408WPN

Hey Guy's Over time finding this page very useful, older car scenario, always gonna be something breaking, replacing & repairing. Bloody frigging airshocks now, not holding air & went down pretty rapidly, so would I be right in thinking it's more the struts are buggered than the actual air line leaking somewhere. Really need to get up on a hoist now somewhere to try & figure it out. Probably would prefer replacing with Munroe, the car sits quite low as is,any you guy's had much to do with suspension side of things & any advice or recommendations on shocks to get or part numbers for 1985 XF Fairmont. Cheers Andy

Thanks so much for replying Dean, yeah I was gonna give that a crack in the morning & did think wether undoing the top nut & bottom bolts then lowering the jack may work. Hopefully the springs aren't shagged, oh well to bad I'll give that ago & see how I get on.

Hey Guy's. Awesome Andy's amateur mechanical hour strikes again.. Was happy day's removing shock absorbers untill bearing in mind the one's I'm removing are Air shocks with a larger diameter circumference on the upper shock not allowing it to slide out. What's next do I drop the diff & remove the whole spring The little 10mm bolt on a sway bar coming out either side of the diff,is that what I remove? Really don't want to have to do that. Can I remove the top shock cover in the boot & pull out from above, oh god that's getting real amateur hour now. Any tips cuzzie bro's from across the ditch Cheers

Hey Bear, thanks alot. I've gone ahead & bought KYB Xcel G shocks, hopefully they go in with my current springs which i think are just lows not superlows. I did jack it up a little bit & measured the spring which was 25cm from the top to where it sits at the base, give or take a couple centimeters. Also measured bottom of the outer sill to the floor was 12cm. Few of the guys on XF FANATICS have gone with KYB on low shocks, finger's crossed I'm not on super lows, most of the modifications on my car are about 30yrs old now hence there being air shocks which apparently are a thing of the past haha . It's gonna suck if they shocks don't fit 🥴

Hey Guy's Over time finding this page very useful, older car scenario, always gonna be something breaking, replacing & repairing. Bloody frigging airshocks now, not holding air & went down pretty rapidly, so would I be right in thinking it's more the struts are buggered than the actual air line leaking somewhere. Really need to get up on a hoist now somewhere to try & figure it out. Probably would prefer replacing with Munroe, the car sits quite low as is,any you guy's had much to do with suspension side of things & any advice or recommendations on shocks to get or part numbers for 1985 XF Fairmont. Cheers Andy

Seems Air shocks are a bit archaic & out of date. Thinking now of going with Cobra lows with KYB shock absorbers

Awesome M8,thanks alot

Thanks Dean, so am I correct in thinking the oil sender is the thing screwed into the top of the engine block behind the intake manifold on 351c

Vannin,receiving over. Hey John, super old post but could you email me particulars on XG Dash cluster conversion to XF, especially on regards to fuel sender & perhaps oil sender. My car is 1985 GL, engine swap to 351c. Cheers Andy thjsandy@yahoo.com.tw

Hey Guy's What's your opinion on cutting out the highlighted area to fit a 14"K&N air cleaner. Will it necessarily effect the structural integrity of the bonnet,the above structural supports to the left & right seem to be the main supports

Yeah was deburring this morning,time was short this afternoon though. It's differently made space for the air cleaner.. It's just so ever so slightly touching the front of the scoop now underneath when I shut the bonnet. Would you think that'd be putting upwards pressure on the scoop from underneath to make the body filler come away,surely they're fastened on by more than just body filler. Hahaha shows what I know,fuk all

Ummn my skill sets were outstanding today. First couple attempts & just thought I'd leave it. Few hour's later with some subtle encouragement from a colleague on messenger

The back cross member & X support structure seems the main support. Stopped myself from cutting into it yesterday,turned to custard they're pretty hard to replace over in NZ

Not sure if new one abit over kill. Last photo original

Thanks. I won't chase it too much longer & will probably just leave it to the painter. Are looking forward to the minor restoration & interior reupholstered

Hey thanks so much for all your imput. I took door cards off today & had the previous door cards from last owner that had some subtle hints of purple in places. I'll probably check oldschool cars & posted on XF FANATICS. Also seen the firewall tags on the Australian factory XF's ,quite a big difference

Thanks alot. Here's couple photo's of my firewall tag. Most of the car in pretty good knick paint wise & are shortly getting the bonnet/ boot redone. Also doing full interior reupholstered;so taking door cards off could be a tell tale sign for sure. (not letting me upload photo's of the boot)

Looking for paint codes on my 1985 Ford Fairmont 351c. Pretty sure had a respray at some stage at the current code on firewall is CI2. Below spontaneous photo's of my car & a XE Fairmont ESP in Zircon Green (the bottom photo in the collage photo is mine,probably miles apart but hey) or pearl green in the last photo. Feel free to add in your 5c worth. Cheers from over the ditch

Hey Guy's Howz it.. Touching base to query some excessive RPM on New buy I'm in the final stages of. 87 XF Fairmont Ghia 408c, race car spec's on the new engine build, running a strong C4 trans & 8 3/4" 3.25 ratio diff but doing 4000 rpm at 100k. That kinda sounds like it sucks, what you reackon

Hi looking at Manual conversion on my XF FALCON UTE 408w. Have opportunity to purchase MUSTANG 93 T5 wc V8 gearbox. Seems alot of people prefer to go hydraulic over cable due to reliability over cheaper set up with cable. Have done quite abit of research & seems 8 out of 10 prefer hydraulic. Cable set up alot stiffer on leg etc if sitting at intersection & could be prone to stretching or snapping. Headers on my motor are Pacemaker tri-y's & hang quite low so not sure if hydraulic slave cylinder or bracket would get in the way also. Can't remember if this references hydraulic or cable but also read possible for firewall damage or pedal box twisting etc Any feedback be great thanks

Yeah #2-3 shifter location can swap around but was concerned about #1 shifter position but found dimensions of TKX and measured it out & I'm swt as. Got a good score on a XD centre console with rubber boot for $40, apparently over here just the rubber boot sells for $80 alone. It's chopped & I'm gonna have to Chop it some more but happy. It's sucks when ya press return key one too many times & loose everything that just typed out

Hey BGDAV, aren't I clever, I managed to quote my own post Hey um... did you have to change your shifter location 1 2 or 3. Hope I don't have to use #1 shifter location, it's $455 USD for a mid shifter. I'll fork out for that if I have to as want to keep my bench seat

Hey just reading over this, is the XE brake booster & brake master still OK to use, it's just clutch master needs to be a FC HOLDEN... I understand why now it's about the bloody bore size

Hi everyone Crappie raining day in Picton NZ Too much time over thinking etc Last year bought a XF ute un-certed, originally rebuilt stroked 393w, that went South. Breifly considered rebuild but for some bizzare reason had a sudden rush of blood to the head & went down the track of 408ci crate engine from Blueprint engines in USA with a 30mth warranty. Few months later all certified & on the road, happy days. Done break in as required & have also used manufacturers recommended 10w-30 mineral oil. About 6wks later checked the oil & noticed I'd used about a litre, thought, hell that's not good but put it down to, I don't know what Topped it up, kinda forgot about it, checked it again last week had used all of the top up & now discoloured. All of this & have only done about 1800km.. Jumped on another forum, some suggested try different oil grade such 20w-50 high zinc. Now down to the nitty gritty & this is where I need the advice on. I've been in touch with Blue engines & have lodged warranty file etc. They seem to think when the heads where getting assembled they've forgotten to seal the rocker stud threads & this could be the cause of the problem but 2L oil in 1800km is a bloody lot. They seem to think it's an easy fix, easy to check for, want the rocker studs removed & forward on photo's of the threads. Well it's not bloody as easy to check for is it, such as removing the studs x 16 & then torque'n them back into place, then also adding such technical terms in place such '0 lash 3/4 of a turn (((that's after bolting them back into 40 lb torque, they're also screwed in & not pressed))) Also been advised by a freind have to rotate engine so opposite cylinder is rocking when removing studs, worst case scenario if undoing it wrong, motor will go bang . Really after just dribbling on about all this,, has anyone heard if this could be the problem & why would it use so much oil. On a positive note it's note blowing blue smoke & I've got a 30mth warranty but they cover there arse's big time in the small print but have been really good so far in saying they'll look after me

Thanks so much NZ Be back to level 3 on Wednesday, so hopefully bit closer to getting it sorted