hendrixhc

Trial and error Dave. Get the angle grinder out and just start chopping.

I found the rocker cover seals are pain in the fucking arse, specially if you have the cheapy chrome rocker covers. I replaced the covers with alloy ones and siliconed the neoprene gaskets to them prior to fitting to the heads. Siliconed them, to the heads and put a dab of silicon on each rocker cover stud thread to stop the leak. It finally worked and no annoying leak from the covers.

I also had to exercise the window frames on the doors to get a nice shape and fit as well.

I had a similar experience lining mine up. Get the guard right and the doors are out. line up the doors guards are out. I lined up the swage lines perfectly and the tops and bottoms of the doors dont line up to great. I think this is why the "masters" of our craft add welds to the door edges to get gaps correct. I also noticed when doing the body work on the rear wheel arches that the profiles look the same but when i used a prfileing gauge they were quite dissimilar. I guess perfection will come depending on patience and desire to modify.

So there are different types of Holley carbies. I see them listed as 4150 and 4160. Is it right that they are both the same but the 4160 is an aluminium body carby as apposed to steel.? Is there any pros or cons to the ally body carbs?

2 of the bearings go in the centre cap to locate the crank. Forget what the call them. thrust bearing or something like that. Check for scoring on the crank. if its scored it may need machining. Thats about the limit of my knowledge!

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Headlight-Reminder-KC5317-Assembly-Required/253220386876?epid=1663784571&hash=item3af51c783c:g:g1EAAOSw7qdZ7BcW

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I got mine just before the carby.

I just popped all the bearing caps and jacked the crank enough to allow the seal to rotate out. lubed the bearings and refitted them all. Havent had any issues at all.

I know the locks in the XG are a pain in the fucking arse....that is all.

If they are 1/4" you could use an ARP clevo pack.

Never played with those 6 cylinder sludge pumps but i have converted the clevos to rocker studs. easier to fit the gaskets and covers.

Not sure on that, adjusters would be on the wrong side. cant remember if they were the seats with the flat bases or the au ones i had.

Low series E seats would fit. Depending on what sort of seat your looking for. If its a drag ute maybe an aftermarket sports seat might be the go bolted to your original rails.

EB will bolt straight in. AU - BA need mods to make them fit. I found the AU seats sat to high and forward for a comfortable driving position.

Did you buy yours locally Rob or from OS?

good question. following.

From what i understand they are a pain in the arse to split and rebuild. I got a recon one from a brake shop for $295. Only thing i wasnt happy with was the shit house black gloss paint job they had done on it.

Check the floor drain plugs are installed, not split and sealing correctly.

Ive been toying around with the idea of chucking a snail on the ute cause basically its slow as fuck and well it would be a lot more fun to drive. Ive sourced an EL computer to suit the engine as it allows for better tuning with a J3 chip. Im also in the process of getting an AU engine cause ive read the bottom ends are better and it means i can build up the engine while keeping the ute on the road, Now im not interested in a high budget build but i am not likely to do it on the cheap either. Only thing is i have no idea what way to go with a parts list so i asked my learned colleagues to add some advice here to point me in the right direction. I do know there will be some braided line, shiny allloy intercooler piping and the odd aeroflow fitting but other than that who knows - all a learning curve.

No nothing yet. Been getting stuck into the XE to try and bring that project to a conclusion.

Might look better as a king cab with a rear suicide door like those mazda Rx8s.

Terri ute just looks wrong.

From the coil from memory