Crebe

Oh and further to that it looks like an XA or XB unit with the pump and 3 water lines on it

Hi Fordnatics. Funny thing hapened today while draining my diff oil to put in a new cover gasget. First step drain oil. Next undo bottom middle bolt to drain out oil. No oil? Empty? Use pick to check for blockeges. No blockage. The bolt hole is a blind hole? I removed the cover and the oil poured out. Cleaned up the diff and checked if an intersecting hole may have been drilled to drain the oil out but it was blocked! No other hole. I wiped the inside are of the diff above the bolt ans scratched around to find where the oil would be let out but nothing. Do any of the XA XB XC Borgwarner diffs not have drain holes?

Ya gotta laugh sometimes. I meen if you put in fluid and ya have to replace it in services, why the hell would you not put in a drain FORD! thanks for the pick of the pump. I have a few sizes but they aint gunna suck the sludge out of it, but come to think of it, I doubt a little drain hole would let it out it that thick!. Still they finally got it in the later ones ay.? All done now. Have my new pinion seal and gasget with new oil. Got my gearbox seal in the BTR auto as well to slow oil oozing out of the thing. Now its back to waiting on my alloy tank to get started so when its tacked together i can check fitment and send it back to be finished, then i can finish off the last of the fuel sutem and pray to the good of pain ans uffering that nothing leaks

Extension housing parts

I had a look and they have aftermarket i think AU217B353A. So i just put my seal in the diff for the pinion and I think I have stuffed up! I knocked it in nice and square but put it all the way in. Should i have only made it flush with the front of the diff housing, not all the way in? By the look of it the pinion yoke may not wat to go into it now. Jesus why do i think of the when its too late? HELP

Realy... got one from ford? You must have talked with an older guy to get that help. They just say to me "naah to old even Ba stuff and older". And wont even look! I looked at a zillion images and didnt find one EB. I noticed the Au and others looked alike but thought maybe wiring or dimensiones were possibly different. May i ask how much they charged for it? Mine is still working but at this stage but may be broken by the time i get it out of the way! I have to get more clearance to the floor hump/tunnel to move it and get to the housing bolt behind it. I am trying to remove the extension to put in a new bush and seal. I would say that possibly I may be able to slip it out untill I run out of room and get to the bolt. Not sure if the housing will come off with the sender not ALL the way out.

Thanks man. I spoke with an auto transmision guy today and said they are fragile and dont tighten them down tight as they crack and leak. Also he said they are not available for the EB. I have been searching all over to find out how long the section is that goes in the box as mine is in an XR ute, as in 1966 XR and the tunell is a tight fit. Not sure i will have enough room to get it out so I can get to the bolts on the extension housing and get it off to do the output shaft bush. I have tried lowering the box at the rear to get at stuff but if i cant get to the olt I wont crack the gasgett seal. May have to leave it allthough I have the seal, bush and gasgett.

Hello. I have a n EB XR8 auto im my 66 xr utr. I am trying to replace the extension housing seal and bush but cant get to some of the 4 bolts. One in perticular (right side or drivers side top) has a thingy with wires comming out of it rite in the road of where i need to get a socket onto it. It has a longish m5 or m6 bolt holding it onto the box. Anyone know what it is and can i just take the bolt out and remove it. Also is anything need to be aligned or other lose parts inside ready to escape. tried to upload a shot but as usual technoligy failed me again!

Hi there Ford fans. I have an XR ute with an XB M75 Borgy about to be removed for a M78 AU ute diff. It off course will be full reco and shortening. I was wondering if any punters have used the XA style radius / tramp rods. I have not found much else available other than Caltracs which having an aluminium front pivot will sound a lot noisy from movement and road harshness. Not interested in the old school tramp bars, bolted to the underside of the springs. Just saw someone mention CRS ? Havnt seen anything on them but will look soon. For now anyone that has been able to fit the XA GT style to the older XR XT XW XY cars that can give me some advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for the info. I am still looking for a chance to score a set of gt or ltd etc radius bars and think i will be looking for a while. should be enough to control the power I hope to be using.

Hi. I have a 1966 XR ute with a 5lt eb and aod or aode. The problem is I just keep running into all this tech stuff to get the motor running rite and any thoughts of an upgrade to tuning the efi or head and other mechanical upgrades brings a terrifying wave of tech crap. For all the wizbang tech the later motor has , 25 years after the 302 was released in the XT falcon it still has the same output. Yes it's probably 10% cleaner but a 100% more of a pain to work on, tune or modify. Those of you that love modern tech, electronics, iPhone etc won't understand why I would want to swap back to the dark side, or carbs, but life will be much easier. Anyone who knows what can and can't be removed or has some suggestions for heads cam rockers lifters, inlet manifold and carb can please put forward for us all to consider. I have been eyeing of a pair of trick flow heads. 190cc runners with 53 cc chambers. Can't seem to get the information on what sort of compression I would end up with. I have tried asking some forums to no avail. If anyone has a formula or has done something like this please feel free to let me know. This idea all started with the knowledge that my 5lt has shite heads that had to go. A Trickflow top end EFI kit was considered but after looking at more electronic and specialist tech work to get it running rite I thought I should go carb instead. And your thoughts are?

Hi. I have a 5lt efi EB XR8 engine , according to my ecu info on my car, and have been looking at the engine number on my rego to try and identify the year and model it came out of. I have seen on other posts info on where to look for the number on the block but have not been able to site it yet. The info I found says above the starter above or below the starter. I did find some info on 302 and 5lt blocks but it may have been American. Do the Aus blocks have a different number system to the yanks or are they the same? My engine number, according to the rego papers is PG32847. Can any one give me a link that works or identify my number for me. This motor is in my 66 XR ute so I can't give any other specific info on the vehicle to help with a search. Hope some one can help. Ta

Oh rippa. Will go check now...the ute is parked next to my xxxx fridge fulla liquid amber. Silly thing about this is its been through qld to nsw engineering and then rego and re regoed and no one found the number they just took my word and the old qld rego papers. Had a look and found a lug. Can't see numbers. Are they on th top or side flat areas. Trying to upload a photo...crap one as lots on my tablet. Fu.. th tech shite I can't do it.....failed

Bear351c does my rego info sound rite pg32847? Or is it because its a 5lt efi that the coding doesnt work like you sugested? Ford WTF behind the starter. Don't want anyone seeing my engine number ay!

Hi. I have a 1966 XR ute with a 5lt eb and aod or aode. The problem is I just keep running into all this tech stuff to get the motor running rite and any thoughts of an upgrade to tuning the efi or head and other mechanical upgrades brings a terrifying wave of tech crap. For all the wizbang tech the later motor has , 25 years after the 302 was released in the XT falcon it still has the same output. Yes it's probably 10% cleaner but a 100% more of a pain to work on, tune or modify. Those of you that love modern tech, electronics, iPhone etc won't understand why I would want to swap back to the dark side, or carbs, but life will be much easier. Anyone who knows what can and can't be removed or has some suggestions for heads cam rockers lifters, inlet manifold and carb can please put forward for us all to consider. I have been eyeing of a pair of trick flow heads. 190cc runners with 53 cc chambers. Can't seem to get the information on what sort of compression I would end up with. I have tried asking some forums to no avail. If anyone has a formula or has done something like this please feel free to let me know. This idea all started with the knowledge that my 5lt has shite heads that had to go. A Trickflow top end EFI kit was considered but after looking at more electronic and specialist tech work to get it running rite I thought I should go carb instead. And your thoughts are?

Yep I think I was just hope full my car could get an easy fix or two to keep it going for the moment. There is a bit to concider if I go carby. The 5.0 has the starter on the passenger side as well end if I swapped to a manual or an old school 3 speed I would have to get an early bellhousing. I swapped my first cars (HR prem wagon) 2 speed auto with a borgy 4 speed out of a P76. It worked wonders having 4 gears to help the poor old 186. My next car was a 351 XY Fairmont, I wish I never got rid of it, anyway swapped the 3 speed auto for a 302 XB GS borgy 4 speed. As I was getting around 12 mpg with my warmish motor and 2.75 9" diff. I picked up about an extra 8 mpg to 20 mpg. So I know there are advantages for manuals, it's just that time has changed so much so far as cars are concerned. Fuels, emission controls, electronic management of everything, and complexity. I looked at going for a to but after talking with Mal Woods and getting most of what I needed it would have been around 6800. Yikes take me back to the 70's please. As a side to the efi to carry thing does someone have a way for me to get a photo in my little window (don't know the proper name) for my posts and replies etc

Yep I think I was just hope full my car could get an easy fix or two to keep it going for the moment. There is a bit to concider if I go carby. The 5.0 has the starter on the passenger side as well end if I swapped to a manual or an old school 3 speed I would have to get an early bellhousing. I swapped my first cars (HR prem wagon) 2 speed auto with a borgy 4 speed out of a P76. It worked wonders having 4 gears to help the poor old 186. My next car was a 351 XY Fairmont, I wish I never got rid of it, anyway swapped the 3 speed auto for a 302 XB GS borgy 4 speed. As I was getting around 12 mpg with my warmish motor and 2.75 9" diff. I picked up about an extra 8 mpg to 20 mpg. So I know there are advantages for manuals, it's just that time has changed so much so far as cars are concerned. Fuels, emission controls, electronic management of everything, and complexity. I looked at going for a to but after talking with Mal Woods and getting most of what I needed it would have been around 6800. Yikes take me back to the 70's please. As a side to the efi to carry thing does someone have a way for me to get a photo in my little window (don't know the proper name) for my posts and replies etc

I was looking a site with some useful info on swapping a 5lt windsor and several of the common mistakes made. I am still checking mine and have found three so far. 5lt should have 2 cos sensors and they should be within 3 inches down street of the exhaust collector. Strike 1. The air filter should not be fitted straight up against the MAF. Strike 2. The throttle body should not have a bend directly (close) before or after it. Strike 3. The alternative location for the air cleaner is up front left side near the radiator. This requires shrouding the filter. All bullshite or not.? Here hopefully is the thingy to go to. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/25-ford-302-5-0-efi-engine-swap-errors/ For a carby guy struggling to get a handle on some of the efi tech, I found this helpful.

Hey guys thanks for the replies and the info. Am still trying to use the site but its way better than the other forum to learn and so far the people have been very helpful. Re my brakes I have replaced all hses with braided fronts and new rear rubber also bought two types of bleaders, one is massive, and bled the shite out of them. A job I learnt at about age 10 from mech Dad. Also was told the gearbox is not a AOD OR AODE so went digging and sure shite its a DSI/BTR M95LE. I do see various aod performance boxes offered in aus just to nite. I also saw a pages on the Mods for the BTR box DTW I think, and they mentioned the separate ECUs and full manual conversions. Anyway good info and help. I am answering this via my phone as the replies come in via email. If I look at OzFalcon on my tablet I'm forked if I can see how to find my shite. I will keep having a go. Drove my first car at 6 with Dad as my tutor. Stole the same car at 7 and drove it myself! 6500 acres of race track.

Thanks for the info. The gearbox was one of the problems I thought I would have. Man if only it had a manual box. Yet another reason to give th he tech stuff a miss. Hey that's interesting what was said about the AOD AND AODE box not coming to Oz. I was reading some info about those boxes and could have sworn it was an Ozy doing the talking. I will see if I can find the link. Another thing I will di is grt ridvof the xb diff as it has bent axles and even though I have reconditioned everything in the brakes and added a brake bias valve I keep getting rear luckup. Their I squeeze them in without a rush it's not to bad, but if I am a bit Buick the rear will lock. I have xf disc front brakes and xb drum rears with an XA style 1 inch master cylinder with a cheap aftermarket 7 inch single diaphram booster. Crap results. Yet another job to get it working rite. I went to three brake guys and they were not much help at all. Refused to install the bias as it wasn't bought at the same place and wanted to go over the entire car system and they would fix it. No quotes just give us your car and pay when you get it back. These guys would not even make the diffs rear brake lines. It took two lots of material but I did Them myself and they look perfect.