TUFE

Better battery has cured most problems on this. Just need to sort the gas change-over problem now along with a new mirror and she's apples

Had a big block of text written up but can't be bothered re-typing. Long story short, cars been sitting for 2 months, parked up because breaking down alot. Main problems - Runs abit rough off idle and when the idle control kicks in at the lights but otherwise like a clock.(already changed spark plugs) - Fans either stay on for no reason or don't work at all when driving (temp gauge reads normal) - Car conked out after driving 20km, started running like it has no fuel for about 20sec then died, couldnt restart it at all. Trying help my bro inlaw out by fixing it and selling it off. Where should I start?

I will mention this has a new alt on it already. Got my eyes on a replacement battery. Hopefully have this thing going right by the weekend

Bit of an update on this. Been flat out and not able to do much on it. Got some new fan relays and did a coolant sensor on this. Upshot is the fans seem cured but the car is still playing up. I got it jumpstarted and let it idle whilst I was doing something else, 3mins later it died and was un-able to start it again. So I jumped it again and got in the car and held the revs up to 2000, I pressed the power window switch to open it and it instantly died. I'm now thinking it could be the shitty battery causing 90% of the issues. Can anyone confirm a bad battery could be ruining my day?

My xe fairmont had these fitted when I bought it years ago. Ugly things, always thought they were a dealer option

Yes it's not an x-series but nevertheless it's a falcon. I want to switch from a dinged up and paint peeled tub to a hard to break tray. Is it as easy as unbolting the tub, bolting up the tray and doing some wiring on the tail-lights and plumbing up the fuel filler? #projectsellthisute

Nice one. Saves repairing panel damage

Thanks dave. I was pretty sure coilpack was a cuprit. But will try the others too

I did the same thing to my mounts, I ended up cutting and shutting them about 20mm I think. As long as your not in a hurry to take off your radiator cap it works perfect. Keep up the good work.

Ford explorer rear ends are 31 spline AFAIK and cheap. Grab one and get it cut up, poor mans 9 inch. Hth

Wow. How does a stock computer have 2 tune settings? Bunch of shit IMO, wouldn't trust that info. Check it out yourself piece by piece and approach everything as a stock component. Good luck with it all, theres bones of a decent unit there

Must need a turbo then haha

Ive got some 5.3 LSs coming in from the US. Just sayin

I did this when putting my engine together. Almost 10,000km later and 14psi she is still working as intended. Helicoil ftw

If its already club reg'd then you're ok since you fall under the existing rules (no rwc needed) which state the car must be 'in a safe drivable condition' or something similar. The only issue would be questionable mods that weren't shown to your club inspector at the time of inspection, thus potentially landing them in a world of shit. But you'd have to be pulled over for that to happen. I'd say go for it, technically it's legal.

So the engineer will look at brake systems, tyre sizes/widths, mechanical suitability of the overall chassis such as diff mounts on those TEs. You might need go beef up the chassis something like seam welding. What the capacity to weight formula do they use now? As you can see there's many, many ways they may want you to upgrade parts of your car. Alternatively you could do the basic conversion and tow it around and race it etc, thats far less hassle. Or fit an OHC or DOHC 4L which I dont think will need engineering. Cars are fun aren't they?

New rules mean you will fall under an 'm' plate on club rego. This basically means that any car that needed engineering for full rego will need the same for club rego. Your car must now pass RWC to acheive club rego, and since your car would be 'modified' it will need an engineering cert as well as RWC. HTH

This looks like my childhood car. Mum and dad had the exact colour/model/year as this...memories. There are 80mctrillion of these blocks out there, why not swap the bottom end/block over and get it running and enjoy. All the while you could work out a good repair solution for the OG block face.(my method involves gratuitous amounts of extra work).

This is the best thread on ozfalcon atm. Want to build my next turbo motor one day?

So I did that alt about 6 years ago so I can't remember much about the install. FWIR it was rattle off serp. pully, rattle on v-pully then check for free spin. These EA ones sound good though, there was no way known I was getting 12v across the terminals in the boot with my standard 35amp alt. I was constantly getting bat flatterys and it was especially annoying considering it was my daily. Then I woke up to myself and made it a fun car only.

I'm using an e-series 109?amp. Cant remember how many wires it uses but it charges my boot battery perfectly. All I did was changed the serpentine pully for a stock XE pully. It's practically a direct bolt on, you may have to space it backwards or forwards depending on positioning. You can see in this picture the ungraded alt in stock location.[/url]

If you are decent at wiring I would just cut it off at the connectors and pull the lot out. Imagine chasing a fault in there. After burning my first car's loom with bad wiring, I made sure I did the right thing second time round and put a hotrod loom in. Best get a new interior from some rusted out thing too. More holes than religious dogma in there

FYI you could run E85 and water injection in leiu of an air to air if you were clued up enough. I know of a guy that has done 3 LS1 single turbo setups that have used that system to make 600hp. But he always had packaging issues and thats why he did it. Anyway, back on topic. I'd be starting that wiring from scratch, talk about a fire hazard

In light of my imminent return to the land of oz, thoughts have returned to my XE. First things first, an oil change. I'm currently using Penrite lpg grade something something, havent had issues with it except maybe its slow to get up to pressure on cold start (this may be a generic crossflow issue). The engine is relativley stock, no oiling mods besides running a turbo feed and drain in sump. Car is not used in curcuit racing, just drag strip and street duties. I'm looking at adding about 100hp to the tune through a few small mods in the next 6months and I want to have oiling sorted, I dont mind spending a little more to get the good stuff. So what can you recommend me?

This thread has gotten good haha. Thanks for the input guys, looks like I'll try the fuchs titan and see how it goes (not that I'll notice a difference by feel). Knowing this insides will be happy I'll just rev it harder. Also looks like the cooler might be a bridge too far aswell. Probably overkill for my application