deankxf

did you leave the sway bar in? if so, having both wheels off the ground at the same time might help

loosen the 3 ball joint bolts then fit the castor rod, then retighten the ball joint bolts up. its got slight movement in the bolts and should fit.

might need to tap it with a hammer etc if its still not going in

loosen the 3 ball joint bolts then fit the castor rod, then retighten the ball joint bolts up. its got slight movement in the bolts and should fit.

May have to try some of this, front main seal in the ute leaks pretty bad... Probably too bad for this to help now though?

you might be surprised, fixed a Massive rear main leak on an XF i had.. when i pulled the seal out later it was cactus, still dont know how it didnt just pour oil out

ZJs and XDs didn't run a return line from my memory, its probably not needed on the weber carb even. i am sure i have just plugged that line in the past on similar conversions(XD, cortina  and transit van)

not sure if this issue is resolved yet, but for front or rear crank seal leaks i have added this stuff.. STP engine stop leak and it has ALWAYS stopped that leak.
that transmission seal gets hot and dry from being near the exhaust, but i'd even still add some stop leak to the transmission..worst case is it doesnt help.. best case no more leaks

whoever said to change an engine needs to be avoided, as they are clearly rip offs.
 

i was wondering about filters when looking on summit racing site for the lexus motor.. some were rated at 20micron? and i think the K&N was a 10micron filter.. didnt recall seeing the flow rating but was planing to look into it to compare the ryco z148 i just bought for it. the ryco packet says meets OEM specs.. spose thats all i need in a stock engine.

the one that goes to the oil cap? or pcv valve is one the hose goes stiff and can split

also i moved a non used wire to the tacho pin, because i originally bought a loom section from a base model..

i found my notes, if you cant work it out.. best not start..

NO WARRANTY, NO PROMISES, ENTER AT OWN RISK i have a cluster here someone cooked trying to do this conversion lol(not me)

when looking at my chart the numbers i wrote in the XF plugs go to the numbered E series wires

wiring diagram showing plugs(if keeping the XF plugs from a sacrificed GL cluster for eg)

Loom interface i made(can be removed to refit an XF cluster etc)

fuel guage mod i invented, (this is to fit the XF GL fuel guage,)(there is other ways of making the E series one work..i dont know how)

other part of the fuel guage mod, bypassing the internal circuit board

thats handy to know regarding the early senders, my transit sender may work straight up also then? if i ever get to this mod for it also.

the fuel guage doesnt work with the XF tank sender.  (its ok on most LPG tanks though)

but you can mount the XF GL guage inside the EB cluster and do some wiring mods, or, i spoke to an instrument tech that can make it work other ways.. (not sure whats involved, but its possible)

i used the E series oil sender also, aparently they vary a little.

i will be making another soon, so wouldnt mind seeing if yours is easier to read than Mine John,

Afaik, Au will bolt onto Ef diff (the axles have the same spacing as e series from bearing to flange and the bolt pattern for the retainer appears to be the same

that should work the other way then(EF brakes on the AU Diff)

Yes will fit the diff housing but the au rotor is smaller and runs a different caliper, if u keep the same brake package then it should all align. The handbreak cable is longer but.

its for My transit van that currently has a widened XF diff with drums... so a non modified housing with discs should be improved. hand brake will need to be remade anyway.

on a similar topic, anyone know if AU brakes and EF are the same on the diff?

i may be buying an AU diff with no brakes and have an EB and an EF diff here with brakes if they fit? 

hahaha how slow my ute was going the other day. having trouble keeping up on the cruise. its definately getting a heart transplant soon.

My XF has been beaten up hills by a prius, a toyota starlet life, an empty maxi cememt truck burned me off at traffic light races lol.. its still going though one day i might hope to race a 3.3 litre XF and i might have half a chance lol.

yep mine will hardly go on lpg now. Lucky i prefer petrol. But my wallet sure doesnt.

 

My AU's tranny is starting to slip. I kinda hope it gets worse so i have a reason to pinch its motor and flog it.

if you could check the trans fluid level without getting under the car you'd probably find its low on fluid, if its anything like my mates AU fairlane he had.. from slipping a bit to walking was measured in weeks not months.

most Dual Fuel cars suffer from needle and seat sticking.. something you can try is switching it to the middle(fuel off) position on the switch for a bit and then switch back to petrol.

can also tap on the front of the carby near the fuel intake with something metal... this OFTEN seats the needle and seat/float.

rarely but possible is the float sucks itself inside out almost (usually only in summer) and they make a plastic float for some carbs for this reason.  if you cant fix it simply by tapping on it you will need to remove the carby top cover and check the float / needle and seat.

FROM MY EXPERIENCE(20 years of webber X series on gas) they hate petrol once driven on gas, this is usually only from dried out diaphramns but anything could happen really.

its a potential fire hazzard, so dont dilly dally about looking into it.

the bigger 255mm dia clutch has more clamp load than the 240mm dia clutch, also i forgot to say that XG clutch cables are the same as unleaded XF

which means it if it worked ok with an EA towing a caravan it will be ok with a ute

X series, EA and EB series 1 used the 3 bolt clutch 240mm dia clutch, EB series 2-AU including the XG and XH commercial vehicles used the 6 bolt 255mm dia clutch. you'll want to get hold of a flywheel thats post EB series 2 (april 1992 onwards) the XG (XF hybrid from factory in other words) shares bits n peices from the EB series 2 and ED falcon.

the ea flywheel should fit the XG motor and work fine with the EA clutch

hey i got a wild idea can you wire the ignition computer from the xf to a 4.0l distributer? they are the same firing order right?

you'd need the same computer setup? may as well fit the E series computer if doing that?

or you could buy the one Gaz suggested that is made to fit. probably cheaper than auto elec charges anyway?   

interesting.. Zip ties would be your friend regarding the hose coiling? or duck tape it to a stick?

how would it go on car panel? i bought a super cheap air blaster and garnet.. didnt do much on what i tried for the effort(will be handy for places the flap wheel wont fit though.)

Its not gearbox strength I'm after - I believe BW autos to be fine. I know a stock one that sits reliably behind a mild Windsor, has done for years.

 

Anyway, reason I'm considering a BTR is for the overdrive gear, rather than having top being 1:1 ratio.

 

I'd rather a BTR than AOD simply for ease of parts if need be.

if you fit a 4 speed auto you will need to change the diff ratio, the 2.77s wont like the BTR gear ratios anyway.,.

with 2.77s in the diff and 3 speed auto it will get pretty much about as good economy its going to get anyway.

if you wanted it to take off quicker by fitting 3.23 diff.. then you would benefit from an overdrive.. (theres a turbo 700 4 speed auto been fitted to a ford 6 in a transit van.. but once again.. cost of doing all the mods will outweigh any economy benefit.)

ahh well, pretty sure he was Gunna(he reminded me of me, hoard stuff for project oneday..)

i wonder if you could fit an aftermarket points to elctronic kit to the E series Dizzy? my transit has a bosch moduel and chopper disc fitted to a points dizzy..

didn't Aaron (Hogan) end up using an ohc CPI dizzy and fit XF EST guts to it? then use the x series EST..

XD are Deep dish style, if you fit an XE/ XF wheel on, the blinker stalk almost touches the steering wheel

I have three headlight switches, on on each side of the steering wheel and one next to the boot release button a little further down on the right side. I have tried the combo you said and a whole bunch of others and can't get them to light up, the bulbs look ok, perhaps the switch is stuffed. 

what do you turn the fog lights on with?

on S packs, they had fog lights instead of the integrated spot light.. it was from the same switch on the guage pod(left one) in there, 2 plugs are present.. one for fog wiring, one for the driving light. they are wired differently. (fog lights only came on with parkers on XE s packs)

there is a relay that has separate wiring for the fog lights or driving lights. it is near the battery, often the 30 year old fuse holder is rooted.. check that, check it even goes to the battery still.