deankxf

it may be redundant wiring for wagon rear windscreen washer motor or something like that also.

is the low coolant sensor on the radiator connected?

how many horns has it got?

if it's doing it at idle, you can tip a bit of water on the belt and see if it goes away... might be the belt only

need a pic, but Mark has a NOS left light corner

@SPArKy_Dave probably should move all these tutorials to a dedicated thread for how to understand things working. no one will be looking for them in an escort thread in years to come?

you're not the first person, it's cool i think looks pretty close on the screen for me also, only i've met Chris and knew his name before seeing the POISON miss spell

good reason to upgrade to a 1.6.. though.. if a 2 litre bolts in... i know what i'd do(driven one briefly in a TE cortina.. grunt...)

i'm pretty sure Dave's needed machining for stuff regardless even for the 408. i didn't follow that side of it and no real interest.. HOWEVER the torque it has at 2000rpm with 3V heads is impressive, if you can justify the fuel bill something that made power to 6500rpm and torque from probably not much over idle would be awesome.. goal of say low 14s with wheel spin with 2.92s would be mad for a mild build.. you could probably do similar with a well built 351 crank though and careful thought on headflow and cam etc .. would save $4000 in stroker and probably similar on heads and manifolds and other custom crap(extractors expense also)

yeah it happens.. was broken anyway. at least driving a 1.3 escort in anger isnt' like a barra turbo where you'd probably end up in a tree.

HDD computer geek speak or revhead.... hard diff drive.. yeah can understand the busy/motivation level.. good to hear it's enjoyable again and being used put at min a silastic or window chip tape or even sticky tape over the headlight and it will be good enough until you get another.. i left one open and it got ruined from water(unusable)

@Mr Polson aka poison you know you need to accept that name

i think they'd be the same, can go bigger than 408 in the Dart because BGDAV was considering it(wishing he did it) but the issue is how strong is the block Vs the horsepower goal.. remember again, the bigger the cubes the better the heads you'll need(or you'd just be spending money for no benefit)

You have Me wondering if my bathurst globes need cenering rings now or if it's just tyres/wheel balance. They are correct shanked nuts so I thought it would be fine. How's the new diff? Is it fine? Picsof inside the old one not loading ; )

stupid cars.. so what's it need hub centering rings? or better shanked nuts? or both.. are the headlights made from unobtainium or expensive or just something else to buy? how's the diff(and what died in the old one )

the other method of choosing(from gemini reading pages and pages of info) is fix the cheapest restrictions until you run out of budget.. so, gemini stock manifold is super crap aparentlly .. extractors fix this fairly cheap.. then better exhaust.. also cheap.. then camshaft/valve springs.. then ignition.. do you have any money left? better carby/intake/porting,compression and bigger cam again.. still want to over capitalize? there's far more from here.. on the windsor.. as Thom has suggested.. Headers.. exhaust.. what's the next crap thing? probably heads?(not sure) got any money left ... nope.. rest is stock then ..

death wobble is asking for death... interested in the bump steer correction if so, because My gemini wagon after lowering suffers it enough to warrant raising it.

for sale or going in the XF? when you said you were looking for one, i thought it was to use

i suspect you are guessing.. pics not loading

yeah can understand that, especially since the XF needs some attention anyway.. when are you pulling the old diff apart? we need to know what broke

considering the foam was dear when i went to a foam mattress joint(and cover was a pain to make) and you can't sleep on the wheel arches anyway. .. i'd get a single mattress(maybe king sinlgle if it fits length ways?) and maybe stuff cushions or blankets or doover whatsits in the gaps on the side.. i was doing this for My econovan, but because i had enough height, i spaced up the mattress by building a frame to the wheel arch height. one of My mates was considering measuring the wheel in the arch height and cutting the arches down and plating them flat and building a similar false floor over the arches for the van. not sure you'd gain much.(My econovan also measures wider above the arches than below, so it fits a queen size in rather than a cut down middle of a double.. )

i think My google kung fu is strong. .. terms i probably used were "Ford paint code CZ" there's a reason i used ford and not falcon. back 25yrs ago i wanted a burnt orange ford colour of the XE ESP..(now i know it's called Chestnut) i knew i'd heard of the colour burnt orange, and the paint shop had it as a FORD LASER colour. after looking at the paint swatch, i chose French Blue.. (reason i wanted the Chestnut colour is because the car was a gold colour and i thought i could just blow over the door jams etc without going to much effort.. but the blue i ended up doing semi properly.. taught Me a good lesson.. don't change the colour of the car lol

WHY YOU NO GOOGLE! first google i tried(not sure if it's it?) https://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Ford/2003-Ford-Thunderbird-Robins-Egg-Blue-Metallic-Clearcoat-CZ-M7098.html

the NSW police was a light blue, not really white. i'm sure i've seen that very light blue on something.

yeah , as above.. 4 speed or 5 speed? what oil? gearbox oil is the wrong oil .. by top loader i assume it's a 4 speed.. and if so it's likely a single rail, not a top loader(unless someone fitted one. unlikely) can you get reverse from idle easily.. if so, it's probably not clutch related. if it's a bastard to get reverse i'd say it's adjustment needed only