deankxf

That's a win!

i've learned a fair bit buying the $100 gemini engine too(ohc, similar to a smaller E eseries engine)

email back a pic... Fire it up... drop it in...

might work, spray enough of it on the back of the pistion and the cold might shrink it and break the rust seal?

from memory it doesn't bolt on directly.. it may just be the flange bolt angle?(as in if you bolt the caliper bracket on, it would put the caliper on the bottom?) i had wondered if drilling new holes in the caliper bracket would work.. never did it though. what's wrong with the ZL center? if they are both 2.92 or 2.77 you could swap the center.. if one is 2.92 and the other 2.77 ratio you can't.. if you want a better ratio for the V8? might be easier to get an EB diff,(sedan) with tailshaft and hand brake cable. if you get the later one EB2 or ED you need to swap control arm bushes on one end or use spacers as the bush is better(wider) if you do this, you'll need to buy a flexi hose adapter to go from metric to imperial

brain fade..

not just ANY engine.. it's a Fairmont Ghia one..(could be ESP even?) JG32

definitely looks like a chunk of lifter. what is the top of the bore like? does look filthy inside for (if i owned it) 5 oil changes*(80,000kms)

the efi one doesn't have a fuel pump lobe on it (crow cams one did) the original EFI cams were common to wipe lobes, but then i reckon carby ones would have also but wouldn't have been as fussy as the efi to be able to tell.

pretty sure that heat shield fits the normal manifolds.. i made one fit My extractors once in an effort to stop burning my cables

it could be. if it had a cortina sump?

fire it up.. drop it it in.. she'll be right

kill rust black is an epoxy gloss, it's what i used to use on EVERYTHING i have since gone to big cans of supercheap gloss acrylic black from supercheap for half price because it's nearly as good but would react with other paints being acrylic. the wheels on my gemini are done in the supercheap acrylic, but you'll probably never see them clean anyway clear would help on them.. less gloss than the killrust

kilrust gloss black.. straight on the alloy, no clear needed.. done? $16

why not just buy an ED 5 litre fairmont?

i wonder if i can make a ricer mist jet for the windscreen washers.. "purge" at traffic lights.. wash the windows as the commodore races away

good to see you are getting into them again.. i spoke to the carby bloke i used.. he said to check your linkages will work on that new carby will work in the car and he can rebuild it for $350 ish depending what's wrong with it. he showed me on the weber book he has that even a 32/36 weber is suited to as small as a 1200 engine if the ports in the head are individual(not siamese like mini or holden etc) when i went to ask about My 32/36 carby i am using on the gemini., he said if it needs reco, it's better value to buy new (with a choke that mine was missing). but turns out it was fine, and My dyno tune ended up the same price as a new carby and no tuning...(much better after the dyno tune)

what's the "parts ute" condition? paint it red, stick on some outback stickers? AU engine ? no rego required perhaps(for testing obviously)

aka, wanted to keep it original looking

does it fit a falcon battery in it or only the skinny 4cyl types

interested in this.. it would be the cheap option for more power (stealthy if mounted under the manifold also) would be nice on the gemini what's the ring gap rule? don't you need wider gaps?

there is a rubber grommet that goes in the radiator, just so it has a little give for vibration. then the bolt goes through that into the brackets. there are nut and bolt shops that could give you nuts for those ford bolts easily if you were making your own mounting plate I don't have access to an XG, @SPArKy_Dave @Outback Jack @hendrixhc may be able to take a photo of the top mounts for you maybe.. from experience, i'd say any exhaust shop could make up a suitable mount in about a slab of beer time.... but in Tassie, not sure what's there @Mr Polson might be able to give some guidance depending where you are. if it was here, i'd have it mounted using push bike parts i found on hard rubbish with a bit of fuel hose for a grommet.. but then, for $50 odd you could probably buy the parts missing from a wrecker and have an exhaust shop weld in a patch for the drivers side hacked out section(exhuast shops are more likely to do small jobs compared to a panel shop for eg)

the top left is missing it's bolt in mount, that side is easy. that's for an XG radiator.. for AU, no idea sorry... i remember test fitting one 15yrs ago approx and it was easier to get a new correct XG one for some reason the top right(drivers side) i'd just make a plate and put a bolt through whats there and another through the radiator

the top XG mounts bolt on/in . got a photo of whats been cut? you'd need to chop an awful lot out to make it gone i'd think

easier than it sounds.. almost easier to become one yourself