deankxf

i used one of these pumps(contaminated it with metal probably now though) stuck a heater hose over the tube that is normally in the bottle, and put the other end inside the diff fill hole.. hooked the hook outlet over the oil change bucket and pumped it out mess free until the hook fell off the bucket.. https://www.ebay.com.au/p/1-Litre-Genuine-Tom-Thumb-Utility-Oil-Pump-CA586/1244713035 i have a cheap drill pump that may work also.. haven't tried it yet https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Drill-Powered-Pump-DIY-Plumbing-Water-Fluid-Transfer-Pond-Flood-Container/401518327652?epid=1339934510&hash=item5d7c5b7764:g:K00AAOSwuShaaKuL

I'd be happy with it because it will be covered in dirt in a day or so.. how well will it clean when washed is probably a valid question? is the polish going to help keep the dirt from sticking?

good luck, please let us know what it was if you find out. back and find out about the rest of the issues to fix up as you get around to it.. like the door handles, break because the door hinges need reco/ bushing etc.

as for the wheels... hurry up and paint one

usual answer for Me, (that's a no for anyone wondering) any time i have between now and Wednesday morning must be spent getting the gemini ready for dyno tune. good luck with the diff.. sounds like a gamble even still.

mine had the worn out selector shaft turned down and bronze bushes inside the shifter housing made oversize to suit. it was probably better than new..

when you say mechanic checked temp sender, there are 2, one is for the guage in the dash, and one is a switch .i assume much bigger, no idea what they do when unplugged, but it's been mentioned by crazy in earlier posts. i would say your issue will have been covered in this post, double check that nothing's been overlooked or checked wrongly

sure its not something simple? like a temperature sender/switch telling the engine it's cold therefore dumps more fuel in? i hadn't read the whole lot, but fuel pressure or injector issues would be the first thing i'd thought if not the AFM

once i fixed the wornout parts in My single rail decades ago.. it was like a shift kit lol.. i didn't see it needing a shift kit. it might be kinda cool though, and could be the only opportunity you get to do it(who knows how many he has or how long you'll have a 4 speed?)

looks interesting $160 +post definitely not just a cut down gear stick(My gemini stick is cut and it's surprising how much better it is) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-ESP-Single-Rail-Quickshift-Shifter-Modification-Kit/273177328679?hash=item3f9aa33c27:g:O7cAAOSw6gRa0bt5

but if the carby was tuned properly and it made more power.. it may be better all round.. that said, you'd expect ford should have got it right the first time too.. or close.. (i just booked the gemini in for dyno tuning at a carby specialist shop will let you know how that goes and costs)

considering how easy a diff is to swap, i'd try a 3.77 diff regardless.. on a 4 speed (no overdrive) it would make me feel better knowing it's cruising at a closer to overdrive range.. i've never messed with diff ratio's in 4cyls, but in Falcons, it makes very little difference going 5% one way or the other.. tuning can make more of a difference.

if it's 3.77 it will fix that in between gears issue you had on Marysville drive? 2nd was too low, and 3rd too gutless? now 2nd will be fine... its less than 5% different, which is less than going 2.77 to 2.92 or vice versa.. in saying that.. more torque and power will fix it.. = headwork

got a wanted ad on the group yet? could get one and fit it before then? be good to watch anyway.. i'm sure the waiting to run would kill some of the fun (calder drags, waiting is SOOO painful)

weld it before it breaks... its probably the pins holding the spider gears .. if so.. bang any moment from My experience

sure it's not a bush? if its one of the pins inside, it could be welded up like a CIG locker to get you by for a while.. (tempted to do that with mine before i change it.... just for FUN ) https://zippy.gfycat.com/WarmheartedColossalImpala.webm

is it back lash in the pinion and ring? or slop in the axels splines, i've had falcon ones with massive backlash that woudn't die.. My gemini has a constant whine and metal in the oil, it's shiney.. it's got me more concerned than any other diff issue i've had(blown at least 6 up in various ways

i just found out something.. when i right click open image in new tab the pic can be seen(photobucket broken link) so therefore, can be screenprint.. or snipping tool saved.

need to get the slides SLIDABLE... i've had them stuck in needing a sledge hammer to remove(even with the stupid spring clip holders removed)

its likely to be the same as an EA EB ED and good chance EF EL etc with a tow bar.. go big is what i've always heard when it comes to trans coolers, this one is double the size and half THAT price.. they should be $50 max used in my opinion https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-Row-Aluminum-Remote-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Auto-Manual-Radiator-Converter-Kit-/282584453591?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

one of those pistons screws in anticlockwise from memory i've nearly always wound those pistons back with multigrips.. because the tool sucks the wang i am fairly sure i've ignored a torn boot on one or two in the past also.. shit things, really need a kit to be put through them all

only person i can think of would be. @PRO250

been too long without an XE... or confused with gemini(similar in the dimming part? )

XDs and XEs didn't have the insert XFs XG XH had in there(for the 4" round speaker) pretty sure i've seen the 4x6? whatever fits in one's i've had 20yrs ago...all sounded crap anyway.. has anyone butchered the door trims yet? if so, just get some good 6" for the doors(i can't chop holes in door trims anymore.. too hard to find.. or get some butchered ones and save the originals..)

pull the indicator towards driver to flash headlights(when they are off) push it forward for high beam.. turn the headlight switch knob to full left i think and it clicks( that's interior light on)(don't forget it...on) also dims the instrument lights before it clicks?or brightens