier so would not use one of those even non rusted buckets XE's are over 5k now, how many of them have you seen on carsales? the price of XE's are rocketing up this year, i have 2 and feel bad gutting one of them, the other I'm keeping stock, should of kept stock the beige one as it only had 140k

i run the 6>2>3>1 as long as the exhaust is free flowing and it's not much smaller than the port then you're all good, as soon as the exhaust goes past the valve it starts to cool and reduce in volume so yeah, if the face of the head where the exhaust manifold bolts is say 1.8" then making the headers bigger will not net you more power pending there is no other restrictions. If you run NOS then yeah you need big exhaust I got my XE down to 1210kg with me in it. If it's purely a drag car and 2 seater you can get it down to 1150kg. You don't need a lot of shit for a drag car like sway bars, wind up mechanisms, heater cores, air con, power steering, fuel tank, alternator, then replace battery with LiIon and bring a charger with you, no alternator too, alloy tail shaft, take about 1.5kg out of the diff, replace seats with light buckets (i use pro2000's seats and they are 16kg for the pair), remove and throw away battery tray and replace horn with cheap light one, replace steering column with aftermarket alloy one, replace lower and upper trailing arms with make your self rose jointed ones, they are adjustable so you can preload from the trailing arms (as you should) not from the sway bar (as most think they have to do), replace heavy steering wheel too, 1kg here, remove centre console and gut the rear doors and all sound deadening and front reo bar. Go and axe off the tow hooks etc. it's really easy to pull over 100kg out of an XE I got my old XF with me in it down to 1280kg and it had a 6 point roll cage and that was a circuit car, imagine the freedom you have with drag racing!

you realise the big bore extractors are useless unless you feed it some No2 right? and i believe they don't come with the final collector before you spend a lot of money on useless big bore extractors watch this:

400 HP though an unported aussiespeed 4bbl? that I do want to see. If you don't open up the manifold by about 2mm you will have to ring the living daylight out of the engine to overcome the flow restriction. I have build a few engines with the manifold and for a 350hp motor it will be ok, it will pull vacuum at 7.2k with a 750 carb, open it up and it will make more power and no more vacuum but do show us he 400HP engine with unported aussie speed dyno, you can keep the rest of the combo secret, all i want to see is the numbers and MAP readings at over 7k