broken-wheel

Hey Ando, Sorry to drag this from the grave but ATI has a solution, http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/damperparts/trigger-shells.htm You will need a mag pickup and it should work fine, order the one with 6 rib serpentine and change the pulley or use an EF (higher amps) alternator and no more flying belts. With your EST did you only use the violet wire on the msd to green on the EST, red EST to ACC ON and Black EST to earth? I always used the white from MSD on the TFI PIP but the TFI module is coming apart, the bush is fucked and I'm trying an EST now. Not quite sure if the Violet wire gives better signal than the white

how did you find them? I found the stopping power is the same but with fuckloads more control as in it won't lock up and slide, very progressive with the PBR

but the chev will never sound like a clevo at full tilt! i heard one in a DeTomaso with weber ITB's and almost creamed myself, that sound is forever burned in my memory

the cleveland only has two oil galleries so basically it from the pump it goes to the first mains then the lifters, after the lifters get their oil THEN the rest of the mains get their share, the hose to the back of the block feeds the mains from both sides, in essence it will work up to about 7000 rpm where the sump will be dry in seconds anyway if you only plan to spin it to 5.5k then just half a litre more should be ok and she will love you long time, but if you flare to 6-7k for longer than 4 sec or there about you will throw a rod the stock clevo sump is the piece of shit that the xflow is as well, when you take off in a hurry half oil goes to the back of the motor you know you will throw a rod in the clevo when you rev it past 6k and suddenly has fuckloads of power to 7000 rpm, probably because there is no load from the oil pump, then you decelerate and BANG! there goes the rod through the side of the block! you always feel this extra power up in the rev range before it goes bang

with gears normally you turn the input shaft one turn and count the output shaft rotations, this is without opening the box where you start counting teeth

Hi Ando, If you're going to give it a flogging then please look at http://wydendorfmachine.com/kitb.html?kitid=2 This will fix 90% of the problems with the clevo. I know its a bit of $ but you can just get the bushes and have a machine shop fit them cheaper than buying the reamer. I'm about to order one for myself as I have two clevo blocks here waiting to be built. This is Ford fixed it in the 70's albeit quietly. I can go on and on about the oiling system for the Clevo but the pipe to the back of the motor it's just a half ass fix which doesn't actually do much except show that you have oil pressure, it's basically bypassing the whole oiling system and showing it straight into the oil pressure sender. I have never seen a clevo with a broken rod at the back of the motor and I doubt you have either! it's always in the middle and the bearings will always have the same scorch marks on them due to lack of oil when revved past 7k. With a HV oil pump they just fill the heads and empty the sump faster. Another thing you want to do is drill a hole in the water jacket at the back of both heads and feed it into the cooling system at the front like so: This will stop hot pockets of steam piling up there

I actually own a DC2 and I think you're very very wrong there, the DC2 is a sweet little car, it's docile and so smooth around town with amazing fuel economy but turn it over 5000 and the thing comes alive in your hands, I'm doing a lot of Mnt Nebo runs in this thing and it's simply astounding how good it is and how it keeps up with the rest of the PF crew, the twister the mountain roads the bigger the rewards, no falcon will ever beat it up and down the mountain... PERIOD Steering is sharp, chassis is amazing for a 15 year old car, motor is probably one of the sweetest 4 pots japan ever produced, brakes are nice and progressive and endless...dude you need to drive one! the B18cX motor is fucking amazing piece of engineering and nice to see another clevo being built! i need to start building mine soon as well

agreed, 1.5 is a lot to ask for the bottom end but 1.3 is enough to wake it up and hold together, I think the notion of using a big carb and chasing revs is the problem, if you're not into drag racing then a T5 with 3.45 or 3.7 gears and just a good valve job and very minor porting on a aussie speed with a 600 vac carb would smoke the rears everywhere and put a lot of cars to shame, use the gears instead of raising the revs and you've got a tree stump puller that will love you long time ando, the stock port orifice (not the whole port just the orifice, i used a pipe with the same diameter) flowed 249 with out any aids (plasticine/flared ends) 227@550@28" is what I got up to, i expect to get 235@600 from 300 to 400 lift there is a gain of over 30cfm so it's obviously stalling after that a little i had a 30degree back cut on the valve, might put a radius on that on the stem side and see if it makes a difference, there are good gains to be had right behind the seat, hard to explain but if you look at the type r DC2 motor youtube video you'll see where the japs polished behind the seat, that was 5cfm also the E2 stamped heads are better flowing than the C2 if you only lay back the chamber a little around the intake valve, i know it goes agains the grain but yeah the chamber design is quite good problem with the aussie speed manifold is that it has ok distribution but shit flow potential which is not their problem really it's a design flaw, the plenum is quite big in order to make the distribution ok, the problem is the fuel suspension really suffers and drops off by the time it his the port at low RPM so it will be a pig, now add reversion and air being sucked from other cylinders due to the overlap of a big cam and you quickly get a very cranky engine at anything under 2500 rpm, it will get OK by 3000 rpm and run out of steam at 5500 rpm so you really have 2500 rpm of usage. add 6 trumpets and you can really crank lift and overlap without any problems, other thing is everybody knows IDA's and DCOE's love timing!

i only got to about 351hp (yeah weird number) at .550 lift but that was with a close to 1.9" valve, biggest I can fit before it kisses the exhaust valve but I'm not a head porter, i just tried what I have seen, again most of the time it's all in the valve job rather than porting, sometimes I cannot stress enough how much a good valve job makes a difference. I started to stall at around 340HP @.550 lift and go backwards at .600 lift but a new seat profile pushed it to 351hp at .550 and 350@ .600 lift, i can't get more flow past .600 but one of the best guys in the country is going to share some info with me soon, basically once you get past 600 lift chamber and cyl wall shrouding becomes critical all other things being equal, anyhow it's all pointless as most manifolds don't flow that you should be able to make 1.3hp per cubic inch or else you're not even trying, 1.5hp per cubic inch can be achievable on a crossy then use pipemax and see what you gain from cross sectional area and valve surface area

ignore the valve guide, normally I pull press it out and take everything off then press it back it and use the valve guide as a set point for measurements, this is how I copy one port to the other with an internal calliper I'd cut the head so you get two cylinders so you get 3 lots of 2 to play with. Only play with one of the two! and try different things then take them to a flow bench and see how well you've done, you'll find that the boss around the guide has fuck all restriction hence I don't waste time I just press it out and cut the boss out, you can then taper the valve guide if you want, again i found less than .5 CFM there so it's not worth the time. Do not go to the gasket anywhere! cut the gasket to match. This is one thing where everybody who don't have a clue fuck up, never port match to gasket! port match is between the head and the manifold, intake or exhaust, the gasket is 1mm makes no difference, if you're anal you can epoxy in the rest where the gasket don't match so you have very good transition but in reality you will never get the intake manifold (4bbl or 2bbl) to outflow a good xflow head. remember, it's easy to take metal away and hard to put it back, you can Tig it back on an start again but yeah ...

EF/EL/AU same guts inside the centre if not IRS, never looked at IRS

before you go further buy some inside callipers and start taking measurements, don't be scared to open up below the seat a little and don't try and make air flow go where you want it to go! use blueing ink and paint the ports then vacuum some media though the port and see where it hits the blueing ink at different valve openings, you will be surprised how well the standard head flows if you only touch a few things in the throat. Don't lay back the short turn, it will stall the air massively instead take quite a bit from the bellow the seat. Hard to explain but you're aiming for the throat to be like a hour glass. Don't open up anything from the bowl to the manifold, it's enough to flow 350hp, in fact don't touch that side of the port, don't even "polish" it. You can get the stock head to flow 300hp with just a little pocket work and a really good seat. I know it's hard not making it look good but don't touch anything from the pocket to the face of the intake manifold, that part of the port has a weird shape as it bends, don't try and straighten it as the flow will separate and it will start howling at anything over 400 lift. Good luck!

get some Koni's, the price will be forgotten in the first 5km

I run 40thou under and it's fine, this is on a 4MA

add this to the price list, you won't regret it: http://wydendorfmachine.com/kitb.html?kitid=2 order about 5 sets of bushes thou and charge friends $150 per set to recoup the money there is not much to matching a clev, if you're running big valves make sure they notch the deck but most machinists know