hendrixhc

You beat me to it. My Clevo drinks more than a fish. I choose not to know its lack of economy!

Well the build is going to slowly take shape after this week end. PIcking up the AU engine Sunday!

To add a picture you need to get a photobucket or imageshack account and up load your photos there. From there you can copy the image link code and paste it in your post to display the picture. Apparently if you use tapatalk from your phone you can upload pictures that way somehow.

For some reason the figure 80A sticks in my mind. Welcome aboard by the way.

Id guess around $4500ish to $5500ish if you have receipts for the build.

Am i right in assuming the AU runs coil packs?

Not a silly question at all. Unfortunatley i dont have an answer to it. Im only learning all about these filthy little six bangers. Is this something i need to do?

Just found this on another forum Just done the same, Pretty easy but took me most of the week to get it done around work. My sway bar spacers are made out of 1" RHS 2.5mm wall and I just cut the notches with the angle grinder and cleaned up the edges with a file then drilled the hole through them and got some longer bolts, dead easy and easily just as strong as original and shouldn't change how the sway bar works at all, still sits reasonably close to the sump, hits when I jack it up from the cross member but I doubt I will be able to make it hit while on the road unless I get it airborne and then that will be the last thing I will be worried about. I used the XG engine mounts, XG timing cover (2 sump bolts at the bottom left out and just mastik'd up), XG Oxy sensor, XG power steering pump, XG harmonic balancer and XG alternator then cut some notches in the webbing on the bolck, tapped out one of the holes on the block to 7/16 UNF which was not drilled and tapped and fitted a HT 7/16 bolt with loctite to mount the XG alternator mounting bracket along with the standard long 6mm bolt rather than using an AU unit. Means that when the XG alternator dies I can use either XG or AU with minor wiring alterations. Had to cut about 10mm off the aircon mounts on the block, and I made up a mounting plate for the coil to bolt on where the knock sensor was for the AU. All up, the conversion has cost me about $300 for a 180k engine and reco trans which replaces my 480k engine and second hand trans which I have no idea what K's it's done. I got my Engine and trans off Ebay for $179, trans is reco, came with startermotor but no alternator or power steering pump thus why I used all the XG stuff. As par the course and seems I had the front off the engine I fit a new timing chain and tensioner kit, seal etc Loving it, next to fix some minor rust, and exhaust, get the low beams working and fit new lights all round and some new spring saddles for the front and it should be done and can go back to work. Cheers Damo

Internal or external wastegate?

Can anybody tell me what mods have to be done to the AU engines when fitting them to an XG I believe something has to be done to the sump?

Sure that cant hurt. good reference material for others to. Cheers!

Well that cans that idea. Apparently the j pipe doesnt clear the steering box. Looks like ill be making a custom log style manifold.

Ill have to get in contact with them and find out what they think. Fingers crossed they do.

I was looking at their J pipe kit which includes everything for $2k. That might be a good option.

No problems at all. Been running over 12 months and have no charge or supply issues with the thermos etc.

I found this article on the Spoolinboost page and thought it might be worth copying to preserve for for use Making the stock BTR falcon auto live with boost and increased power. The Btr Auto fitted to ea-au is a much under rated box. With a few basic mods they are happy holding over 300rwkw. We have even put down 430rwkw with an internally stock ef trans. The two biggest killers are heat and slipping which causes more heat, keep these two things in check and you will have a happy trans. For fluid temperature control run a big trans cooler with lots of airflow to it. The stock radiator trans cooler just dosnt cut it. Frequent oil changes are also a good idea, especially after dyno work as the oil gets very hot. The biggest issue is slipping on gear changes, this will kill a good trans quickly. The factory trans tune gives soft shifts to enhance comfort. As soon as more power is put through the car the auto will slip noticeably on changes until it gets to the point of hitting the rev limiter before shifts occur. Again this is caused from the factory tune commanding low trans pressures for a gentle shift. Even 200rwkw will bounce off the limiter 2-3 times before shifting. This is due to slippage between the change. You can modify the signal to s5 solonoid via J3 tuning or common resistor shift kit setup. This will help marginally but is still no were near enough line pressure in our opinion. The next option is to delete s3/s4 solonoids which gives full line pressure all the time and is the only way to make them hold decent power. Firstly this is not our idea full credit goes to Turbotrana on the ford forums. We have been doing this mod for 4 years with good results. Shifts are always crisp and instant, the downside being that driving around normally the shifts are a bit rough but once you learn how to drive it the shifts are acceptable and well worth it. We havnt tried this but it may be possible to use a 5 pin relay to trigger via boost switch so full line pressure is only used under full throttle. To set it up all you need to do is cut the signal wires going to s3 and s4 and wire them to dummy solnoids or resistors so the ecu dosnt go into limp home mode and stick in 3rd. It basically thinks its still controlling the solonoids in the gearbox but its just controlling the ones wired to the outside of it. The solonoids in the trans are left in untouched. On an ef the wires are the yellow wire with green stripe and pink wire with yellow stripe and brown dots. Both wires are next to each other at the bottom of the round plug on the side of the trans. They can be reconnected at any time to go back to the factory tune peramiters. Sorry for the poor quality photos.

Any opinions on which way the T3 flange should sit - vertical or horizontal?

I recon i could weld up the manifold ok. Something like this would work!

You mean a Clevo - yeah got 2 of those already!

Thanks XPT. plenty of advice there. I was thinking of making my own exhaust manifold. I have tracked all the bits down on ebay already! Was just tossing up ( not off) whether or not i could it it. Wast sure if i needed to have all 6 runners of equal length.

Im thinking with the AU motor of stripping it down, getting the block tanked - cleaned and checked, honed if necesary and reassembling it with new rings, oil pump and gaskets. Head will get checked, surfaced and up the valve spring pressures and a cam upgrade. Ive been told the log manifold off the XG is the way to go with boost, is this correct?

First part bought today - AU engine complete!

Is that the J pipe thing for the stock manifold for bout $395.?

Does 2k in a can contain isocyanites? Or is it safe to use at home?

Do these fit an FMX!