deankxf

i can't work out what you mean there above. but you reminded me that, if it had an oil switch instead of the sender unit (povo pack cluster) and you fitted the s pack/ghia cluster, that goes straight to full from memory.. but wouldn't do it unplugged. i'd be tempted to run a new wire from the oil sender to the cluster and see if it works... if so, the other wire is shorting out somewhere

i cant' think of anything.. i would have thought that wire runs from the sender straight to the cluster with nothing tapping into it. i wonder if the cluster earth is bad, whether that would be a side affect, i doubt it though

almost identical 1/4 panel rust to what My red XE ghia had. (i fibreglassed it, because no welder)

the steel? to fix rust or the rubber seal? might need to get a cut from a wrecker for the steel? not sure on the rubber seal, would assume ther'd be one

they are fairly simple cars, i did a 351 conversion to My XD and XE, the XD wires unwrapped just plugged in to the V8 plugs other than the air con wire needed to be longer. the XE was EFI, and i just bought an engine bay loom from a carby one and plugged it in under the dash.. simples(also 6 cyl, repeated the XD step, extending one wire)

you have no issues with the senders, somethings earthing somewhere i suspect. .. might need to unwrap the wires and take a look? unless you are missing an earth wire, i cant remember what issue i had back in the day

does it do the same when you unplug the senders? they will be no different EFI to clevo so not sure what you've actually done(hidden wiring?) if they still go to full unplugged, they must be shorting out somewhere is my guess

there are build threads here with great detail, just need to go through them.

you'll have to go back to metal near the battery area i suspect. you'll have to go searching for painting tips, they've been covered in detail in many threads recently

looks pretty tidy!

could paint it yellow and call it the ANGRY TAXI, You TALKIN to ME!

i thought the best part of the BA was the engine? clevo is a gutless lump unless worked, and you still need a decent gearbox if you are going to thrash it.. i'd go LS engine if so with a 6 speed, probably bolt in pretty easy.. still be EFI though.. be legal also if done right.... could buy a commodore with one already fitted cheaper though, and stick a ford badge on.. not many kept the holden badge anyway, whats the difference?

if you've got a few hours to skip through this series, Peter Anderson (has lots of videos on car resto) has just gone through probably everything you are thinking of with a sigma. part 1 below, he's upto part 7 and the thing is almost a bare shell now.

door glass, not sure if it's in the gregorys book, but you can remove door glass (the big ones) out in 5 mins each if the door trims are off. the 1/4 windows can be pretty hard to remove in the rear doors, not that hard. but depends on who's doing the job

ring pedders?

i prefer lows because the car still drives fine (not much bump steer, and has suspension travel still)

some of mine have been 4x4 height with engine in .. xe wagon i wrecked was the highest without an engine though..

love the number plate! i wanted to get IHU 000 but i figured it would be not fair on the fire or ambos and the "good" cops.

what's that sticker mob @SPArKy_Dave they had a lot and would make them?

the stock EFi system wont like a lumpy cam from what i heard when i was considering it for mine.. (My dyno bloke at the time was trying to get me to fit VN Efi because he had the software to tune it, but i went straight gas instead because it was already dual fuel)

from memory crow cams had ONE only that was suitable. i have no idea on the other brands.

the only info i can suggest is the computer won't tolerate much difference in a cam, make sure you tell the cam mob it is EFi, they go good when they work properly .

cheers for the feedback. My XG ended up getting starter motor, was weak also.. fuel pump relay, pretty sure the gas was hooked to it so still was giving issues on both fuels, and in the end ign switch.. i found the ignition switch to be stuffed because sometimes you'd start the car and turn the lights on, and the "LIGHTS ON" warning would be on, as if the key was off, few other things at times also, maybe the smart lock light flashing as if the key was off even thought the car was running? can't really remember because i burned the nightmares out of My brain after i sold it.

this quote is my favourite from the link above Re: Fixing stuffed smartlock modules - How To - For FREE by 89.SVO » October 6th, 2012, 7:01 pm i worked for RACV and all we did was bridge the red w/ blue trace (i think, can't 100% remember) wires. Fixed every one. Even had to do it on my Dads partners EB at one stage

googled this for you.. if you can take pics of it, and post it here would be great if it works. i almost did it to one of My cars, but turned out to be ignition switch for mine. https://www.tiperformance.com.au/knowledge-base/smartlock-explained-how-to-fix-common-smartlock-problems/ also links to this page http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=18905