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looks on first glance like an XH spare wheel winch part but the number doesn't come up in google etc For auction is a Ford Nos XD bracket. Part number is XD-17C792B. Have no idea what this is. Can't say I've seen one before. Have had no luck in researching the part number. A mate of mine thought it may have something to do with station wagons. Please do your research before bidding to ensure suits your needs. Item is in great condition. Please use pictures to form part of the description. Combined postage offered other parts listed

it will self bleed, but you only need to crank the engine for a second or so and the pump will need topping up again, so do that a few times so the pump doesn't run dry (they can get noisy if running with no fluid for longer than 10 seconds even) good question the silly question is one that isn't asked (that's what our trade school teacher taught us anyway)

that's possibly stuffed because the steering column is further back than it should be. (needs tapping down/levering down so the rag joint is not distorted) i can't remember on the power steering ones, i think they bolt in from the centre of the shaft @SPArKy_Dave to the rescue again. probably is doable in the car if so. but i'm not sure if there's any traps to look out for (aka should it be in the straight ahead position or full lock when doing the nut up etc)

Coil is a common thing to shut down when hot. that would be the first thing i'd swap. if the coil is HOT when it conks out, that would be enough for Me to swap it. if it's cool, then maybe look elsewhere, does it fire up again soon after or need to wait for something to possibly cool down?

i saw this pop up on My youtube, and he looks like he does most of the work with only one arm even. My rule, if it's not broken, don't fix it keep it stock (why would you fit a FG engine? just fit another BA engine or buy an FG car when the BA is stuffed?)

good luck with the sale, I've given up on several cars that did My head in over the years. right thing to do at the time, and i rarely remember them unless i see one for sale 10times the price i sold it for.

They will work but not be working properly as far as I know. ( my brother had an eb series 1 with auto ecu due to the 5 speed conversion was from an EA centrepoint injection car so he couldn't use that ecu) I think the main issue is it will idle at higer revs

did he change the fuel pump? if not, that's the only way fuel can get in the oil as far as i know . check your oil level OFTEN if the fuel pump wasn't changed.

copy the side that works i guess

i've moved the pivot point for the inner handle i think on rear doors twice (to take up slack) have the rods been fitted wrong? is it meant to have a kink in it? 5cm is miles out, haven't got the left handle in the right door etc?

what tyres and suspension is it running? i liked zero deg camber, and 2mm toe in can't remember the castor @SPArKy_Dave probably has the same ideals if he remembers

crossflows will run with sand in the oil, but it's not ideal on a rebuild spec

Woo! radiator leak accessible? might be an easy repair for a radiator shop. got to love it when it starts easy and runs smooth

this to Me points to fuel pump leaking fuel into the oil (fairly common back in the day) could try change the fuel pump next. if the petrol is getting in the oil, it can evaporate and go into the carby (too rich) as vapour and make the engine run rough (with air cleaner lid fitted) (if it runs better with the lid removed, this could be a good diagnoses of fuel in oil causing the running rough, other than fouled plugs ) remove plugs, wire brush and refit, run with the air cleaner lid removed.. if it runs good, change the fuel pump ASAP some small amount of fuel in the oil(from today's run) will clear up on it's on, but if there's lots, you would be advised to change the oil again to minimise risk of bearing damage from compromised oil.

rear grab handles? i could have told you that (i remember removing them on something

Great to see an update! definitely good progress and a good plan. that cable end kit looks a great idea

in the current episode, i skipped through it a bit, he was talking about buying a property somewhere that he can store and rotate his cars through. (sounds like he plans do drive them all)

peter Anderson (youtube) latest video has bought a ZK fairlane and it has this cupcake tray also

OOOHH I had this issue once also then. i didn't pick it, i didn't have many cars that had this style seat, and once i got over the fact they weren't a "head rest" and the Girl Friend at the time fit her pony tail knot in the opening, it was the best thing ever invented apparently. if they marketed it as a pony tail void, they'd sold double the amount lol

baking tray for cupcakes?

We are always interested in what the solution was, it can help the next person. even more so if you can remember his diagnosis procedure. eg, has good battery, engine cranks fast enough, checked for strong spark at plugs, how he'd check for flooded or no fuel. and so on. once you know, it applies to lots of things. why the whipper snipper won't start after 6 months with stale fuel in the shed (drain the fuel, put fresh fuel and run it mid/off season, same for anything 2 stroke particularly )

it was running, then wasn't so i can't see the timing being out(unless messed with) if it has spark, it should just work

if it has spark, it really should fire unless it's fouled plugs or flooded (too much fuel) before you call a mobile mechanic(guessing $200 min charge? min) you could remove the spark plugs and take a look, if they are wet (flooded) leave them removed for a few hours if possible, fuel will evaporate or black/rust, try wire brushing them, and refitting (wire brush them if wet from too much fuel also) if you've been cranking it and cranking it, it's likely flooded, especially if pumping the accelerator pedal

if it fires with a spray of something in the carby top(even WD would do it etc) then it's fuel supply issue. can be many causes, check the fuel hoses don't have cracks in them, sucking air instead of fuel is something i've seen a few times on XD to XFs and that was 15yrs ago.

BGDAV has these in his XE, the lower control arm bush hole is too small for XE XF (had it drilled out to whatever size they are meant to be ,14mm rings a bell?) they are very very strong and heavy units, and pretty well priced it seemed at the time (factoring in putting new quality ball joints and bushes in factory arms)