hendrixhc

Youll be surprised how much painting the black outs will make them look ten times better.

Yeah autosol is a bit like toothpaste and has a really fine grit in it. gets rid of all the sanding scratches. It does leave a protective film over the metal which you will notice when you go to wash them. Thats why a i used the degreaser and wax and grease remover to remove it before painting.

I just use autosol. Cleans them up very quickly. As for the stripping the paint i wouldnt bother unless it is flaky. I just clean the wheels down with a degreaser and then mask the polished sections and spray withe caliper paint. 2 very light coats to start off. Like a ghost coat, then lay about 4 or 5 thicker, wet coats.

I can do a how to if anyone is interested in the way i do it. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

These work quite well in fine grades as well. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120g-30x-10x-3-2mm-Rotacraft-Flap-Sander-32mm-Disc-Grit-Sanding-Wood/362260373853?epid=1634013121&hash=item545866a15d:g:vpQAAOSwEIJanSsx

You can get drill mounted 2" sanders. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50x-2-50mm-Sander-Paper-Sandpaper-pad-Disc-Polishing-Pad-M6-Backer-Plate-Set/253468840445?epid=2264928348&hash=item3b03eb91fd:g:R~wAAOSw68lanQ~L

Would the AU rail and regulator be sufficient or should i use the XG rail and reg.

I have a mini 2" air sander that i use. It does a great job of cleaning the metal. Like this one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silverline-672976-Mini-Air-Sander-2-50mm/372223627025?epid=1573941476&hash=item56aa41cf11:g:nAQAAOSwtDdahcvC

Yeah i just use the rag polishing wheels in the kits from bunnings and supercheap. They just go in the drill.

Main reason for me is looks. Ill be putting larger injectors in anways. Just wondering if anyone had ever seen them. Idid hear the factory ones corrode internally. Dont know if its true or not.

I use 80 grit to get the deep scratches out and gutter rash out then go to 240 then 500 then polish. If you want a real mirror like finish use some 1200 wet after the 500 and change the buffing wheel regularly for a new one.

Id polish them first then mask them well and paint. I use the VHT gloss black caliper paint to paint mine. Its hard, heat resistant, flows well and doesnt require primer underneath. 2 years later and it still looks like new with a wash over.

Ive been looking for a billet fuel rail for the AU engine but it appears like they dont make such a thing.

Definitely need the black centres to offset the polished alloy.

Nice. They'll clean up a treat and NO you lazy bugger they wont take to much effort to do! Piece of cake. One thing that really fucks me off with wheels like this is when tyre shops put the wheel weights on the outside like that. It fucks the finish on the rim and they tend to pitt with moisture under the weight. Makes it harder to get a good surface finish on the lip.

I assume the fuel rail on the AU BBM is different to that of the BA FAlcon?

Whats the best type of replacement distributor to stick in the AU block. Would like to go with something new.

Cheers. Look like ill have to start tidying up the BBM instead of the log. It will be easier to run intake piping to as well for the snail.

Also will the bbm clear the shock towers ok and the dizzy and the A/C compressor? Lots of questions!

Is that unpicking the loom to make wiring reach?

Can you use the bbm with an xg engine loom to run injectors. Dizzy and shit. Sorry if this is a dumb question.

I always use the BP98 in the FGX and XC.

TI Performance

I heard you can run a 17" wheel on the drivers side and a 16" on the passenger side to compensate for the weight of the driver so the car sits level. Also better for turning left at speed.

Welcome aboard Joshua, You lost me after "Hi i am a new member here.........." Im sure someone will have an answer for you.