deankxf

it's still going to have the clicky click issue with a new battery most likely, arcing/tarnish on the solenoid contacts internally

starter on an XF is probably the easiest car in the world to remove, 2 mounting bolts, fat cable from the battery and the trigger wire if it works when you tap on it, then it's the common "cheaper to replace" but fixable issue the later starter motors work. gear reduction type. personally if there's a local auto electrician that rebuilds them i'd have it rebuilt, in My opinion they last heaps longer than the newer ones (new ones are lighter with gear reduction offering more power and lighter/smaller package) if you have to hold it in park to start it, this is adjustable from memory (try it in neutral first) could just be worn shifter bushes etc making the adjustment out. @SPArKy_Dave might make it simpler to understand

if it has an airflow meter (assume so? mates EL V8 does) i'd start there, try cleaning it with some spray or borrow/swap another in. i had this with the pulsar i had a few years back, (same type but smaller size) otherwise, @SPArKy_Dave and @Thom are the resident EFi 5litre gurus may reply later with more to check

bumping this for new members

I can't advise any oil pressure numbers, it's likely listed in the gregorys etc though, feel free to start a project thread to document anything you do in the build. i could retitle this thread as your own even if it's mostly crossflow related @SPArKy_Dave may have more info, as he does checks like this due to being more meticulous. (I've either got someone to reco a full engine or chucked in a second hand one, and that's usually not oil pressure related, just extreme wear overall)

looks to be some decent thread there still if you can stack a couple of good washers on the outside of the selector arm and then fit a new nut where the ok threads are.

bugger, should just unscrew in the normal direction, looks crimped over like a lock nut which i don't remember it looking like that (might be the wrong nut sent home cross threaded?)

i thought it just came undone (lefty loosey) and the shifter rod came off? @SPArKy_Dave any tips

pretty sure i've used them as is. i didn't notice any difference but panko said it was better with it in his XF

i think the mounting point for watts link is lower on the AU diff, which better suits the XE XF watts link when you lower the car. (don't think the arms themselves are swapped)

the handbrakes only differ due to the EF having the hand brake mounted next to the console from memory. the only one i remember seeing the person cut the cables about where the back of the fronts seats would be and joined there with cable joiners. you'll soon see what's needed once you mount it up as much as you can

if you can run the brake lines on the XE to how they are on the EF that's one way, or you can do them on the diff similar to the XE XF way also seen it done both ways, (no pics handy) and the EF lines on the XE looked easier handbrake you'd be best getting a new one custom made, back in the day (20yrs ago) i was quotes $120 from ABS brakes to make one, these days you'd be surely double that if anyone has the brains to do it. you can cut and join the cable with cable clamps and make a hybrid of the 2 in the short term and prove it works before getting the cable made up also. tailshaft will fit if it's a sedan XE and Sedan (not fairlane/LTD) EF (would be if XR6 sedan, not if wagon )

can see the FATNESS of the koni and the pedders, this makes all the difference, CONTROLLING THE SPRING. the white pedders i've had in a standard height car and they are great for stock height upgrade in my opinion bump steer city,. if you drive it in Melburbs and on the highway it will not be a pleasure to drive compared to LOWS. (also looks too low to Me also)

some people like to drive their cars

King Lows with crap standard shocks ots very likely hitting bump stops .if the bump stops have been cut its likely bottom out the shock also

what height are the new kings? LOW or Superlow (2" sounds like low which should drive well) some wheel aligners wouldn't even guarantee the tyres wouldn't scrub with superlows fitted back in the day. did you check all other parts of the suspension also and get a good alignment (ideally pedders in my experience )

the rears are fine with standard shocks the fronts are best with big bore lowered shocks (ultima brand on ebay are the cheapest that seem to be ok) i've always used second hand big bore pedders and loved them, koni even better if you have the budget. what springs did you fit? cutting stock springs = in the bin buy king or pedders etc, you don't end up with much bump stop clearance with even LOW springs (approx 2" ) and Super Low you'll have to cut the bump stop down a bit also in most cases. . super lows = bump steer, (handles like a billy cart in my opinion) so LOWs are the lowest i ended up going in the end. lowering blocks in the back are fine at 2" generally with no issue with standard shocks.

i know when i did those slides i wouldn't have had anything other than wheel bearing grease or never seize (silver stuff) and from memory that's what i used (silver anti seize) Just make sure they slide in the holders easily (they get like a slot worn in them being alloy, i remember ditching one of the retaining clips once and just letting it sit there held by the pins) anti seize the pins also, make sure they slide easily. if the rubber hose from the diff to the caliper is original and 40yrs old it could be the issue also, swelling under pressure and not bleeding back (i guess if you wanted to risk it, swap it left to right, but these can also be the source of much pain in the backside undoing the rusty nuts on the line) I got charged $400 once due to "getting a mechanic" to do the job because i didn't want to.. i told them i'd have bought another diff if it was that hard and had a go at them (was a weeks wages back then). they said it was the worst day of their lives lol..but it's fixed now properly with warranty. grr i never had issues again at least

it should be in the gregorys manual, i don't have one available, and i haven't ever pulled one of these apart. @SPArKy_Dave may help. i feel your pain, i preferred drum brakes after dealing with these.

@Seamus just fixed his with My guidance in his thread. check out this page on his thread, (toot toot chugga chugga big red car) feel free to make a how to thread out of all the info and i'll make it a sticky (i don't have time, but basically everything is covered in that link including bad solder joints likely with yours as ZKFAIRLANE mentions in there

yeah now you mention it, i broke my first pointy nose pliers turning in the piston on one, then got the correct tool and broke that also (had to fix it, then screw the piston in the correct rotation )

they are the most asshole of any of the ford calipers the handbrake levers often seize up also. @SPArKy_Dave may know where to get the kits and the tool also for winding them out i've always had enough spares i've swapped them(15yrs ago was the last one) i think i traded 6 crap ones for 2 reco ones once also.

yes, it screws back there's a tool for it, but at a pinch i've used multi grips and or the square ends of a normal plier set to slot in the notches to turn it. i have a feeling left and right are turned in different directions (left hand thread on one i think) @Mr Polson may be able to confirm and link to the tool

its the same caliper as an XE XF fairmont ghia ZK or ZL fairlane would be the best to search for probably or FD FE LTD those bolt hex's if you turn them and they don't turn the bush in the caliper mount they should come out. (grab with vice grips and twist and pull is best with heaps of spray where they go into the slide) asshole of things, i've cut them off in the past(when i had spares) here's what they look like removed from the caliper bracket and fitted back into the slides

i'd find another motor, can't be that hard to find another if i get a chance i'll type how to fix wiper park position into youtube, i'm sure it's been an issue before