broken-wheel

problem with GT Wheel is that 99% are fakes who are so unbalanced you need like over 150 grams to get them balanced with good rubber genuine are 8 1/2 inches wide, fake are 8 inches wide, I also like the CSA Gladiator wheel more

which is funny because the Jag used the same M90 blower and made the Berlina look pedestrian and weighted more than the Berlina ... keep in mind that both the holden and ford camp protected the V8's as much as they could from their 6 cyl counter parts

well I could go with a TD04 turbo hand have instant boost or even with a twin scroll and loose the burble and have best of both worlds, what I'm saying is that with a 20 year old turbo the damn thing is still fine, it starts to make boost under 3k which is nice, 1.2bar at 3.8k is mental for every day driving hell i can turn the AVC off and pot around town at spring pressure which is 8psi and still faster and less laggy than most 2L econo boxes. Keep in mind that if there is load like going up hill or a heavier car boost comes in a lot quicker! on a slight downhill road I can't even hit .8 bar of boost in 1st gear at redline so with a heavier car then making boost becomes easier The reason rear mounts are not popular today is because they are not efficient compared to the turbo's that are essentially bolted to the head now with literally no manifold so they can have a cat converter almost built into the exhaust housing of the turbo, with an older car you essentially replace the tail muffler with a turbo and have oil pump to keep it lubed up, very cheap when you consider the cost of a manifold made for it that's not made in china out of recycled pepsi cans. People have this stupid idea of: ohh it's a Turbo it must have 500HP, oh it's a 2JZ it must have 800HP, oh it's a Barra it should have 1000HP but most of those wouldn't drive such car daily or actually own one! My MK6 GTI can push you in the seat with all it's 170kw, it breaks traction from 1800rpm...and if I get a flat brim and only floor it to 3k around town the flat brim will believe it's a 400hp car

yeah, a J pipe mani would be enough for 400hp out of an xflow even with a junk HX35 turbo with you can probably get for under 1k from US

tune it first then if you're not happy go further

nah they are universal, I use a CompCams one, if the engine is in the car it's pretty hard to degree a camshaft unless you take the rad out!?

i wouldn't not touch anything from him, i'd go to Camtech and say I want a turbo cam that will rev a crossflow to 6k please if solid or 5.5k if hyd

actually a lot of those points aren't true ... take Stella for example (Version 6 STI) she is a 2L Turbo with a pretty big turbo, VF28 which is apparently quite laggy, now I have an APS front mount and keep in mind the intake is on the back of the engine, this was good for a top mount intercooler but with a front mount you have to run very long pipes and APS has these silicone pipes and they are LONG! on both sides, if I look at the distance in the pipes it's at least 3.5 meters if not more if you take into account the front mount, I make boost at 2.8k and 1.2 bar by 3.8k, I don't really see much lag as the car is quite light for a 2L, it's 1270kg and she is a manual. Once on boost it screams to 8k and I don't feel any lag at all, I think a rear mount would be quite lag free with a crossflow mainly because of the torque, keep in mind it can't be less torquey than stock! stock they breath through a tiny carb and even smaller exhaust so with 3.45 gears you will not feel any lag

why a 6 speed? those gearboxes are quite big for a classic car and probably requires metal sheet working and custom mounts and custom tailshafts.... the 250 crossflow comes with both toploader and T5 bellhousing patterns as well as C4 with alloy head and alloy water pump/timing cover the 250 crossflow is not a bad little engine, most can make 300HP quite easily and that's moving in a Mustang! would definitely make the small V8 cry like a baby

for the money it costs for a blower setup you can install a mild AU turbo or BA turbo motor and make more power, better fuel economy and reliability, yes the torque won't be that instant but it's cheaper to buy and install a 460ci big block in an E series than a blower! you can pickup decent running 460ci's from many places for way under 5k, add exhaust and mounts and you can get the whole thing done for under 7k and have one of the most reliable, unstressed ford V8's ever made, the 460BB just purrs along with gobs of torque, add heads and cam and it's a different story but before I'd waste money in supercharging a crossflow I'd put in 460BB then down the road you can stroke it to 520ci and not tell anyone about it, hell tell everyone it's a 427ci

I'm interested as I'm in QLD

isn't the M90 a little on the small side for 4L ? I thought the M112 would be a better choice but M90's are cheap and plenty which is probably why I just answered my own question, they're a little on the small side but good availability and much cheapness

oil pressure sensor is right at the back so you know if the PSI per 1k rpm is not enough .... but never seen issues with oiling in crossflows

normally you would run a drill through the oil gallery all he way to the back of it, most machine shops have this stupid long drill bit thing, they do it when they do a line bore this will ensure the oil gallery is the same size from front to back but I guess he is old school and you NEVER want to argue with grumpy old men or tell them EFI or programable ignition is better build seems to be coming along nicely! what guide plates did you end up using? cut down clevo ones?

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3 EXH - ARP 435-2101 CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001 FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302 SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901 ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1 Mains I reused stock, never failed on me, with a girdle I use the 300CI studs, they come in a pack for the US 300ci 6 cyl

PLR do ok work and so does Jack Brothers, actually I'm yet to find someone better than Jack Brothers in Brisbane, maybe mendham engineering but they are expensive. If you need to send parts half way across the country to get it machined properly do it! machining is 90% of reliability

cheapest one as you'll put new rods/piston and valves, if you do buy a "genuine turbo motor" you'll pay more than you'd pay for a forged self built bottom end motor with good valves and springs etc you can paint the rocker cover any color you want but it's insane the price they ask for a turbo motor ...

The Barra is king! No shit, anyone who tells you they can get more power out of ANY 6cyl engine for a dollar figure is dreaming or never looked at the Barra engine. Ford learned almost 40 years on how to make the damn thing bulletproof and with a few thousands you can get a taxi $300 engine to take 1000 hp. The crossflow will sound nicer thou and you'll see, it will be cranky and more characterful than the Barra but won't be as reliable or powerful. Crossflows with big cams are like hookers....

agreed, he also likes to keep some things for himself and sometimes talks about high level stuff as if anyone can understand him (Vizard) but the man knows quite a bit, I remember the camshaft challenge where he picked the lift, duration, ramp rate just by looking at the engine bore/stroke and head flow/configuration and was within a few HP of what a professional camshaft engineer got! He's a bit of a grimy old man but worth paying some money to read his ramblings I only got burned by backyard head specialists once to the tune of $400 and never again! that $400 extra for porting did absolutely noting but slightly port match the intake to the head, there were no burr marks then the head porter said "if you want proper porting mate it's from 5k upwards" I walked away, bought a book and a dremel tool, used blue die and a vacuum cleaning sucking ballbearings through the port to see it takes the die off to better understand flow. I say this again ..... you can easily make the crossflow head to flow way past 450HP and it will be quiet BUT in order to make 430HP out of it so you can utilise the head flow you will have to spin it past the point where the piston speed is dangerous. Nobody wants to go 5000 Ft/min on piston speed because when it blows up they will come on the forums and blame the builder blah blah I like the crossflow engines and imho once you get over 350HP shit will break and will cost a bomb to make it live. At a quarter of the price you can go Barra forced fed never look back. There is no way you're going to build a crossflow for under 10k which will run 11's and last a season which is about 50 passes. And if you do build one that lasts 50 passes (road km's mean nothing here) and run's 11 then you'd run 9's with a Turbo Barra on the same money. I for one don't like to even entertain the idea of getting anyone to do "performance" work on something that is not feasible from an engineering perspective but hey you can dig a hole with an escalator or you can dig a hole with a toothpick. Whatever floats you boat Matt, that remark wasn't launched at you

and after 14pages of typical xflow opinionated posts I bet nobody actually took the time to read the cylinder head porting bible ... David Vizard's How to Port & Flow Test Cylinder Heads (S-A Design ... It only shows how every 3 toothed bogan on ice can talk for years about cylinder head porting but never spent 2 days to read a book explaining pretty much everything one might need to know before opening their mouth and preaching some other idiot's ideas as gospel. It all comes down to brains, would rather spend 3k on porting by a "pro" rather than spending a few bucks on a book, reading it then going to a cylinder head porter and say "here is exactly what I want, can you deliver these numbers for this much $ or not?" that's the difference between an engineer's brain vs 99% people here

I use http://www.gasoila.com/products/pipe-thread-sealants/gasoila-hard-set-thread-sealant.html to reshape the port, works well with E85 and not affected by it

should be on Alibaba by tomorrow

you don't need a tac, it only scares you

yup 3" off the shelf HM55, cut it right after the last weld and weld in a cone to 3", 850cm from the cone bolt a 3" hooker and a tail pipe job done, anything more will cost a truckload of money for very little more power make sure they don't weld the tail pipe to the muffler and that they keep the muffler located if you decide to unbolt the tail pipe so you can easily unbolt it and bold in a short 30degree elbow if the track allows you, the sound alone is worth it

never taken an unregistered car there but I might have to use a trailer as this thing only has 1 or 2 runs left before it's big end lets go my guess is if it passes scrpteneering it's gold