deankxf

between the 6 or so My Dad, brother mate and myself they were always running hot in summer in traffic, used 50% more fuel than a crossflow that did 90% the same otherwise. made the car handle worse because of the big heavy lump of iron, bastard to work on, especially with air con and lpg. i probably had a bad run compared to crossflows. they make a nice noise. that's about the only good thing i can say about them personally.

this blokes name was Ben, lived in melbourne cbd area or within 10km i think. yeah i got fined once slowing down after passing an old bat doing 85 in the 100 zone, i think i was clocked about 115.. i'm sure i saw her give me the finger as she drove past.. i'd like to have hunted her down and get her to pay the fine she caused. (wasn't like it was a datsun 120y.. she was in a newish car well capable of high speed cruising)

I'd be waiting till the new thermostat turned up, i'd consider getting the car on a dyno to see what it does and if it's tuned right and if the temperature gauge is even accurate. i'd not sell it, because you'd lose heaps.. if you can do some research finding someone that knows whats going on you'll be able to enjoy it. i hated My clevo, and working on BGDAV's one has brought memories of it.. but i had a dyno bloke sort mine and it did 80,000kms pretty much only needing oil, filters and spark plugs. i did a lot of highway driving, and corners, and the crossflow 6 was better for both. just didn't sound as good. i had crossflows for near 20yrs after that clevo. (I had a 1UZ in a falcon about 10yrs ago, in my opinion that engine is better in every single detail other than sound at idle.. couldn't hear it)

what's silvia powered? the CA18 or the SR20 the bloke that did My head up said the CA18 is super over engineered and wondered why people bother working the SR, (the SR20 is better stock) i sold a kids bike to a police officer recently, rocked up in some focus thing(might have been something else), said he was a cyclist also and got hit by a car and the guy wasn't going to pay til he said he was a cop.. was thinking in future, just saying you are or know a cop would probably change the attitude of a situation. that's a good idea for a intro session, question to the group.. raise your hand if you are a cop..

i was told that's a sign of a blocked radiator, but it could be a trait of a triple flow radiator?

good to see the little beast getting out and about, especially in a tour of the mountain ranges, in all weather ' how good is having spare parts on hand and tools to fix things! well done on that plan

first place i'd look is vacuum hoses, then the idle control solenoid.

that gasket is on back to front?

blocked Cat on My XF once made it run warmer, but it was GUTLESS mostly.. would barely do 60kmh (fairly blocked but obviously not fully) i think you'd see other symptoms ?

that would be the easier option, but you can swap the lock assy over if that's all you can find(removing the column will make undoing the tamper proof bolts easier. )

fan resistor is usually the issue(rather than the switch) its the coiled spring looking thing in the heater box behind the glove box.. sometimes it's bad connections, just needs removing and check.. refit.

if you turned the ign barrel guts OFF without the key barrel fitted = GAME OVER.. i did it to a mate's car once and it made an ominous CLUNK.. that's it.. replace the whole lock assy. the key barrel comes out in the acc position, with it out, you can start the car, but turning it OFF = CLUNK.. no more operation the lock ass has snap off bolt (one or two? cant remember) they can be removed by sometimes chiseling them undone a quarter turn to losen then pliers. can cut a slot in it with the dremel for a screw driver if careful, but may still be too tight. if the car has smartlock you'll need to have ign on for 30mins with the new lock assy to re learn it. anti theft.. this is the reason theives are breaking into houses for the keys these days

that said, slydog's one revs past 7000.. far from stock though

or buy brass hose clamps with decent wire.. My spotlights had almost as good wire as the factory engine earth lead.

I ground the fins off my sump, but I also modified the k frame in my xh (I never advertised that fact at the time because to legally modify the k frame you need an engineers report) ah, yes, i'd seen that done a few times now also.

i didn't know there was an "off the shelf" one. ever.. most people have removed the sump, taken to someone that can weld alloy and cut and plate for clearance.. i saw one for sale once for $70, used.. someone had done it for XF or XG, i didn't think @Thom cut his one, just ground the ribs back..

i don't think you could have possibly finished reading those threads yet. XPT means RECONDITIONED stock bottom end for FRESH.. i think you can go a long way with just ARP rod bolts but, i'll ask what your budget is, because you won't get much change from $10,000 for that power level at a guess (reliably)

i would suggest you read both of these threads.. then decide if the cost is justified? or in the budget. there's a LOT of info, and heartache, and reality. My question would be.. why do you want 300hp NA if you are going to turbo it.. could probably turbo straight up for cheap and get 300hp relatively easy.

if it's got an issue with the accelerator pump circuit in the carby(mine has) it will get a lean spot and stumble a little, if that's the "miss" you mean. can also be jetting related you could take pics of the plugs for someone like gerg, chestnut etc to eyeball the mixture setting..(if they are black it's too rich, and melted too lean in my experience)

you could ask the mob who supplies the kit, where ign timing/ plug gap suits best for the electronic conversion. i didn't re gap My plugs, i'd only close gaps if i was having issues with spark, unlikely on low compression engines

that's interesting about gapping the plugs, what's the setting? and what ign system is in it? the dyno guy that set up My gemini wanted to see a fatter spark on My car and wanted to open the gap but i didn't have the GT40 coil then.. i wonder if it could do with checking the condition of the points or gap or "dwell"(i haven't read up on that) or has it got electronic conversion i can't remember

now it can take either.. i modded the petrol gemini to take either a falcon or commodore battery.. issue with some of the ford batteries is they don't have the lip on the bottom for the XF clamp. because they use a "short circuit clamp" *(metal bar running along the middle of the battery close to wires and posts)

My gemini diesel battery died recently also(700cca truck batery), cold weather will test the battery condition. it didn't hold a charge, finished at 12.8v perfect, but sat for 2 days and back to 10V.. stuffed. currently using a $25 wrecker battery from a falcodore 500cca, does the job but i'll be looking for a better replacement soon as i can afford one. good to hear it was only the battery.. on the road again

tripple core wide copper one should be fine.. providing the rest of the system is good. the alloy ones are said to be good, however i haven't owned one. BGDAVs 351 is 60thou over bored. was fine.. most builders like to stick to 30 though as a max, not sure that's for cooling or other reasons though

sorry for slow reply, yes alternator to battery. cant remember if it goes through the fusible link, if so, the issue could be due to that also(bad connection, remove and replug it several times and may come good for a while if not ok when testing.)