FOMOCOHO

It's a bit like matching numbers block blah blah too. If you run a York compressor, you can't read the engine-number anyway. I think i'd rather get in a non-matching numbers car with A/C if it's sat all day in the sun at a car show than a matching numbers car with no A/C.

Too true! Oz blocks are higher nickel content so machining requires lower cutting speed (or insert tips)... other than that it's only the dizzy bore that matters besides the bores. Edit: ...and the original camshaft concentricity and how many times it's been machined previously...........

Just checked a couple of ZJ blocks I have stripped down (both from JH63... cars, Eagle-farm QLD). Neither is marked 'GF'. One is marked 'CF', like your '77 block (cast 8th March 1979) the other has no 'C/G' marking whatsoever (cast 5th October 1978)! Both are E-dizzy, as all XD stuff. Both have the Brass restrictor insert. Oz-cast blocks are supposed to be marked 'GF' and have the restrictor cast-in according to literature. This is wrong I think. Edit: All C-blocks post 1972-73 are cast here... starting 1975.

I think the XC with the blue-oval-badge post the F-O-R-D lettering on the bonnet were E-dizzy. 1978 somewhere.

Yeah, he (Mark) is using a later E-dizzy in the 302. $100 Vs $1100... think sourcing an old Bosch points dizzy would more likely suit his budget!

Cheers Chestnut... so he is reading it right! All pre 1975 blocks are US stock and should be 'CP'. Will most likely need a points dizzy. Is your 'CF' block points???

Pay no attention to the CJ notation, you are reading an American source. 'CF' should be 'GF'... have a closer look? Also Mark, if you can post a photo looking down the thermostat housing with thermostat removed if it isn't already. Does it have the Brass insert or is the restrictor plate cast in the block??? What are the distributor bore dims??? Better measure it. I notice you're running the electronic dizzy in the 302 you have now. This new block is most likely a 'blue' block, if so will require points dizzy.

1977 correct...was poured on 24th August 1977. We only know that though because Mark's given us more info than the date stamp. Could have been 1967 but the 'D' in D2AE tell's us it is 1970's. Pay no attention to the rest of the D2AE... as they were all cast with this number here except the XE (experimental) blocks commissioned for NASCAR (3 runs total) of which the worst 300 from the 3rd run came back for refund in early 1982. They also found their way into Oz built cars with only two bolts in the caps. Wall thickness on most of them was down to 1/8" so no big deal anyway just beefier bottom end but weighed more than D2AE.

Haha, you're wrong Dave... A to M without I (because it looks like 1... and J). It ain't rocket science... which is just a big kerosene shower-head anyway (but that's another story!).

Empty tomato/soup/whateva tin... upside down (ie open side against seal). Whichever you can find that sits in the middle of the seal. I think the 'champignon mushroom' tins are good (with or without butter sauce, doesn't matter! ) as they're only half height (so stronger). You'll need a new tin for each seal though as they will crush some.

That's what i was trying to say gerg... 2 hammers be better than one, you 'ol fitter you!

There's an old fitter's trick with tapers. It works on tie-rod ends every time I find. Don't need a bigger hammer, just need two hammers (engineer's 2 pound is fine). I'm not sure if you can get to opposite sides on the upper ball joint from memory but if you can shock it at the same time with a blow from each side... this should expand the cast housing momentarily and break the seal. Then use your usual tools/method & it should come out.

Power steer box on my XD ute is by far a much better turning circle than the manual steer sedan I had. First thing I noticed about XH was that rack & pinion power steer was worse turning circle than the XD box... but it may depend on which box you have, 20:1 or 16:1.

Seen a few EB-EL Windsor MAF at the wreckers... dunno what dia though.

What shits me about it is that what we drove is/was different to everywhere else in the world. We had our own identity. You knew you were in Oz. What's the point of travel if everywhere is the same...McDickheads on every corner and Kia's & Hyundia's in all the parks.

Think I'd rather have the Raptor... like the yellow one Clarkson tried to break in the snow... but couldn't.

I know the one you're thinking of... where the top panel gets cut off completely right? SXE did some repairs on the "reaper" ... http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/5030-xe-the-reaper/page-2

Didn't think it was really that critical but since you want to dispute I remeasured... FALCON measures 23.15 x 211.9 mm 5.8 measures 33.8 x 118.35 mm Beauty about a dial is I don't need good eyesight....

It's cold up here... as i'm sure it is out your way SXE357 ! Went out to the shed to check... FALCON measures 23 x 212 mm 5.8 measures 34 x 118 mm ...on mine, which are genuine.

Example from Vic spotto'd thread... XD S-pak

Refer sales brochure for photo of factory option 20-spoke Volante alloy-road-wheel, as below.

Any of these should do it but yellow one has chlorine resistance too.

York compressors don't like sitting unused for long periods of time. Leaking at the head gasket seal is common as it dries out. Good luck with it though... there may be better sealing kits for them now.

Yep, I use Castrol TQF in the old stuff, not to be confused with TQ95 which is NOT recommended for M2C33 applications.

Correct fluid specification type is M2C33F. Capacity is 10.5 Litres.