deankxf

could pour warm water over the converter and if it starts fine, you know its the converter. when in good condition gas shouldnt be an issue in the cold.. mine was cross firing the other morning from moisture on the cap and leads etc.. thats tune related, of which they are way overdue(been on the car 18 months, but came with the motor that sat under a tree for 3 years prior)

never tried this stuff but its meant to re join broken tracks in the demister. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Rear-Window-Demister-Repair-Kit-Brand-New-/400379264670 as mentioned, check you have power at the window first with a test light or multimeter(guessing it wont if the light isnt lit on the dash)(the globe in the dash might be part of the circuit even, so might pay to check the globe too?)

gas wont freeze up when its cold, cold does cause issues sometimes, usually with the crap thats in the converter(waxy by product in the gas builds up over time) when its cold, the wax stiffens and valves cant open. can pour warm water over the converter first up to test if its this.. if its fine, likely needs cleaning. also old diaphrams inside the converter stiffen over time which are worse when cold. Landi converter like my car has is most common for cold start issues(have only had 3 issues in 5 years though) when the wax is an issue, manifold vacuum pulls the valve open as it should and the wax build up prevents it from closing, so it floods with gas and can freeze the converter.. (trick to get going after this is to turn the switch to no fuel.. crank it till it fires meaning all the gas is gone then go get some water and tip it over the converter.. or flick it to petrol instead.. sometimes this is one off, sometimes it must be cleaned.

is that an FB(feed back) or CA (clean air) impco 225? what did you slot i think i read that FB type idle richer so they can be trimmed using the impco commander system(1991 onwards injected cars)

theres not much to them, gently lever the outter cover off the plastic pins, watch out for the spring loaded ball i think is in there and clean the contacts inside.. will be good as new if you dont break it or lose the bits lol..

if the high beams flash its not the high beam relay so you can swap it with the low beam(they rarely play up) relays are near the battery i'd be leaning towards the light switch, turn it on on off a heap of times.. flick the blinker switch to low and high a few times might help. they get dust and crap in the contacts..

pretty sure there is a fuse for them.. check the fuses. do the high beams flash when you pull the indicator back? are both high and low beam out?

i've had them hit at the top of the plenumn a few times in the past, so i bash it up in that area.(be the same as yours) not sure why or how it does. but it does. you could probably space down the pedal box a bit?

if it doesnt have a condenser its not going to have gas or work or leak when you remove it(the compressor might have some oil in it if you tip it upside down but theres not much in them at best of times. what car is this? XF? if so, those 12mm i think bolts are usually VERY tight that clamp the hoses on.. you can cut the hoses anyway if you dont care, but if you do you'll have a pipe/hose to scratch or cut yourself on instead. the joys of old falcons... even the newest XF is 20years old.

i never remove them when i take the motor out. even if they are buggered. i know someone who even refitted the air con condensor(radiator looking thing in front of the radiator) as he took it out, not long later a rock flicked up and put a hole in his radiator.. so he refitted it as a stone sheild lol. i cut the belt off on mine because i couldnt be bothered undoing the adjuster to replace the alt belt.. working air con is awesome.. but its an XF, so you can assume it wont work i think.

compressor is on the engine under the alternator. the evaporator is in the dash. unbolt it and leave it if its out of gas nothing will come out. .. why remove it, be lucky if it weighs 1kg... and if you need to you can use it as a heater core if the heater core dies soon(heater cores rarely last longer than 20 years.. so good chance its on its way already)

they are worth it.. just we are in a recession... either that, or people are wrong and XD-F parts arnt worth much

i have enough to make a good set or 2. found them after seeing some one asking crazy money on ebay for a set(never sold.. think it was $100 odd) what condition do you want? non split but dirty or super immac ones? are XE still white? (i have one black one, think its a boot one) was going to put a set on ebay one day soon, whats the offer if you willing have used ones?

is the cause the fuel pipe coming out of the carby(press fit) 20 years ago i had 2 mates both have thier cortinas catch fire(one burned to the ground completely) due to that pipe and i used a carby from one once and as i was joining fuel hose on i pulled the pipe out of the carby.. good lesson for anyone that has one... check the hose fitting on the carby, and carry a fire extinguisher. looks fixable easy enough though, burnitwithfire link doesn't work in 2022

any crossflows sounding like that? if i ever finish my transit van, wouldnt mind doing a true dual system if they can sound as good as that XP ute

when did you try it?

i dont know, i dont buy petrol.. i googled todays petrol prices and that was the price..... its $1.50 today according to the interwebs. gas is still around 60 cents.... how does the Aussie Dollar Vs USDollar affect fuel prices? that is going backwards fast

brake line threads are different when i went to try it the other way(XD booster in XF) didnt end up going any further but i'll back Gaz and Glenn on the subject

nah the heater core is just something air passes through that gets heated by water.. so i usually arrange the hoses through it the best fit for the space(always tight with LPG hoses in that area) by the sounds of it, it should just work.... its being an XF(testing your patience lol)

follow the hoses.. the one that goes to the water pump is the return. to the other is the supply from the head.. flipping it on the same hose would check that theory.... it has an arrow on it for a reason. but it should be pointing towards the heater box on the supply hose ideally.. to stop hot water going through in summer.

could it be possible the water direction through the tap is wrong? never tried reversing it but it has an arrow on it.. Dads old car he used to have a ball valve(plumbing tap) used to turn it off in summer, and on in winter.. regulate the temp by fan speed and the window lol.. i find i use the window and heater a bit too..

would definitelty depend on the tune on petrol i think.. most 4 litre ish motors get around 15litres per 100km from gas from what i have seen.. on petrol is another story though, whereas EFs and things were often getting better than 9litres per 100km on petrol(i had an EBXR6 that used to average 10litres petrol per 100km all the time) so theres cost comparison per 100km.. eg 15 litres LPG at 70cents = $10.50 per 100km or 8 litres petrol at $1.30 also = $10.50 per 100km would depend on emissions rules for turbo? thought LPG was one way of getting over the line? depends on expected power from both with turbo you'd still be spending money on upgrading the petrol system anyway in most cases.

have you asked a driver of a modern car thats been converted? most V6 commos get about 15 also.. Wes's spent some quality time being tuned by the best in the business..... that would be one reason. the combo was also matched correctly would be another reason. i used to get 20litres per 100km out of a 351 clevo, thought that was crap till i had a 202 VH commo converted on a reco motor and got the same......

15 litres per 100 km on all my stock motors past and present.. doesnt change much for city or highway or auto to T5 manual most were 2.77 or 2.92 diff one was 3.23 with T5 still the same my mild crossflow on GRA with 99rwkw was a guzler, used to use about 20litres per 100km.. used to go pretty good though.

looks like it just needs a patch.. not a section