deankxf

can you put a scissor jack between the leaf springs and the rim to try push it off? i had a ghia wheel stuck on a ZL i wrecked once, didnt come off even driving with no wheen nuts and turning in the back yard.. bought a sledge hammer and belted it off.. its amazing how often a sledge gets used once you own one.

when the heads spin on the seat frame i just clamp vise grips on the bastards.. be sure to wire brush the bolts and spray with CRC or similar for added ease.

i have been known to be wrong on occasions.. but i'd say the bolts that go through the floor with nuts under (upto 1987? XF) would be all same as to XC and prior. i have a 1988 XF ute which has the e series setup

might need to boil up some rusty dirty water to give it the "lived in a wreckers yard" look spray on "affected areas" pics are awesome.. its like the sleeper equivalent of engine parts

i'm surprised by the results of porting the manifold. i read an article years ago about extrude honing (pumping an abrasive goo through ports of things to improve flow etc. cutting one open is something i hadnt seen before) had me wondering if you could sand cast the external stock manifold then do the perfect port/plenum shape inside that casting.. then recast it in alloy having all the stock part numbers etc showing would be a cheeky way to go. what crosses the line in "using the stock manifold?" cutting and welding, changing the internals.. complete internal re cast of the runners? etc

what sort of car? my EA sports cluster had the needle slip on the guage(temp one, but same setup) took the needle off and repositioned it and all good.

fit the wheels if thats what you are happy to do(legal, looks, etc ) then do 100kmh with a GPS or similar and note what the speedo reads (it may read 90kmh when doing 100 for eg) then remove the speedo gear and see what number of teeth are on it.. if it has 19 for egsample(most common for 2.92 diff) you can get a 18tooth gear and fit it, and it will make about close enough from what i have done near 20 years ago.. if its out 2 km or so you can pluck off the needle and reposition it just to make it safer not to speed but thats only if its close otherwise it will throw the rest out.. not sure if the ghia cluster is adjustable(i have one in bits here but cant see any adjustment) failing that, you can get a speedo corrector kit(jaycar do one and some other brands do them also) and wire it in, will be able to get it spot on with one of them from what i hear.

yeah, depends on what diff gears are fitted currently. also if its an XF or later uses a different transducer which is 20% more pulses than XD XE one. how far out is it? gears wont get it spot on, if its out 5km you will be lucky if you can get it closer with gears, usually one tooth different makes about 10% change.(10kmh ish measured at 100kmh)

i like the found in a paddock look, i'd love something with the patina if you can call it that of original paint that has been driven through a barbed wire fence and rounded up cattle etc. the trick is how to replace the panels without messing with the look to much, a different colour guard from an Spack would suit me fine(at least the stripe matches) its not everyones cuppa tea though

probably are same, My XF ute has them like that also as Noobus has explained, theres a reinforced edge on the later roofs there and it covers it up

looks like part of the ball joint is left on.. mine havent separated like that before? i would agree with McFly and bash it off and bin it without seeing it in person

think he means the marks in the middle, look spotwelded initially? the rivets are gone in the pic, if they were spot welded(i wouldnt have noticed in the past i'd have bashed them off still anyway)

they are rivetted in can't you just bash em off now

i use the jack method too, but beware of the paint (scratches never bothered me though)

did you leave the sway bar in? if so, having both wheels off the ground at the same time might help

might need to tap it with a hammer etc if its still not going in

loosen the 3 ball joint bolts then fit the castor rod, then retighten the ball joint bolts up. its got slight movement in the bolts and should fit.

you might be surprised, fixed a Massive rear main leak on an XF i had.. when i pulled the seal out later it was cactus, still dont know how it didnt just pour oil out

ZJs and XDs didn't run a return line from my memory, its probably not needed on the weber carb even. i am sure i have just plugged that line in the past on similar conversions(XD, cortina and transit van)

not sure if this issue is resolved yet, but for front or rear crank seal leaks i have added this stuff.. STP engine stop leak and it has ALWAYS stopped that leak. that transmission seal gets hot and dry from being near the exhaust, but i'd even still add some stop leak to the transmission..worst case is it doesnt help.. best case no more leaks whoever said to change an engine needs to be avoided, as they are clearly rip offs.

i was wondering about filters when looking on summit racing site for the lexus motor.. some were rated at 20micron? and i think the K&N was a 10micron filter.. didnt recall seeing the flow rating but was planing to look into it to compare the ryco z148 i just bought for it. the ryco packet says meets OEM specs.. spose thats all i need in a stock engine.

the one that goes to the oil cap? or pcv valve is one the hose goes stiff and can split

also i moved a non used wire to the tacho pin, because i originally bought a loom section from a base model..

i found my notes, if you cant work it out.. best not start.. NO WARRANTY, NO PROMISES, ENTER AT OWN RISK i have a cluster here someone cooked trying to do this conversion lol(not me) fried tacho, fried circuit board, fried fuel guage, speedo not working in trip meter part with new gear fitted.. probably did that also lol when looking at my chart the numbers i wrote in the XF plugs go to the numbered E series wires e series plugs are numbered. the XF ones are Not wiring diagram showing plugs(if keeping the XF plugs from a sacrificed GL cluster for eg) Loom interface i made(can be removed to refit an XF cluster etc) fuel guage mod i invented, (this is to fit the XF GL fuel guage,)(there is other ways of making the E series one work..i dont know how) other part of the fuel guage mod, bypassing the internal circuit board

thats handy to know regarding the early senders, my transit sender may work straight up also then? if i ever get to this mod for it also.