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XB18333

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Posts posted by XB18333


  1. 4 hours ago, deankdx said:

    i had a bit of a search, couldn't see one specific to XB(XA to XC) i did an F100 one which i'm sure the window needed removing or at least dropping into the door frame. 

     

    @bear351c or @hendrixhc may have done them before though.

     

     

     

    Peter Anderson is restoring an XC GXL on youtube, and has 100s of distractions along the way, but goes into great detail on most processes. be worth watching or skipping through regardless for other items that may be relevant to your build. 

    this link should be the playlist of 50 videos.

     

     

    I'll have to watch this Dean when I get some of that elusive spare time.


  2. Thanks everyone for the replies- if I do it from the top with the glass still in place, yes, it will probably scratch the paint.

     

    Murphy's Law says the clips will be seized in place and will break off when I pry them out too 🤑

     

    If I remove the lot then I can work on all the other issues in there I guess.


  3. Hi all,

     

    I'm about to replace the door belt rubbers (ones that stop leaves and rain and bird s*** going down into the door past the glass on the outside) on the XB and was wondering if there's anything I should do/not do to make it easier. Looking through the service manual there doesn't seem to be anything mentioned about them except they have clips. Looking at it with the door wound down I imagine the whole glass and regulator assy needs to come out?

     

    Didn't buy the internal 'brush' seals oops, could have done that at the same time! $64 each door for these though! Might see if Bunnings has a brush seal the same width.

     

    Cheers


  4. 6 minutes ago, deankdx said:

    with the boot open, if you haven't already removed the lock barrel, it's held in by a clip you slide sideways(cutting your hands open like a monkey in a cookie jar scenario)

    with the lock removed, it's screwdriver accessible from the outside easily.
     

    Thanks for that dean. That was my next problem. Currently got it held closed with a webbing strap around the back seat sheet metal and waiting for new lock barrel and key to arrive.

     

    I'll do just that tomorrow. Cheers.


  5. Got in through the back seat today lads and opened her up easily with a flat head screwdriver as suggested.

     

    No body in the boot thank goodness.

     

    Found some rust around the upper boot gutters where it joins near the bottom of the rear window and some around the top of the tail lights. Haven't looked down by the 1/4 panels yet as they've tek screwed plywood filler board in place. Expecting lots more rust hidden under that beautiful paint job unfortunately. Looking forward to tackling it in time though!


  6. 2 hours ago, deankdx said:

    if you don't have a gas tank in the way? 

    you can remove the back seat and access the back of the latch the key barrel operates with a flat screw driver with a bit of a reach(shouldn't need to climb inside)
    also you could undo the striker i would think that the boot lock latches into. 

     

    if the key is turning, it should open.. try putting some downward force on the boot(without denting it) to take some pressure off the latch. 

     

    or get a new key cut, so it's at least strong enough to give confidence opening it.

     

    it's possible it all just needs lubricating(full of dust) depending where the tightness is(barrel itself could get some graphite) or lock mech spray with some CRC/WD40 etc initially to diagnose if it's that.. it could also be out of alignment making it tight

    Thanks for the reply- It has a petrol tank installed and is drivable but not rego'd to get down to get another key cut, and I don't have the key code on the key as it's worn away. 

     

    Not sure where else I could find the key code?

     

    I've tried the downward and upward force while jiggling etc.

     

    Might just have to remove the rear seat and reach in

     

    Cheers

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