deankxf

i'd be surprised if a 3.3 could pull 5th gear on a T5 even at 100kmh with 2.92 diff gears it probably has.
T5 has a 0.72 ratio 5th,

the 3.3 XE 5 speed (rubbish one same as a sigma used) had a 0.85 ratio 5th.

I've dealt withthat seller before. Nrap. Pretty good to deal with & in fact I received WASP parts from them. 100% positive feedback over 29000 trades, lists his phone number and email.

Gives a 3yr 60000k warranty.......can't go wrong really mate.

 

I think it's the parts that 'suzukisuper' sells that are shocking.

pretty sure the crap i got off suzukisuper were 60,000km etc warranty too, he would have happily given me replacements for the broken one(same quality)

the 100% feedback doesn't mean much either as i would have given A+ feedback seeing they fit and arrived on time, you cant leave feedback after a certain amount of time. (i just had an electric antenna mast fail after only 2 weeks in the car, i hadn't got to fitting it soon enough to leave feedback... not a dangerous part though,)

HOWEVER: are the TRW balljoints as good as you can get? are the parts fitted to historic race cars safe at 200kmh? and what brand are they?

its hard justifying spending more than the car is worth on parts, but with how quick most of the cheap parts wear out you are better off with the good stuff especially if you run expensive tyres,(i had a balll joint wear out in 6 months/20,000km that had a 40,000km warranty and it wrecked 2 perfect tyres worth far more than the part  )

i would fit TRW upper and lower ball joints, inner and outter tie rods and pitman arm and idler arm unless there is some better quality.  might cost $400 odd, but should last at least twice as long.

i wonder how good the ball joints are that are fitted to hotchkiss or global west types control arms? they are a different type of joint though(pressed in)

if it opens fine when you turn the door lock key or pull the lock knob up.. it will be the spring in the latch assy

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/Lock-Mechanisms-/33648/i.html?_dcat=33648&Ford%2520Series=Fairmont&Make=Ford

tank will fit, i fitted a ZL tank to My XE when i went EFi. not sure about ZJ/XD but the XE XF ZK ZL FD FE will fit. some are wider than others though, 65 ish litres to 80litre ish

efi fuel tanks have a bigger hole where the fuel pump/sender fits.
the tanks will swap over complete if that is an alternative.

My XE ghia had one of those when i got it, seemed to work ok..

looks heaps restrictive.though.

the ugly Impco 300a setup was the best i had on a 6cyl. far more reliable when new too.

That dont sound real well. thanks for the heads up.

at a guess, the original weighs twice as much.

reskinning an original or finding a good second hand one and fixing the dents would be the go if you use the ute for duties.

the aftermarket ones i have seen, (and had) were straight and fit well, much lighter. but BEND very easy.
don't stand or sit in the middle of them.
 

Well i replaced the neutrel safety switch and it wont start in Neutrel or Park, wtf is going on? The reverse lights work when its in reverse and the column selector is right hard to move when i do up the bolts for the safety switch.

 

It kicks over when you jump it from the starter.....

has it got a relay like the XF? if not, add one.

No i didnt think of that Dean, i'll concider it for next time. Theres a bloke on Ebay who makes the column linkage bushes.

 

How do you adjust it with a multimeter?

put the wires into the neutral switch plug. then again, if you were quick(not to burn out the coil with motor off), you could leave the ign on and adjust it in Reverse till the lights light up..

Cheers for the advice Dean!! Yeah dad sold a heap of Holley Grose Jets to Johnny Dyno back in the 90's and sold 2 to family friends of ours who raced V8 Commodore Cup.

 

Yep definitely going to take the Holley as a spare carby to Deni!!

 

 

Which way to rotate it? Left our right? It has elongated mount holes.

Well i've adjusted the safety switch acording to my gregerys repair manual using a no. 43 drill shank (0.89" or 2.26mm)

 

did you add an extra few poofteenths to cater for the wear/slop in the 30year old linkages?

i would do it with a multi meter normally. lock it into Park with the column shift, make sure the linkage is adjusted on the trans and IS in Park properly. then adjust the neutral switch till the meter reads continuity in park/neutral (and reverse)

i thought the neutral switch had adjustment in it, rotates on slotted mounts slightly

keep a spare wire that will reach  from the solenoid trigger in case it leaves you stranded one day(due to the neutral switch) can crank it on the positive post of the battery or put a switch on it.

needle and seat seems likely in this case for running rough... turn the petrol lock off into the middle and crank it over for a bit, if it comes good will mean its stuck needle and seat.

you should have fancy gross jet needle and seat for it in that shed? that might fix it.

PS... take the holley with you when you go to Deni... at least you have a backup if the themoquad packs up.

whats the centre console in that? ^^

i bought it from the tip shop.. TOYOTA something.. not sure what model though (had a joint to the console lid area but i cut it down to suit the armrest seat)

this is what i had last.
XF fairmont door trims
XF ghia steering wheel
EB fairmont ghia Series 1 seats (mine was a late XF 1991 so seats were E series mount type originally)

e series wagon fuel tank fits in XF wagons, but the fuel sender will need modified to work with the XF dash

you can also advance the timing by a whole heap by moving the plug leads on the cap one position around, i did that recently(2 places on a 4cyl magna as it was 180 degrees out.)

you do have the leads correct as per firing order?

thermoquads crack/break when you get a backfire on lpg(dual fuel) then set fire to the engine bay if you switch over to petrol. for dual fuel you should definitely run a holley, but in that case its hardly worth putting a kit through it as it will dry out and get a flat spot before long anyway(accelerator pump mostly)

Adrianphu123 makes a good point about the globes as well.

I also have the Phillips +100 globes, definitely better light, and whiter too, not yellow like most older cars end up with.

i'd still stick with the stock 60/55 globes, on high beam they see so far up the road you could double the speed limit.

and the 60/55 wont melt the chrome off the reflector as fast

i'd say the dimensions of the light assy over all would be the same. the brackets on them can be a little out but they are fairly adjustable. getting the gaps right should be possible. changing the glass lense wont affect its fitment i dont think.

adjusting the beam is the aftermarket weakness though and even if you get it right it wont be as good as the originals by far.

remove the heater tap, they corrode and fail internally often. could be just due for replacement.

if you can see the heater tap, change the heater setting from cold to hot and see if its moved the lever on the tap.. if so, its rooted.

if it doesn't move, then you have a vac issue somewhere.

Mine does exactly the same thing. There has to be a way to set it to closed.

 

Thanks for the info Chris, didn't know that.

air con guy i use to go to used to screw them shut(under the glovebox) so they would be constant recirc.

i have also noticed that the foam that seals the plenum to heaterbox often disintergrates so that can be another issue.

Cheers mate, couldnt remember what side lock it was, i had to replace mine when i bought my XF.

are you sure the locks are different left and right? i swapped mine over when the drivers one got butchered(by Me) the circlip comes off and swap the lever over from memory.

XH uses a winch to hold the spare tyre in place, XG spare wheel door lock is like the XA-XF, just a door lock, cant remember if its a left or right hand one??

i thought left and right door locks are same? just swap over the doover thingy..

the XG spare wheel lock should work then? what are the pano barn door locks like? if same, could get enough for 2 doors and ign with same key

Don't suppose that the door locks fit though?

they are different on the doors, i was oneday going to see if the XG/XH ute/pano spare wheel lock would work? as i had a feeling they are same as the XD-XF door locks.. needs investigationing one day.

you could fit XG/XH doors, but they are rarer and would need to fit the striker too which mounts a bit different.