deankxf

they are a spot light, only come on when the switch on the left of the guage pod is pulled out plus on high beam *(maybe your fog lights use that switch now)

XFs have a similar setup and they come on with high beam always (not switched separate) and work amazing*(if the reflectors are any good still). you could wire them to come on at the same time as high beams.

first thing to do.. ADD RELAYS!  stock globes are fine and work VERY well with relays added.(if the rest of the lense/reflectors are good)

Check your reflectors inside the light assy.. are they shiny like a mirror? if not, get them reco'd(pretty sure the bigger one is same as the base model, double check that, they are more common though)

AIMING.. the clips that hold the reflectors on get brittle with age.. possibly broken one and aiming is out.

taking the lense off to access the insides if needed is risky(if you break a ghia lense. you may cry, they are rare and expensive)

clean lenses(glass)(and clean protectors) are needed too.

Ghia lights are brilliant when in good nic, they might be dull due to bad connections too.. pays to have a look at the electrical side being 30 years old.

mine did that a few weeks back from moisture on the dizzy cap.. could hear the spark jumping (if it was night, might have seen it)

sprayed it with WD 40 and fixed..

my other ute was a classic.. think a rat chewed a chunk of the lead out.. was missing a bit anyway.

so what just drill a hole in the side of the auto pedal box and attach a clutch pedal too it?

the hole is already there

yeh i was going to fit a 4.0 when i do this conversion. couldn't you tie it to something instead of leaving it swinging

zip tie it to the cross member

E series cables are shorter than X series. You can use it no problems, but it won't reach if you route it through the crossmember as per spec. You can still run it through if you drill a new exit hole. Or do what every other cunt does and leave it swinging in the breeze.

i ziptied my  my XF one under the x member to keep the curve nice.. i would do this regardless of E series cable or the correct one

Yep. I use an EA clutch cable in my XD with T5 set up, seems to work fine.

Also ive never had issues with the clutch pedal set up cracking but have read some others do. (touch wood it stays like that)

i've had heaps crack..well 5... same with firewalls. but thats on 15yr old car. wonder how long they take? my firewall is still good 30,000kms later as you'd expect(auto to manual converted)

having rooted clutch cable doesnt help. wonder if thats half the issue(about $100 new for that too)

think so.. pretty sure the cables dont vary much compare to XG.. try it and see..

E series you need to remove the dash..
XF you can do with the dash in, i leave the steering column in.. remove the steering wheel, lower the column and rest it on the seat(2 nuts hold that to the pedal box from memory)

worst part is undoing the nuts on the booster for me..

you still need to unplug the wires on the column,

still a prick of a job.. if you have to buy a pedal box anyway.. i'd buy the pin kit, if the pedal box cracks(manual ones do still anyway) finding an auto one is far easier.

if you dont mind paying  you can buy a pin that bolts on to the auto pedal box... if you are handy you can make one.

http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/innovations.htm

They go back in like a sedan back window don't they gaz, with a rope?

i took mine out once and refitted it with the rope.. was before the help of the internets.. so there might be a best place to end up ? but i had a lower corner last to get in and i was not having an easy time(it was as if the window grew 3 mm too wide)

with the attitude of "this is going in or i'll break it" it went in with a lot of force.. (next time i'd pay a windscreen expert to refit maybe.. if they are experts)

Correct! From what I was told today. Turns out I have excess movement in the front end. Pitman arm, wheel bearings and drag link (I think that's what its called, links the inner tie rods together) are causing movement, resulting in not holding a wheel alignment.

idler arms are the most quickly wearing shit thing in the front end. the drag link is the bar that joins all it together, holds the inner tie rods and mounts to the idler arm and the pitman arm.

you cant do a wheel alignment with worn parts.. i had that issue once with BOB JANE, who didn't(and 10 years later probably still dont?) check the front end for wear prior to an alignment.

hence i like Pedders, they will not align a worn out heap of crap.. lol..

if its got a 300a mixer(likely) you can also mount them on a holley base via adaptor and should also be good for a 4 litre

 

like this one.. sold already(was cheap too) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Impco-300A-LPG-Mixer-Gas-Carburettor-with-4BBL-Base-Plate-v8-b2-converter-/151049736720

can also probably mount it on a CPI manifold with adaptor also  and i also have seen them mounted on a efi type intake with adaptors also..

depends how much mucking around you want and what you really want? manifold wise, cost etc.

Had my Parts car (ZH marquis) running today and realised it has a B2 converter. Its some Brand called Aussie. Any way i assume that will work with my Impco 425. Also has a Gas hat an a few other bits and pieces i can use. Unfortunatly it is using a thermoquad so i can pinch the carb.

if its got a 300a mixer(likely) you can also mount them on a holley base via adaptor and should also be good for a 4 litre

like this one.. sold already(was cheap too) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Impco-300A-LPG-Mixer-Gas-Carburettor-with-4BBL-Base-Plate-v8-b2-converter-/151049736720

if the control arm bushes are shagged might be time to fix them

i'd still go with too much toe out. 

Pedders are the only ones i trust to do an alignment on my ute, 

ZF have a removable petrol tank though with a big hole in the floor able to fit 2 tanks in... ZL = plastic tank under the floor

gas lines and wiring should be fine. usually on efi they dont use 1/4" lines, but even still i have ran 1/4" with a 351 clevo and it was ok albeit not ideal. 

i havent seen a gas tank mounted where the petrol tank on a sedan goes yet. not even a donut tank

have seen 2 tanks in the boot of sedans though.. does take up a bit of room(could mount a space saver spare where the fuel tank went probably)

i have seen a section of floor cut out with a wagon half in half under boot/floor but its not legal as far as engineer?(might be certifiable perhaps, but they usually dont like cutting holes in bodywork)

on a ute is different, can get 2 under the back and one under the back window etc..

Thanks Dean. Will buy both.

just check double check they will do whats needed but i had same on a mild 265 hemi and it was as good as GRA on that motor.

the 425 is good for about 400hp, and the B2 is often used on 351s so should be good,

i had a mate with an Impco 425 on a 253 holden V8 and it was awesome.. so they work fine on small motors too

Ok I think im set on the Impco 425. I know I can set it up and that's enough for me. Classic case of KISS keep it simple stupid.

 

One question. Will it work with my OMVL converter. I have dual fuel on the ZL now and there is an OMVL converter all plumed in and ready to go. so can I or do I need to get an Impco converter.

OMVL use a simple mixer, so thats a no..

 could probably use the gas ring that is currently on it but they are usually down to 40mm inside (compared to 70mm efi throttle body)

for a 425, the usual choice these days is a Aussie B2 converter at about $200 plus fittings

hmmm. Sounds like a good option. I have an OMVL converter. Unsure if its any good but my car certainly has no guts on gas. Maybe i should try and find a complete Egas AU motor than?

one at Jollys looks like nothing gas wise is sold looking at the sold items list.

http://www.jollysupullit.com.au/eziparts/Display_Vehicle.asp?PriceListID=0&VehicleID=502178&Location=jollysupullitcomau&VehicleDesc=Ford%20Falcon%20AU2/AU3%2004/00-09/02

i think the Aussie speed is for the square bore.

 

I think the Aussie speed manifold is the easiest way to set this up. If someone knows an easier or cheaper way please tell me. Might save me $400!!

 

Plus i can set this up.

if you havent bought the Impco 425, an impco 225 is probably ok on the stock motor using the stock intake it comes with

what gas converter is fitted at the moment. could run a gas ring on the stock manifold be even cheaper. dont the tickford gas setups of EF etc run a gas ring?

Is there any differnce in holley base plates? I am using am Impco 425 but need to get a base plate.

 

Someone said the 425 is over kill but i would like to go bigger cam etc so if i need it later il have it.

spead bore has bigger secondary venturies which i would assume flow more than a square bore?  might depend what the Aussiespeed manifold is setup for too?

are you sure you need an aussispeed manifold? the long runners of the efi manifold made better low end torque was my understanding..

Had anyone driven a car without a sway bar.Unless your on a race I track there is next to fuck all diffence.No sway bar on my ute...

just changing from rubber to nolathane bushes on my sway bar made a massive improvement to my ute. would depend on spring stiffness and shocks but no way i wouldnt run one on the front.

I think people here EA Transmission and run lol.

i might use the EA auto(on a crossflow) but then again.. i still got it for free

ive offered him a belhousig as well ,

funny how you cant even give some parts away lol

Thanks ReVhEaD. Well i was getting close!

Might head out to a wreckers tommorow. I should be able to get thermos and hopefully there will be an XG ute.

Anyone got any parts i can use they would like to sell?

i have the EA 3 speed auto bell housing you need..(free$ to you)

interested in this conversion..