deankxf

10mm isnt much of an offset difference if i understand correctly
seems a good easy conversion

so all the diff mods are a bolt on.. do the skyline axels measure the same length as corty.

XG will have a different flange to XF , pretty sure the uni joints are different (bigger) also

(assuming your XF diff has the stock diff yoke)(they can be fitted to the XF diff to suit the larger EB XG type)

for that kind of money i'd be making my own..

i cant see why it would need to be rubber insulated, the early ones weren't, they just  fitted a slot in the fork..

you might be able to buy a whole fork with it fitted cheaper even.. if they are still made(the bush hook thingy has tabs retaining it to the fork, so might not be removable in ford spare parts eyes, but they can be removed)

I'd like to hear the explanation for that quality

i used copper spray on My mates Rambler 343 V8 with similar pitting, drove all the way to WA from Vic towing a trailer and 20,000km before being sold with no issues still..
i believe there is a surface grinder thingy that can be used on blocks in the car.. not sure who'd have one though

is that clutch cable mount broken from clutch cable or some big chisel to make access for something

woo!
that's a fair mess, i have had a small amount of similar damage in the past from the battery boiling from overcharging.

did you or will you get that head mapped for cnc machining.. would be handy to be able to bung in a few stock heads and have matching chambers and ports machined up for "spares"

assuming its awesome..

looks like a proper thought out dream.. looking forward to seeing how this goes!
 

I have been told (unsure on truth) that valve saver/flash lube only limits the damage, not prevents it.

so does driving normally though,

people told Me running alloy heads on LPG would wear them out etc.. probably does, but if its not driven much and runs fine, a flashlube kit even would suffice, saves adding it to the tank on every fill if you cant be bothered..

http://www.flashlube.com/en/products/valve-saver-kit.html

Throttle Valve cable? If it's not set right it won't shift out of first

Mines roughly set til I can afford the kit from lokar

maybe with it removed it goes straight to top, cant remember but yeah, at least you know about it.

have you set up the TV rod(or with a cable) on the AOD yet, it needs it for the shift points, otherwise goes straight to top gear.(the kickdown looking lever\rod)i had a prick of a time setting one up on My XE about 15years ago, didnt get the correct rod or have a clue on where to get the carby side from

whats the go with the steering box, is the 260c one going to accept the 100 pitman arm....
sounds like a custom mod

Howdy,

 

I was lucky enough to pick up some Xe door cards and armrests but they didn't come with screws/bolts

And I am unsure on the proper size and length for armrests, can anyone help

On this?

 

Cheers

Damo

they are self tappers, thickest ones i have seen with a phillps head on them about an inch long for the 2 main ones. the one near the handle is small and short.

they go into a plastic thingy in the door from memory, are these going onto XF doors(wont have the plastic whatsit doover if so)

could of been a scratch from a piston ring being installed

Surprised the extension housing is different as the late (88 onwards) XF commercials got the BW51.

something about it was different.. might have been the mounting location even

how much difference is a BW51, the EA 3 speed auto,
i once bought one, needed to swap the bell housing, kickdown cable and extension housing.. didnt end up getting around to it. heard they were better.. if so, can the better parts of one be fitted to a BW35 or 40

Leyland P76 V8 also used them. I've had a heap of them die or dead on purchase of the car but never had a rebuilt one to actually see how well they last. ...

Fitting a good Trans cooler does help

1st gear is taller than the C4 auto so when you fit a C4 it seems to wake the car up a fair bit

At the moment its i think (not 100% sure) a .75 top gear ratio

and 2.92 diff is whats in it , because i blew the last one up haha

 

ive tried to drive it in 5th instead of 6th for 5-10 mins.. just makes more noise tbh

is 4th 1 to 1, assuming it will make more noise, does it get hot.. comes back to My original point of labouring outside the range of the cam etc

i tried 3.23 with My AOD then went to 3.45 and then the ratios were all wrong for the rest of it..i should have left it C10 auto.

what ratio is in the diff and what is the top gear ratio.. i found when i fitted an AOD to MY XE many years ago with 2.92 gears it didnt like driving below 2000rpm on the highway, seemed more throttle required than the C10 without overdrive. i dont recall running hotter, but that could well be the cause, labouring due to being out of even the cams range and ign timing etc

doesn't it have a lot to do with the tune, air speed through the exhaust.
My crossflow lost low end grunt when i went to a 2.5 inch exhaust, but picked it up with efi manifold and tuning with GRA throttle(was impco 300a on std webber)

tow truck arriving on a towtruck... interesting
i should have bought something like that 10yrs ago.. sort of over playing with junk now.

whats it like rust wise, usually the firewall is a mess on the ones i have seen

i love how this project keeps moving along, and doing it all at home too

Found out Zeusproducts no longer does small jobs like reflector repolish.

 

Went and seen the guy who does my chroming and he was going to rechrome them. 

 

Problem solved.

bugger, XF ones are plastic so thats about the only option.

pretty sure the XE ones are metal, so the normal process might be fine...

be good to see though

I want to give this another go,just mainly to save money,i will pull it all out again and get new carrier bearings fitted,new wheel bearings,i have not touched the pinion at all ,so about $250-$300 for bearings and i will re install it all,at $650 plus what ever it needs which is gunna be a grand i will give it another shot.

this is why most of the time i have just bought a diff with the ratio i wanted second hand.

i had an XE ghia diff ratio changed to 3.45 due to the engineer wanting to keep ventilated disc brakes(otherwise i'd have just fitted an EB XR6 diff)

and i had a 3.45 center done to a leaf spring diff due to not being able to find that ratio for sale(rarer combo)(in hindsight, 3.23 or 3.27 would be close enough)

labour charges at $80+ hr and GST on top adds up fast