deankxf

you could ring 13ford for a verification letter, they'd send you out a build sheet and possibly tell you over the phone.

i've seen those adjusters work just by the spread of the shoes(can't remember how) but i've always adjusted them as tight as possible and still fit the drum on.. (pain in the ass if there is a lip worn on the drums)

there's possibly just a spring clip thing needing pushing down inside(i've never pulled one apart because i had heaps of spares.. would just play swaptronics) could try these guys in the end, they rebuild, regraph pretty much any dissy .. probably be a few hundred bucks. not sure of other mobs out there.. (my dyno tuner in Geelong used to rebuild dissys back in the day also. so maybe ask some tuners in the local area) https://performanceignition.com.au/

that plate looks like it could be there for 2 reasons? to prevent the axel tube getting squashed by 4 ugga duggas from the 18V 1/2" drive rattle gun(yes BGDAV... looking at you) or stop it getting worn by the bump stop plate? going by the one you took out, if it's not munted, then copying the old one should be more than fine. i'd have done it by now lol(with a hack saw if the noise late at night was an issue.. )

knowing Dave.. whatever get's it going the quickest.. only so many hours in the day(that aren't spent for a job or sleeping..)

i was just having a look, it's only needing a bit of clearancing at that area on the edge.. get the round file out? or grinder?

non original.. like a 1600 and 5 speed... yeah wait till the XF is finished then do that..

i took mine to him on the pretense of getting it there for dyno tune.. something along the lines of can you check this for shaft wear etc and see why it didn't run so i can drive it here to be dyno tuned(he was booked 2 weeks in advance for tuning anyway and probably still is.) to RECO one of those carbs is near cheaper to buy a NEW one ... i had in My mind if he can make mine work and tune it cheaper than just buying a new carby it would be miles better.. the time on the dyno made my car behave a heap better. oh, by the way, My 32/32 in the car only squirts out of one of those pump jets.. i'm now going to check the other one(maybe that's why it has a stumble at times, it does have a accel pump issue also though)

cant see it leaking out of anywhere unless it overflows out the bowl personally.. you should speak to or visit Nigel at the carby shop( just make sure you have an hour to spare.. he's not there Thurs or Fridays) Address: 1/5 Sherwood Ct, Wantirna South VIC 3152 Phone: (03) 9801 3984

does it leak because the needle and seat is crap? or or other reasons

what he said a coupe of days ago ^^ if it wont run on the primary without the choke it must be too lean? blocked jet? buggered gasket on top?

you'll figure it out.. the gemini was a pain in the ass to get the falcon carby working .. (the falcon carby pulls from the opposite side to a 32/36) one of My favourite sayings to people modding their car... keep it stock

so unclip it.. put it were it needs to be and tape it up with 5 or 6 zip ties roadkill style.. that's if it will work at that distance, is what i keep asking about if it gets full throttle on the carby from the pedal

just make another. bracket and bolt it on under it flat bar.. drill a hole in it(round) and file it out square.. bolt it on somewhere so it sits under that one.. or above it?

full throttle plus choke = never going to run right i mean, if you get in the car, press the pedal does the carby get full throttle now? (if not, if you unclipped the cable holder and pulled the slack out and wrapped some tape around it temporarily ... would it get full throttle then?)

thats why i suggested putting a stop on the pedal? to take up the slack? depends where it sits otherwise

does it get full throttle as is? be worth seeing how it feels when the diff is done first. might not be jetted right anyway for the 1300?

can cut the spring.. moving the mounting only an inch isnt going to make that much extra kink.. would that linkage on My carby work for you? (could be a kickdown cable link? or cruise control?)

that's My first thought.. take the slack up there.. providing its travel is ok

can you still get full throttle with the pedal? has the accelator pedal got a stop on it to adjust it down a bit(to take up the slack?) if you moved the cable holder further out, would it get full throttle before the floor(it would take the slack up if you made another cable holder further away)

not sure what the guy said this was off? but it was advertised as from an escort.

i don't understand what you mean by having too much cable travel.. eg.. if you unclipped it from its current holder(that i circled) and held it lower and to the driver side a bit more.. would that take up the slack.. and if so.. it just needs a new holder "there" (make a bracket) or does the current contraption change the pedal to carby ratio? actually, on My spare carby it's got a modded linkage, it might be exactly what you need? back in a few mins with a pic

need something like this UNDER where the current NEW cable clips in

what do you mean by control unit? the guage/switch.. it wont work on petrol without the wires hooked up there that need to switch the injector relay on(that's my guess anyway) cant tell really by description