deankxf

Followed yours relatively closely, however early e series wiring is different to EF EL wiring.

you might be able to find wiring diagrams on fordmods forum but i have a feeling they weren't 100% when i did mine anyway.

i have a feeling the EF/EL use a different setup entirely and rely on the ECU? (From what i was told once... i never needed to know so didnt care to check.)

if you are using an EF loom? why not consider an XH cluster and surround... assuming it still fits the XF dash?

Howdy all..

 

Has anyone here successfully ran an E series cluster in an X series?

 

I know it's been done before, with the easiest way being to make an 'adaptor'.

I pulled internal plugs from shitty XF cluster, and used the plugs and about 20cm of wire from an XH.

I've matched up wires as best as I can using E series and XF diagrams but I just can't get it to work.

 

I know it's been done, just wondering if someone can help me with this one?

 

TIA,

 

Cheers,

-Nate.

i've done it, the fuel guage is usually the only thing that wont work without mods.(providing you have wired it correctly)

i'm pretty sure i still have a full conversion stored at My mates place that i'd sell.   its the EA S pack cluster(or XG S pack) with XG mount, facia and adaptor loom.(i modded the Fuel guage so its plug and play into XF non ghia dash)

what issues do you have? i put diagrams on one of the forums once link here to one thread http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/39634-ed-fairmont-instrument-cluster-into-xf/

i dont check in the forums that often lately, but will reply when i get time.

Dellow make the bellhousing to suit, along with the spigot bearing and clutch disc (you just bolt your pressure plate to dellows conversion disc). It'll be auto for now as the donor car i picked up is auto, i was thinking the toyota box "just" to be different, i'll ask neil (rocket) about the toyota box conversion he did in his XF ute.

supra box W58 are ok, but the cost will be heaps more than a T5

toyota box = custom speedo, custom cross member, custon bell housing, custom clutch, custom tailshaft.. insert $500 for every "custom" word used.

T5 = single rail V8 parts used= cheapest for a stock clevo.

if a 2.92 or 2.77 diff is used, i'd stay with a single rail anyway = cheaper(or leave it auto)

i saw them on ebay ages ago.. pretty sure it was from rare spares... might not have been, last time i did one i took a spring from a different mech also.

is the mechanism the internal door one(that you changed?) if not, that is likely the cause.. in particular a tiny spring in it(rare spares sell it)

if you turn the key to unlock or lift the knob to unlock at the same time then open the door with the handle and it works, its likly this spring is missing or broken..

otherwise.. more info or pics will be required

from My experience there is 2 types of shifters.

one uses that horseshoe bush, the other doesn't(guessing the older one doesnt and the bush was later designed for easy repair)

how much slop is from the shaft bushes in the alloy shifter housing? near 20 years ago i had that shaft turned down on a lathe a few thou  and oversize bronze bushes put in the alloy housing.. that solved much slop on the older one..

i will always ask these guys for my clutch needs
never had an issue with any parts got through them and always had great service and price.

not sure if they have what you want.. but they probably do..
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Sunbury-Brakes-Online

its not the pedal its the bit it mounts to.

have a look at where the clutch pedal mounts under the dash, its probably cracked. sometimes the firewall cracks also, but seeing the pedal is off skew it will be the pedal box i think.

does it fix the horrible noise that comes out the exhaust pipe on them?

can you put a scissor  jack between the leaf springs and the rim to try push it off?

i had a ghia wheel stuck on a ZL i wrecked once, didnt come off even driving with no wheen nuts and turning in the back yard.. bought a sledge hammer and belted it off.. its amazing how often a sledge gets used once you own one.

when the heads spin on the seat frame i just clamp vise grips on the bastards..

be sure to wire brush the bolts and spray with CRC or similar for added ease.

i have been known to be wrong on occasions..  but i'd say the bolts that go through the floor with nuts under (upto 1987? XF) would be all same as to XC and prior.

i have a 1988 XF ute which has the e series setup

might need to boil up some rusty dirty water to give it the "lived in a wreckers yard" look 

spray on "affected areas"

pics are awesome.. its like the sleeper equivalent of engine parts

i'm surprised by the results of porting the manifold. i read an article years ago about extrude honing (pumping an abrasive goo through ports of things to improve flow etc. cutting one open is something i hadnt seen before)

had me wondering if you could sand cast the external stock manifold then do the perfect port/plenum shape inside that casting.. then recast it in alloy having all the stock part numbers etc showing would be a cheeky way to go.

what crosses the line in "using the stock manifold?" cutting and welding, changing the internals.. complete internal re cast of the runners? etc

what sort of car? my EA sports cluster had the needle slip on the guage(temp one, but same setup) took the needle off and repositioned it and all good.

fit the wheels if thats what you are happy to do(legal, looks, etc )

then do 100kmh with a GPS or similar and note what the speedo reads (it may read 90kmh when doing 100 for eg)

then remove the speedo gear and see what number of teeth are on it.. if it has 19 for egsample(most common for 2.92 diff) you can get a 18tooth gear and fit it, and it will make about close enough from what i have done near 20 years ago..  if its out 2 km or so you can pluck off the needle and reposition it just to make it safer not to speed but thats only if its close otherwise it will throw the rest out.. not sure if the ghia cluster is adjustable(i have one in bits here but cant see any adjustment)

failing that, you can get a speedo corrector kit(jaycar do one and some other brands do them also) and wire it in, will be able to get it spot on with one of them from what i hear.

yeah, depends on what diff gears are fitted currently.

also if its an XF or later uses a different transducer which is 20% more pulses than XD XE one.

how far out is it? gears wont get it spot on, if its out 5km you will be lucky if you can get it closer with gears, usually one tooth different makes about 10% change.(10kmh ish measured at 100kmh)

yeah colour matching that would be a nightmare.  save your sheckles for a complete respray in factory colour and just run it how it is for that 'rat' rod look.  Will match the Mexican blanket perfectly.  Or you could just rub back what it there and hit is with some cheap arse clear.  I think PROTEC even do a satin clear now.  get whoever does the repair to top coat it in some red zinc oxide and rub it back a bit for that 'distressed' look and satin clear over that. 

 

Satin black stockies and dumped on its guts and it would be a sweet ride until you had the coin for a proper paint up. Just my thoughts

i like the found in a paddock look,  i'd love something with the patina if you can call it that of original paint that has been driven through a barbed wire fence and rounded up cattle etc.

the trick is how to replace the panels without messing with the look to much, a different colour guard from an Spack would suit me fine(at least the stripe matches)

its not everyones cuppa tea though

They look like they are from XG.

probably are same, My XF ute has them like that also as Noobus has explained, theres a reinforced edge on the later roofs there and it covers it up

looks like part of the ball joint is left on.. mine havent separated like that before?

i would agree with McFly and bash it off and bin it without seeing it in person

I drilled mine out, didn't take long.

think he means the marks in the middle, look spotwelded initially? the rivets are gone in the pic,

if they were spot welded(i wouldnt have noticed in the past i'd have bashed them off still anyway)

they are rivetted in

can't you just bash em off now

i use the jack method too, but beware of the paint (scratches never bothered me though)