deankxf

most people who fit a bigger carby to the iron head (1979 XD) would get the XC/XD redline manifold and fit a 350 holley (could adapt it to a weber if preferred) if it was an XD 1981 with Alloy head, the XE/XF manifold fits, but it's a bit of a muck around to get working on an XD still, (throttle cable ball is different size, no choke output on the alternator, something else i can't remember) if it was mine, i'd keep it stock and find a carby kit if required. they drink a bit of petrol but i'd suspect it's not a daily driver doing heaps of kms, the stromberg is pretty reliable.

stomberg single barrel,. if it looks like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143667442469

you can try this guide out, but it wasn't that easy for a mate of mine who's tall and needed (wanted) to get the seat lower and further back in the same process. don't throw the S pack seats out, there's been a lot of facebook posts looking for S pack seats lately, definitely one of the nicer parts of an S pack if you ask me.

good point, i haven't had many with this issue but i did have one (partly mangled due to door misalignment from broken door hinge) i had a feeling i undid the hinges off the pillars to get more wiggle on the latch and striker. might be something to try next.

you might need to do what's in one of the videos, line up the lock part (you'll see what the lock button does) then lift the pin with a screw driver. i've only had this happen once personally and someone else had it so i made the video for them. i think the door mech was just full of dust mainly, i don't recall there being anything broken in it in this case. that spring in the bottom of the door is usually from previous broken door handles if it's thicker spring metal. bigger also. you'll be able to see it on the handle easy enough.

it could be just stiff in the latch(door out of adjustment due to stuffed hinges/cracked door near hinge) if so, give the door from the inside some decent push pull action while holding the handle open(don't force the handle, that's not the issue unless something else is broken, forcing the handle will break something 99% of the time)

just posted 2 videos, SPRAY it all with WD40 or CRC etc and keep trying if it's all connected still try make sense of the videos, the lady i made them for figured it out from them.

i made these videos for someone 11yrs ago with a similar issue, it's all i can do at the moment. (no more falcons)

so the inside handle doesn't work either?

if it's as above, and you find in the bottom of the door bits of this spring.. it's the issue link to one here, i've never bought one or fitted it, only just bought a good used mechanism and swapped it. https://www.custommustangs.com.au/ford-falcon-door-lock-mechanism-repair-spring-xd-x this isn't the cheapest it's just the first one that popped up with google

FIRSTLY, try turn the key to UNLOCK and hold it in that position, if the handle works to open the door then it will confirm what i'm expecting same could be done with the window down and holding the lock button up. if you lift the handle and notice the lock button dropping, then it's what i suspect above. there's a broken spring in the door actuator check that first and i'll see if i can google a pic for you.

are you sure it's got a BW35? it should have a BW40 in it from new. = direct swap from XF. other than the kickdown cable(if it was a carby, if the XF was EFI it would be same cable) the BW51 from the XF EFI was supposed to be better, (when new) but these days everything's worn out unless otherwise rebuilt in My opinion. the ideal conversion for power/responsiveness/gearing/strength is the C4 that the XD ghia came with (6cyl) but i don't know how you'd go with the kickdown cable on EFI due to it wasn't an option on XD. that trans needs the XD ghia shifter also(or a V8 one from XA to XE with C4/C10 ) and speedo gear swap on the sender and trans lines and possibly flex plate(possibly same?) getting rare and very expensive these days though. i'd say swapping out a BW35/40 for another BW40 would be simple ALSO REMOVE THE FLEXPLATE(auto flywheel) and replace the WATER welsh plug in the back of the block while it's apart. (guess how i know about that one) the other one is for the cam and naturally inline with the cam, and won't need changing(oil behind it, not water/coolant) rebuilding the original? i guess you could if you are confident, not something i'd tackle personally. (spend hours/days doing it to put it back and still not work would be My luck)

the kickdown cable (TV cable ) you need to remove the sump and from memory it's pretty simple to unhook and swap to the other box. (i did the opposite about 10yrs ago, swapped an EFI BW51 into a carby spec BW40 and just swapped the cable over. the BW35 can possibly have the trans cooler lines on the opposite side, that might be a pain in the ask, the T bar shifter adjustment might be slightly different also as i remember mucking around changing a BW35 into My XE ute that had a stuffed BW40 i've seen the BW35 with the cooler lines on either side, so you might be lucky, and i have no idea why the shifter rod needed mucking with as i'd still assume it is located exactly same spot as the others on the transmission case. quick visual should see the cooler lines on the correct side or not, and the cable was fairly simple with the sump off. (i vaguely remember the cortina BW35 having the lines on the wrong side when My brother fitted the XF engine and BW40 to his TE back 25yrs ago ish)

makes you wonder why they don't have a proper filter in the cooling system at minimum.

why do you do the 1.5 litres at a time thing?

i'll give My 2cents worth also, i was told with My lexus LS400 to change the fluid 1 litre at a time, drain 1 litre, add a new one litre .. reasoning, new fluid washes the GUNK out of it's hiding hole and blocks things up.. i did the lexus like this, no issue 80,000kms later (oil was disturbing also) nissan pulsar i had, changed fluid in one go.. dead in a week. 2 different transmission service dudes said, check the pan, if it's full of "material" (soot like stuff) it's probably worn out. don't touch it.. (aka don't change the oil) reco BTR already removed from the car might be reasonable, the major expense is the labour. .. they may not warranty it if not fitted by them? might be worth asking though.

i had a quick search on ebay at the time, but didn't see anything, these days a lot of people are only dealing via "fake" book, as ebay (fee bay) has fees and still has time wasters that bid and don't pay. might be worth checking gumtree, i'm sure they'd be listed as ESP pod (gauge pod, 3 gauge, dash mounted gauges or something. type in ESP and scroll through 1000 listings narrowed down via price between $200 and $800 might give decent results)

i haven't seen them for a long time(3yrs at least) , it was on facebook. you'd probably need to join an ESP group and start asking, or ask on that ESP forum if it still exists(I didn't join it) everything's so far beyond reasonably priced these days i'd wonder if they were anywhere near the $250 odd they were. (that being said, someone's making the XE bumper lip spoiler and it's cheap on ebay at $200 ish or $250 odd, maybe they'd know of the pod)

what colour is the outer sheath covering the wires on the speedo sender? RED is the XF 10 pulse one, Black is XD XE in My experience, there's been times where it's not been the case, but mostly, red = XF 10 pulse. HOWEVER, if you have the XF one fitted, the speedo will just read 20% higher, so 60kmh will be 72kmh on the speedo if so, etc 100kmh = 120kmh. it will work consistently otherwise. there was a gauge pod the ESP had, someone was reproducing them, but expect $400. there's similar ones out there or you could make something if you are keen

SENDERS Pulse rate XD and XE are same, 8 pulse per tailshaft rev (XF to EL and possibly newer are 10 pulse) look at your speedo gear on the sender, but more importantly the wires going into the sender, they often break right at the sender. the gear from the Borg warner 35/40 will fit the single rail (ratios will vary mostly on the diff ratio) if it had a C4 auto, that gear runs the opposite direction and that gear doesn't mesh with the other box. with the volt meter, do you mean intermittent as in it ticks when the blinker is on? this is normal, drops when you put the brakes on, headlights etc. Normal. i'd check the wires at the speedo sender first, wires where they are glued into the back of the sender.

@2redrovers on the car is a ZG grille, the one you want to fit is a ZF grille i always thought they were a direct swap. if not Luke would know, he's been wrecking them for years. his details below. Rusty Ford Wreckers Supplying spare parts for Falcons, Fairlanes and LTDs built between 1972 and 1984 0427 318 701 (Luke) 22 Killara Road, Campbellfield Vic 3061 Monday - Friday 8:30am - 5:00pm Saturday 11:00am - 3:00pm See less

If you find rusty ford wreckers or LukeGT (same person ) he'd know and likely have it. Campbellfield Vic location. I've mentioned him before so if your phone search works better than mine you'll get a link to click. Otherwise I'lladd it later

can see on the right (Alloy head) 2 of the holes on top row are bigger for the dowels. otherwise it looks same, i am betting i used the alloy head gasket due to the intake/exhaust gaskets in the VRS kit but i bet the XC one would have worked also i can only guess, but i bet i overlayed the gaskets and thought close enough, send it.

i did this nearly 30yrs ago (XC block into XE with XE head) ***NOTE if you wanted to keep your current carb(assuming stock) etc, you'd need to find the XD alloy head intake, it runs a single barrel stromberg same as the XC (pic below) one for sale on Gumtree Australia https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lesmurdie/engine-engine-parts-transmission/ford-xd-xf-4-1-250-x-flow-inlet-manifold/1300505912 inlet manifold on the iron head won't fit the alloy head due to water port exit. i don't remember much about it but most likely asked someone at the time? where i bought the VRS gasket set from said it wont work, the gaskets are different (XC to XE ) but all i found was the XC block didn't accept the dowels the XE head used, so just didn't use them. i'm going to assume the compression ratio will be higher, because this engine combo in My XE was one of the best "stock" one's i ever had (probably had 20 Xflow falcons over the years) you could measure the chambers to be sure(the alloy head already does have many varying chambers and sizes with different piston dishes so you probably should calculate compression ratio regardless) My engine was on LPG 99% of the time but it ran on petrol fine (assume premium was used, never liked the cheaper fuel due to advancing timing to suit LPG better)

yes, it's been a noticeable difference on My cars once removed (due to falling apart and once catching on fire) (i also had a bonnet go rusty because the seller of the car washed it prior to sale and it held moisture forever) i would have sworn the XF bonnet was same as XG, it definitely fits no issue but i've never looked at the felting mounting.