hendrixhc

This would be the one

Acrylic base coat wont supply you with a strong gloss finish like a 2pak will off the gun. The clear coat protects the base coaat and gives it depth and allows you to buff it up to a nice shine. It quite amazing what a difference it makes.

On the sill you could usee something like Cguard and then top coat it with acrylic. You can get Cguard in black, grey and white.

Yeah i chucked one on my cortina bought 25 years ago and thats still going ok!

Thermostat Housing

Well i took the advise of some learned friends and bought one of those of the shelf Kilkenny castings shitty looking thermostat covers. While the practicality of it is justifiable the appearance is plahhh! It has plenty of ports for switches to.



So first thing was to hit it with a mini flappy disk on the die grinder and then a carbide bit to remove all the flashing from casting.



Then spend the next few hours with 240 grit, 400 grit and 1500 grit wet and then another 1/2 hour on the buffing wheel to end up with this.



I could spend a few more hours and be a bit more pedantic but i think it will look ok as is.



All  in all worth a few hours pissing round in the shed! 

Just out of interest what thermostats do you use Adam?

Thanks Adam i'll take that advice BUT did you try it with gasket, silicon and oring and holding your tongue on the left or the right when you tightened the bolts? 

Thanks Gerg!

Thanks Thom. I'll have to look into this.

I thought xc had provisions for senders in thermostat housing an you can get them in chrome out of the box

Yeah you can get chrome off the shelf but they are not drilled for senders. They look like it in the pictures but are not in the flesh

Whos using what housings on their clevo?

Id like to get chromed or polished alloy but have provision for thermo switches but dont seem to be able to find anything suitable. Do i buy the shitty looking cast one and polish it or the chrome one and drill and tap the switch holes?

Or does anyone have any other suggestions on fitting the switches ( apart from the probe tucked into the radiator hose)?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-302-351-CLEVELAND-CARBURETTOR-INLET-MANIFOLD-4BBL-HOLLEY-BY-REDLINE-/160995183573?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257c0f8bd5&_uhb=1#ht_3363wt_775

I didn't think they make a victor junior for the clevo, just the Windsor.

 

You have the performer or the air gap as choices from edelbrock

Was just gonna say the same thing. did a look up on the edelbrock website and they only list them for windsors.

No worries. i believe you can buy plastics paint stripper but i dont have any experience with it so i wont recommend it! 

Afraid its all down to good old elbow grease and rubbing with wet and dry ( wet ) until you get a good clean surface to paint on.

I used a fairly fine grade, 240 i think, to start with and then down to 600 wet to clean mine up. If you use a coarser grade you run the risk of gouging the plastic and getting a furry surface.

Once you have cleaned it up, do any straightening you need to with a heat gun then give it a good wash down with wax and grease remover an spray bout 3 coats of plastics primer on. Rub it back again with 600 wett to iron out any imperfections and reprime any rub throughs.

I used K&H Satin black bumper spray to refinish mine ( bout 4 coats) and then fitted a new chrome trim to finish off.

To be honest unless yours is warped or cracked beyond repair its prolly easier to refurbit yourself. Its not really that hard and they come up quite decent.

Dont believe you can get new ones but there was some place a while ago advertising fully refurbed, like new, bumpers for round $250.

Sorry i just checked but i have deleted the email now. It was one of those exchange bumper places.

Dont they say that the dual plane has a better torque curve?

Acrylic smells fucking fantastic when you are spraying it.

Septone products are shit and you will kick yourself if you waste your money and time with it.

If you have a look in my project thread you will see how it is mounted. I will try and find the pic for you.

Hope this is what you are after.

*whispers* Pssst, there is an audio one

See was a good idea then!

Audio Topic would be beneficial as with Body Electrics to.

Assuming it is paint and not ceramacoat i would get them sandblasted or wire wheel them to clean up the surfaces. You can then give them a good degrease with degreaser or wax and grease remover and thoroughly dry them.

VHT make a primer called flame proof which is suitable up to 1500 degrees which you do 2 or so coats and then top coat it with  their flame proof colours. I think they only have matt colours but they do have gloss clear coat. In saying that i read somewhere that the clear coat does dull or go brown.

The paint instructions say that you have to bake the paint coatings by running the engine for a given time or in a oven if you have one big enuf.

I have done my headers but are yet to run  the engine so i can tell you for sure if the coating is durable.

To hell with it Polson, sell a Kidney and spend the money Bro!

You should be fine without the converter/dissolver stuff, as long as you W/G remove it (as hendrix said), and get at least primer on it soon, and then paint ASAP. 

 

If you get rust converter/dissolver I recommend NOT using Motorspray brand, their rust remover/treatment product is crap!! I bought one only the other day that is working more than 10x better, can't remember the brand though!!

I am strong believer that anything with Motorspray on the can is crap!

Just remember to clean it off with W&G remover asap and seal it cause it will start to corrode straight away, especially if it is humid.