tpak addict

Mine was a Tickford Duel Fuel so stated on petrol then changed over. Think it only primed then when engine fire changed over so used sweet FA petrol...

18mm long socket is needed to remove cradle too

When I had my AU S1 Duel fuel I used to put 98 in.... I would run on LPG 99% of the time (did start on petrol) then every 2 month run the petrol down and chuck another 20-30 bucks in.... Never had any issues.... On long trips I only filled to half tank just in case I needed it

Got pics of the setup... that may help.... May be rich or lean if its bogging down, A Dyno run may help check afr's where it bogs down... Vaccuum leaks may be another possible cause also.

I dont think its electrical... Time to start saving...

Aww that sucks.... My plan was to slap the other engine in and rebuild the original engine faster, stronger than before...

Always the way tho.... I am lucky as I have spares for mine and against the wife insistance will not part with my spare running gear for just this reason... Its nice to know if anything does happen I have a backup plan... I know when the FG trans shit itself that seriously hurt the wallet (lucky its only a 4sp not the 6sp)

Thats possible and why I said do a compression check cold & hot..... Maybe at that time for a reco....

O2 sensor.... always overlooked.... they last about 100k and then get lazy.....

I would do a compression test... one when its cold and another when its at temp..... As you know things warm up and expand under heat.....

Where they are painted grey I would do black... Will look tops when they are shiney.....

Bosch WR9LCX in my stock 4.1 EFI

Get one of those polishing kits from Bunnings/Supercheap.... Attaches to the drill and comes with a course wheel and compound and fine wheel and compound. The Jelly beans I did had been sitting outside for years and they came up a treat. Not a great pic but came up OK

You will need all the ABS system for it to work... Its an all or nothing affair

If you did the whole loom into the car, then the plugs should be there to put the sensors in... just need to change the front hubs. Not sure on the rear wether the tone wheels are on the axle or not....

Make sure when you reconnect the LPG lines they are leak free.... Put some dish washing detergent in a spray bottle with some water and spray on the connections you have done... if it leaks it will bubble.

I believe XG tensioner is different to EF+

What plans to you have for this.....

These are called Bathurst and were made by Globe (now Mullins Wheels) here in Adelaide... I believe Performance Wheels also made a similar wheel as well

I would change the thermostat personally before anything else.....

My diff only has 200,000 on it, has not been abused, still tight (still gives that LSD tyre squeel around tight turns) so hesitant to change it just yet...

May have to keep an eye out for a 2.92 LSD.....

My ZL has the lazy 2.77 LSD... So perfect cruise down the highway car, It holds its own round the burbs but a bit more punch off the line would be nice.. Thinking a 2.92 maybe the choice as it has the best of both worlds I guess.... I want to keep the car resonabley stock as possible due to funds but would like a bit more punch...

2 bits of fencing wire worked a treat when I had mine....

They use 3.27 in FG Series 1 Egas too as they only have a 4 speed auto..... In BA/BF they use 3.23 with the 4 speed.... Go Figure