deankxf

Threads are different ???  Don't reckon, Maybe brake lines weren't exactly 90 degrees to the master cyl.

when did you try it?

Your only paying $1.30 for petrol down there!!!! average price in canberra is about $1.50. and gas around $0.79

i dont know, i dont buy petrol.. i googled todays petrol prices and that was the price..... its $1.50 today according to the interwebs.

gas is still around 60 cents....

how does the Aussie Dollar Vs USDollar affect fuel prices? that is going backwards fast

brake line threads are different when i went to try it the other way(XD booster in XF)

didnt end up going any further but i'll back Gaz and Glenn on the subject

Heater tap is in one from the head. 

 

What I meant was, does it matter where each goes in relation to the heater box? Can the hose from the head go on either left or right pipe, or does that affect the heater operation?

nah the heater core is just something air passes through that gets heated by water..  so i usually arrange the hoses through it the best fit for the space(always tight with LPG hoses in that area)

by the sounds of it, it should just work.... its being an XF(testing your patience lol)

 

As in turn the tap around or swap which heater pipe it goes onto? That was one thought, tap is in the right way (arrow points towards heater box). Can't tell if it runs into the correct pipe or not, can't compare to the ute as the ute runs into the A/C core and will work either way.

follow the hoses..

the one that goes to the water pump is the return. to the other is the supply from the head..

flipping it on the same hose would check that theory.... it has an arrow on it for a reason. but it should be pointing towards the heater box on the supply hose ideally.. to stop hot water going through in summer.

could it be possible the water direction through the tap is wrong?  never tried reversing it but it has an arrow on it..

Dads old car he used to have a ball valve(plumbing tap) used to turn it off in summer, and on in winter.. regulate the temp by fan speed and the window lol.. i find i use the window and heater a bit too..

nope, mine was more of question, because i dont understand the figures.

I understand that.

I want to gas my crossflow later maybe for turbo, whats the costs like in comparison to petrol, work out the same in the end?

would definitelty depend on the tune on petrol i think..

most 4 litre ish motors get around 15litres per 100km from gas from what i have seen..

on petrol is another story though, whereas EFs and things were often getting better than 9litres per 100km on petrol(i had an EBXR6 that used to average 10litres petrol per 100km all the time)

so theres cost comparison per 100km..

eg 15 litres LPG at 70cents  = $10.50 per 100km

or 8 litres petrol at $1.30 also = $10.50 per 100km

would depend on emissions rules for turbo? thought LPG was one way of getting over the line?  depends on expected power from both with turbo you'd still be spending money on upgrading the petrol system anyway in most cases.

wow wtf! wes was getting something like 15l 100km on the highway with his xe turbo, how come you guys are getting similar figures, didnt have like an estimated 550rwhp?

have you asked a driver of a modern car thats been converted?

most V6 commos get about 15 also..

Wes's spent some quality time being tuned by the best in the business..... that would be one reason. the combo was also matched correctly would be another reason.

i used to get 20litres per 100km out of a 351 clevo, thought that was crap till i had a 202 VH commo converted on a reco motor and got the same......

15 litres per 100 km on all my stock motors past and present.. doesnt change much for city or highway or auto to T5 manual most were 2.77 or 2.92 diff  one was 3.23 with T5 still the same
my mild crossflow on GRA with 99rwkw was a guzler, used to use about 20litres per 100km.. used to go pretty good though.

looks like it just needs a patch.. not a section

ask your local exhaust joint.. after you cut a neat hole and a patch

when i had my gemini with a rusted spare wheel well, i made the patch out of a drum lid and hammered it to shape and made a neat fit. they welded it for $50.. wasnt show car but was plenty good enough.

Displacement of weight is a huge factor though Dean?

 

Same as when driving and pulling up, the front brakes do most of the work?

not same i dont think. when driving the car has inertia and force to overcome.. stationary its only got gravity. no inertia.(thats my theory... the drums have 2 shoes, one bigger and one smaller for that effect i believe.. it shouldnt make a difference with the handbrake unless they are glazed or out of adjustment i think)

i'm tempted to ring a brake joint, but thats what Chris should do anyway.

Yeah it'll weigh the same, but weight displacement will be different.

not paying it,

it will be the relationship of the brake shoes and condition of the glazed drums or shoes in my opinion.

a 1400kg ute weighs the same if pointing up hill or down.  you could ring a brake joint