deankxf

i'll lift the bonnet on mine later today and see if the secondary accelerator pump jet squirts.. i had a feeling it doesn't?

this also was a good video that helped me

if you have time to read, this is pretty simple to understand compared to others i've read. its for the 38/38 weber (main differences are that it has 2 idle circuits and both throttles open together) i was told this is the next step up from the falcon carby.. bolts straight on where a 32/36 or 34 ADM came off but may need linkage/cable adapting again.. it will show the circuit for the jets to venturies etc http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/38-38.pdf

need air speed through a carby to draw fuel, unless it's high revs you might not see it(i thought My gemini one was blocked also for same reason) could try the rag over the carby top at wide open, to suck the crap through.. this is what got mine going when it blocked up in Geelong and i limped it home(was primary that blocked) there isn't much to those carbys, i think i put a link in My gemini thread that shows the circuits. i'll go find it later

small carby worked.. put it back on for now.. bolt the diff in.. probably a half day job if you take your time.. .. how old are the wheel cyls.. if they are reasonably old i'd buy new ones because i've had them leak when disturbed. first thing i'd do is loosen all the brake lines now to make sure if you break one because it's rusted in you have time to get that fixed alsor buy the new oil and brake fluid to have on hand . for leaf diffs i now undo the shackle rubbers at rear to save lifting the diff over the springs.. depends what's easier(betting escort one is much much lighter than a disc brake falcon one though.) should be possible. i'd be more thinking the secondary venturi is loose and not drawing fuel rather than being blocked. but if so, that should be easy fixed.. jet comes out easy.. they are probably 1.4mm jets on the secondary.. whats going to block that? sure it's not too rich on the secondary and bogging down?

might be why my gemini diff blew also then..i needed a reason to hate them

yeah don't risk your back, you'll need that for living the dream wonder why the diff blew.. all that NA power of the 1300

crossflows seem to have an awesome ability to make the bolts loose on the rocker cover(i think it's caused by gaskets shrinking.. ) most people silastic the alloy rocker cover on without a gasket.. never leaks.. never creates a vaccuum issue.

answers to each.. 1.. rebuild the single rail, and it will be fine behind a windsor, fit an EB LSD and it won't break either.. enjoy(with 5 litre) even a 25 spline ghia lsd will be fine if you are happy with the ratio. 2. the EFI 250 crossflow in good nick will go better than a stock EB spec 5 litre.. .. doesn't sound as good.. back int he day the efi crossflow was a weapon. don't underestimate the value of XFs. for some unknown reason they are getting up in value.. maybe because you can make them look like an XD or XE very easily..(if you can find parts) if you fit aftermarket efi to the efi crossflow with the right mods it will hammer.. back 15 yrs ago, my tuner wanted me to fit Delco computer from VN and tune it with kalmaker software? something like that(i'm going to call him this week about same setup on My gemini.. source it all from wreckers) 3. could do that easy.. XF utes had carbys up to 1993. but they didn't have holleys or tripple carbys. 4. i bet if you got a spacer made to center the single rail in the 4 litre bell housing it would bolt on with 4 new mounting holes drilled and work fine(if it works) but a T5 is a direct fit in an XF because it was an option from 1986.. just had a T5 cross member(bent a certain way, but you can extend the current one to suit easy) i don't like the SOHC or the barra for that matter. but if you wanted to go that way there'd be write ups on it in here no doubt. depends what your budget is and what performance you want? i think a good efi crossflow with a LSD from ZK or ZL fairlane (or XE XF ghia FD FE LTD) 2.77 or 2.92 almost no difference. with good single rail would be heaps of fun. they can make 110rwkw easy enough. i'd assume going the biggest cam that the efi can handle(its' bugger all bigger) upping the compression ratio by whatever means suits(smaller dish piston or different head with smaller chamber) to run 98fuel at best potential. cold air intake(pod filter behind bumper with pvc pipe to the air flow meter.. ) 2.5" exhaust on extracors.. could be done cheap. or keep it stock .. what's wrong with it now? they used to go plenty good enough to thrash or.. for probably cheaper than all of the above? detail the XF, sell it for $2500? (haven't seen it) and buy a BA turbo falcon for $5000 odd and thrash the crap out of it.

would have fit in the back of a mazda 6 probably.. you need to pull the old one apart though we have a need to see the blown bits

i haven't kept up with it. the BA one we fitted to Daves clevo is fine, ground a big out to clear where it fouls and it works. could measure the distance from the flange to the teeth? compare to the XG one if it's out(don't bother in the car, almost impossible to remove)

what did the old rings look like on the piston

i reckon pull it apart and take pics..

simples.. pull it apart.. get diff oil everywhere to remind you the smell it has

the left one has symptoms of broken axel but i wouldn't expect the car to drive if so.. i'd say the spider gears are stuffed in the center if that's not making the tailshaft turn when other wheel is on the ground and you can rotate it.. what's so hard about putting axels back in? they aren't hydratrack ones(double splined)

definitely doesn't sound happy .. i'd love to see what its issue is, i'd probably pull it apart.. wouldn't take long to get the axels out and diff cover off for a look

not sure if this link will work. or the second. but there's an XD with fuel cell in the boot and 2 big pipes over the diff.. https://www.facebook.com/80s-and-90s-ford-and-holden-porn-753913551355483/?__xts__[0]=68.ARDLE1Zn5wthaJaLxXcUqB1xRUOZLkcdAyvcZhyAd-fTX6BmhOzjKe1BWlDIJFIO4Xq0ofjjUFJXXsusonMCjQtBtN9vqC-u72uS4bqeLafiMYJpDmasW5HN6RYRZM3wgiodZUhLhfTo2wwNWnGLncCHA-ZY_TZM3bqqwYtmJM_VU66q88iVCdUX4Sp3-ohisaVTdGDOB0Pe29xd1aSYgPtT&__tn__=k*F&tn-str=k*F https://scontent.fmel4-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44126770_1985811264832366_6418824535063134208_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent.fmel4-1.fna&oh=e3f10db28b079878570badb710b3e558&oe=5C8A79D9

Ha yeah! first thing i do with spoke wheels is paint everything black behind them(including brake calipers) does look good, i don't miss the interceptor look already either

yeah good fun.. especially when you've just painted the car.. (done that twice.. got to get the first scratch some time..may as well by from yourself)

yeah i've swapped the motors before for the plug reason. someone on here rewired the plug (sounds annoying) wouldn't surprise me if when wrestling with the bolt you've broken a plastic joint in the mech and that's what's binding the motor? no idea though without seeing it. 35yr old plastic isn't the strongest anymore.. (i was looking at My gemini one yesterday wondering how long it has left in it..)

might say in here.. year made? i can't be bothered reading it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fairlane_(Australia)#NC_/_DC_(1991–1995)

yeah if the wipers don't work, it's probably not possible to get them to move.. but that tip of making the wipers straight up turns it from monkey with hand in a cookie jar to a game of operation..(aka trying not to scratch paint..) but its heaps easier with them straight up. while you are in there.. vacuum all the dirt and leaves out of the plenum.. and put a flyscreen under the vent so it keeps the leaves out. i'd be surprised if it's the wiper motor suddenly dead, but if so, it's got to come out for that.. may as well give it some grease etc i'd probably pull the motor cover off and see if the bearings on the motor are full of rust also.(= at min, grease them)

could check the earth wire near the firewall.. wiggle it unscrew .. and re tighten. i assume you'd hear the motor going stiff if the socket ball things broke(haven't had one broken yet but they do) as for the stripped wiper issue, hopefully it's just the arm? if its the post, you might as well get another assy ? cant think of why else the wipers would stop other than the obvious, unplugged under the dash(bad connection) same for the wiper motor plug/earth, fuse.. switch itself..

depends how low it is too? because on BGDAVs XE it has 3.5 inch over the diff that's been squashed to 3" at best by the diff tube. you might be better off going under the diff why does it need twin 3.5" is it some humungus engine? or twin turbo monster

depends if it's series one or 2 for both EB and NC fairlane. but if the are both same it's direct fit. exact same.. the only difference will be if one is series one, the other series 2 the lower control arms are wider on Series 2. you can change the bushes to suit on one end of the lower control arms to suit.. or if your car is a series 1 and you fit a series 2 diff you can just pack out the difference with big steel washers like a tow bar has EF has different brakes and series 2 style lower control arm bush.. AU is a wider diff with EF style brakes.. would probably still bolt in but you'd be mucking around a fair bit