deankxf

the fuel guage doesnt work with the XF tank sender. (its ok on most LPG tanks though) but you can mount the XF GL guage inside the EB cluster and do some wiring mods, or, i spoke to an instrument tech that can make it work other ways.. (not sure whats involved, but its possible) i used the E series oil sender also, aparently they vary a little. i will be making another soon, so wouldnt mind seeing if yours is easier to read than Mine John,

that should work the other way then(EF brakes on the AU Diff) its for My transit van that currently has a widened XF diff with drums... so a non modified housing with discs should be improved. hand brake will need to be remade anyway.

on a similar topic, anyone know if AU brakes and EF are the same on the diff? i may be buying an AU diff with no brakes and have an EB and an EF diff here with brakes if they fit?

My XF has been beaten up hills by a prius, a toyota starlet life, an empty maxi cememt truck burned me off at traffic light races lol.. its still going though one day i might hope to race a 3.3 litre XF and i might have half a chance lol. if you could check the trans fluid level without getting under the car you'd probably find its low on fluid, if its anything like my mates AU fairlane he had.. from slipping a bit to walking was measured in weeks not months.

most Dual Fuel cars suffer from needle and seat sticking.. something you can try is switching it to the middle(fuel off) position on the switch for a bit and then switch back to petrol. can also tap on the front of the carby near the fuel intake with something metal... this OFTEN seats the needle and seat/float. rarely but possible is the float sucks itself inside out almost (usually only in summer) and they make a plastic float for some carbs for this reason. if you cant fix it simply by tapping on it you will need to remove the carby top cover and check the float / needle and seat. FROM MY EXPERIENCE(20 years of webber X series on gas) they hate petrol once driven on gas, this is usually only from dried out diaphramns but anything could happen really. its a potential fire hazzard, so dont dilly dally about looking into it.

which means it if it worked ok with an EA towing a caravan it will be ok with a ute

the ea flywheel should fit the XG motor and work fine with the EA clutch

you'd need the same computer setup? may as well fit the E series computer if doing that? or you could buy the one Gaz suggested that is made to fit. probably cheaper than auto elec charges anyway?

interesting.. Zip ties would be your friend regarding the hose coiling? or duck tape it to a stick? how would it go on car panel? i bought a super cheap air blaster and garnet.. didnt do much on what i tried for the effort(will be handy for places the flap wheel wont fit though.)

if you fit a 4 speed auto you will need to change the diff ratio, the 2.77s wont like the BTR gear ratios anyway.,. with 2.77s in the diff and 3 speed auto it will get pretty much about as good economy its going to get anyway. if you wanted it to take off quicker by fitting 3.23 diff.. then you would benefit from an overdrive.. (theres a turbo 700 4 speed auto been fitted to a ford 6 in a transit van.. but once again.. cost of doing all the mods will outweigh any economy benefit.)

ahh well, pretty sure he was Gunna(he reminded me of me, hoard stuff for project oneday..) i wonder if you could fit an aftermarket points to elctronic kit to the E series Dizzy? my transit has a bosch moduel and chopper disc fitted to a points dizzy..

didn't Aaron (Hogan) end up using an ohc CPI dizzy and fit XF EST guts to it? then use the x series EST..

XD are Deep dish style, if you fit an XE/ XF wheel on, the blinker stalk almost touches the steering wheel

what do you turn the fog lights on with? on S packs, they had fog lights instead of the integrated spot light.. it was from the same switch on the guage pod(left one) in there, 2 plugs are present.. one for fog wiring, one for the driving light. they are wired differently. (fog lights only came on with parkers on XE s packs) there is a relay that has separate wiring for the fog lights or driving lights. it is near the battery, often the 30 year old fuse holder is rooted.. check that, check it even goes to the battery still.

they are a spot light, only come on when the switch on the left of the guage pod is pulled out plus on high beam *(maybe your fog lights use that switch now) XFs have a similar setup and they come on with high beam always (not switched separate) and work amazing*(if the reflectors are any good still). you could wire them to come on at the same time as high beams. first thing to do.. ADD RELAYS! stock globes are fine and work VERY well with relays added.(if the rest of the lense/reflectors are good) Check your reflectors inside the light assy.. are they shiny like a mirror? if not, get them reco'd(pretty sure the bigger one is same as the base model, double check that, they are more common though) AIMING.. the clips that hold the reflectors on get brittle with age.. possibly broken one and aiming is out. taking the lense off to access the insides if needed is risky(if you break a ghia lense. you may cry, they are rare and expensive) clean lenses(glass)(and clean protectors) are needed too. Ghia lights are brilliant when in good nic, they might be dull due to bad connections too.. pays to have a look at the electrical side being 30 years old.

mine did that a few weeks back from moisture on the dizzy cap.. could hear the spark jumping (if it was night, might have seen it) sprayed it with WD 40 and fixed.. my other ute was a classic.. think a rat chewed a chunk of the lead out.. was missing a bit anyway.

the hole is already there

zip tie it to the cross member

i ziptied my my XF one under the x member to keep the curve nice.. i would do this regardless of E series cable or the correct one

i've had heaps crack..well 5... same with firewalls. but thats on 15yr old car. wonder how long they take? my firewall is still good 30,000kms later as you'd expect(auto to manual converted) having rooted clutch cable doesnt help. wonder if thats half the issue(about $100 new for that too)

think so.. pretty sure the cables dont vary much compare to XG.. try it and see..

E series you need to remove the dash.. XF you can do with the dash in, i leave the steering column in.. remove the steering wheel, lower the column and rest it on the seat(2 nuts hold that to the pedal box from memory) worst part is undoing the nuts on the booster for me.. you still need to unplug the wires on the column, still a prick of a job.. if you have to buy a pedal box anyway.. i'd buy the pin kit, if the pedal box cracks(manual ones do still anyway) finding an auto one is far easier.

if you dont mind paying you can buy a pin that bolts on to the auto pedal box... if you are handy you can make one. http://www.malwoodauto.com.au/innovations.htm

i took mine out once and refitted it with the rope.. was before the help of the internets.. so there might be a best place to end up ? but i had a lower corner last to get in and i was not having an easy time(it was as if the window grew 3 mm too wide) with the attitude of "this is going in or i'll break it" it went in with a lot of force.. (next time i'd pay a windscreen expert to refit maybe.. if they are experts)

idler arms are the most quickly wearing shit thing in the front end. the drag link is the bar that joins all it together, holds the inner tie rods and mounts to the idler arm and the pitman arm. you cant do a wheel alignment with worn parts.. i had that issue once with BOB JANE, who didn't(and 10 years later probably still dont?) check the front end for wear prior to an alignment. hence i like Pedders, they will not align a worn out heap of crap.. lol..