Odie

My fuel pump is no longer starting when you operate the ignition. The pump works fine if you hot wire it. Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for it? Troubleshooting so far: I had a flat battery caused by a door lamp operating 24/7 due to a broken switch (must fix that). The car was running really well before the flat battery. I charged the battery up (neg batt terminal disconnected while charging) and then tried to start the car - did not hear the fuel pump operate - car no start I took the fuel pump out - was in surprisingly good condition. Operates when connected to a battery - no issues there (drained the tank varnish while I was in there) I turned to the pump relay under the dash near the brake booster. There is no power coming to the relay on the signal wire when I operate the ignition (I can operate the pump manually when I put 12v to the pump wires - that side of the relay has constant 12v to it). The Gregory's manual says to check that the fuel pump fuse is serviceable (pg94). I can't find a fuel pump fuse anywhere. I've looked under the steering column and all fuses are good (most are lights, instruments etc - One 10a fuse is call engine and it's fine. There are 2 barrel fuses coming off the +ive battery terminal and they are fine also. Any suggestions?

OK - fuel pump now running though not sure why. I removed every relay and connector I could find between the battery and brake booster and gave their contacts a thorough clean even though they didn't look too bad. I never found a fuel pump fuse but did find a small green module plugged into a yellow harness tucked below the relays beside the brake booster - It was marked as a 4.7ohm resistor. I pulled it and cleaned it's connections as well. Thanks for the comments - they helped me confirm there's no obvious fuse in the engine bay.

Has anyone work out how the premium radio is wired so it can be used without the factory amplifier? My amp has a dead channel so I'm trying to replace it with a modern lighter and more powerful amp with bluetooth music connectivity. I've pulled the amp apart and stripped back the round black DIN plug at the amp end. The black din cable is shielded and has a grey cable inside it. I've spent the morning on this and am not confident I've got the wiring and voltages required right. The 'easy' bit: That grey cable is your low power audio channels and it has shielded tiny red, white, green and blue wires. I can solder those wires and shielding to RCA plugs so they plug into my amp RCA's. The 'hard bit: The head unit needs power from the amp in order for the head unit to turn on. The amplifier also needs power from the head unit for it to turn it on. I'm not sure if these triggers are supposed to be 12v or a reduced voltage (this question will become clearer later). By pulling the amp apart I worked out that the pink and orange wires are joined into one circuit on the circuit board when they enter the amp. The amp sends power to both these wires. If I feed 12v to one or both of these wires with the head unit earth wire attached to the battery then the head unit equaliser and tape deck (not tuner) power up. When the head unit is powered up with 12v it then feeds 12v back down the yellow wire. If I put 12v to the yellow wire to the disconnected amp which has power and ground to its own power cable then both relays in that amp click closed so I assume it powers up. At this point if I test the voltage at the orange and pink wire outputs from the amp back toward the head unit they measure just 1.76v. I don't know if this is because my amp is damaged or if it is supposed to only send low voltage up the pink and orange wires to trigger the head unit. The display for the tuner on the head unit never lights up. The tuner will click when you connect the yellow or red power wires to power but it still won't light up. So.... has anyone had success using the premium head unit with a different amp?