deankxf

naturally remove the old dissy preferably at top dead center so you can drop the new one in with the rotor button pointing in the same spot so the timing is easier begin with

if you fitted that dizzy in place of the EST, all you need to do is join the 2 wires to the coil, red to + and black to - then unplug the est computer.(it will work with it plugged in, but mine had issues later on that were fixed when i unplugged it. if you have a backfire, and flat spot, check the dizzy cap and rotor button, i had one once where the cap was fucked and that blew my muffler up when it backfired.. flat spot on acceleration is likely to be accelerator pump diaphragm on the carby(if it was on gas, put a kit through the carby, all the gaskets and diaphrams dry out) i'd change the coil for cutting out issue also.. they are at least accessible on a XF.. near impossible on the later cars without a hoist

try wiggle the gearshift next time as i mentioned.. 6yrs for a starter is old enough to be on it's way out still, they don't make em like they used to..

i'm not going to google, but i suspect you are right

yeah, definitely could be inhibitor switch, if so, next time it doesn't start,(assuming in Park), try it in Neutral... and or go from park to 1st a few times on the gear shift and back a few times and try again

My van does it, solenoid on the starter motor is dodgy i reckon.. if you think it could be the switch, run a second trigger wire from the starter up to the battery area and try it next time it wont crank touch it on the battery + side(hot wiring the starter motor) can do this with the ign off, it won't start(for safety, just to check it.) if it doesn't crank with the hot wire it's the solenoid on the starter, if it does crank, it may need a relay for starter if it doesn't already have one(fit one first if it doesn't have one, they are often needed) it's possibly the ign switch but i haven't had any issues with them in 20yrs except on the XG (e series based)

An xe one will fit but the plug may be different. . Xf ones are in the instrument cluster

just watched all the current video's and subscribed to Tas Tuned Chanel, entertaining show! ep below shows the final with SLY250

video link to one of the youtube vids i'll watch later, build sounds interesting, SLY250 has spent a lot of time getting dialed in.. shakes up the V8 field with it even

not enough pics in this thread sounds like a well planned project

few vids i took

wish i kept it sometimes.. pic when i got i.. pained in gloss house paint... wasn't solargaurd .. faded fast bought a parts one(orange) and didn't get the rest done.. Dad's old one with Leyland v8, and VN hub caps

considering it looks like it clips apart, i'm betting its one of those magical fuel saving devices like Brockys energy polariser. slip it over the fuel hose, use the accelerator less aggressively and watch the fuel savings it's definitely doing fuck all in its current state, at best it's an electro magnet.. i'd go into under dash yoga mode and untie it from what it's not going to be connected to. actually.. unless the car is on gas? and this is for the safety cut, clips over a coil lead? never seen something so dodgy but it's possible

no idea what that flux capacitor is for? time travel in back to the future? 1993 version... what's the wire connect to? looks home made... electromagnet ?

take a look at the "fix" for the bypass coolant pipe that usually runs under the manifold and around the back of the engine to the waterpump.. if you can't spot it, look for the 45degree pipe sticking up behind the thermostat housing and near shock tower on left.. wonder what they have done at the water pump side?

they are not the XG top mounts.. so you need to decide if you can bodge it back with what you have or chase up all the bits to put it back how it was originally (hard to do in Tassie i bet, unless you can find someone wrecking an XG)

i don't have any reference of that, i don't even have a ford currently.. could probably ring a radiator mob and ask if that makes sense to them, or just try fit the new radiator which looks like it should fit with that bodge removed?

i'd be taking that lower brace off, looks like the lower radiator rest is there(missing rubber, you may be able to buy still? or use radiator hose rubber ?) how was it mounted at the top area? check your radiator hose size matches the water pump and thermostat and radiator outlets as different models at least had different water pump hose size(EF was smaller)

got a pic of the old radiator? could even be a commodore one? i think AU had the stake pins at the bottom also, but i didn't think they were wide like that is(unless it's offset to the left?)

this lower part looks home made or modified from another model, can see the lower strap from the XG part below it

the EF(XH) one fitted My XE better than XG, can't remember why i chose it.. may have just been due to the thermo's being easier to mount

wrecker ones will all be crap, unless changed recently .. the XG takes a one off radiator, doesnt fit any other cars..u

this is what i bought for mine, they are cheaper at even $100 if you look https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-XG-UTE-RADIATOR-1993-1996/320482843647?fits=Make%3AFord|Plat_Gen%3AXG&epid=902223126&hash=item4a9e441bff:g:UVwAAOxy79VRfRxf another for $113 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator-For-Ford-Falcon-XG-Ute-Longreach-6CYL-1993-1996-Auto-Manual/112482363556?hash=item1a3078a8a4:g:dPIAAOSwd3dZaby9

copper ones are expensive, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator-Falcon-XG-Ute-Longreach-1993-96-Auto-Or-Man-H-Duty-Copper-3-Row-NATRA/200625729527?fits=Make%3AFord|Plat_Gen%3AXG&hash=item2eb639aff7:g:5J8AAOSwrklVRqqb i'd first buy an alloy one and make sure the car is even worth investing $500 odd on a copper one if so..

that seat is impressive, we moved the gear shift forward on BGDAV's F100, but that probably would be out of reach for you unless you have a massive wingspan