deankxf

i thought the neutral switch had adjustment in it, rotates on slotted mounts slightly

keep a spare wire that will reach from the solenoid trigger in case it leaves you stranded one day(due to the neutral switch) can crank it on the positive post of the battery or put a switch on it. needle and seat seems likely in this case for running rough... turn the petrol lock off into the middle and crank it over for a bit, if it comes good will mean its stuck needle and seat. you should have fancy gross jet needle and seat for it in that shed? that might fix it. PS... take the holley with you when you go to Deni... at least you have a backup if the themoquad packs up.

i bought it from the tip shop.. TOYOTA something.. not sure what model though (had a joint to the console lid area but i cut it down to suit the armrest seat)

this is what i had last. XF fairmont door trims XF ghia steering wheel EB fairmont ghia Series 1 seats (mine was a late XF 1991 so seats were E series mount type originally)

e series wagon fuel tank fits in XF wagons, but the fuel sender will need modified to work with the XF dash

you can also advance the timing by a whole heap by moving the plug leads on the cap one position around, i did that recently(2 places on a 4cyl magna as it was 180 degrees out.) you do have the leads correct as per firing order?

thermoquads crack/break when you get a backfire on lpg(dual fuel) then set fire to the engine bay if you switch over to petrol. for dual fuel you should definitely run a holley, but in that case its hardly worth putting a kit through it as it will dry out and get a flat spot before long anyway(accelerator pump mostly)

i'd still stick with the stock 60/55 globes, on high beam they see so far up the road you could double the speed limit. and the 60/55 wont melt the chrome off the reflector as fast

i'd say the dimensions of the light assy over all would be the same. the brackets on them can be a little out but they are fairly adjustable. getting the gaps right should be possible. changing the glass lense wont affect its fitment i dont think. adjusting the beam is the aftermarket weakness though and even if you get it right it wont be as good as the originals by far.

remove the heater tap, they corrode and fail internally often. could be just due for replacement. if you can see the heater tap, change the heater setting from cold to hot and see if its moved the lever on the tap.. if so, its rooted. if it doesn't move, then you have a vac issue somewhere.

air con guy i use to go to used to screw them shut(under the glovebox) so they would be constant recirc. i have also noticed that the foam that seals the plenum to heaterbox often disintergrates so that can be another issue.

are you sure the locks are different left and right? i swapped mine over when the drivers one got butchered(by Me) the circlip comes off and swap the lever over from memory.

i thought left and right door locks are same? just swap over the doover thingy.. the XG spare wheel lock should work then? what are the pano barn door locks like? if same, could get enough for 2 doors and ign with same key

they are different on the doors, i was oneday going to see if the XG/XH ute/pano spare wheel lock would work? as i had a feeling they are same as the XD-XF door locks.. needs investigationing one day. you could fit XG/XH doors, but they are rarer and would need to fit the striker too which mounts a bit different.

you might be able to find wiring diagrams on fordmods forum but i have a feeling they weren't 100% when i did mine anyway. i have a feeling the EF/EL use a different setup entirely and rely on the ECU? (From what i was told once... i never needed to know so didnt care to check.) if you are using an EF loom? why not consider an XH cluster and surround... assuming it still fits the XF dash?

i've done it, the fuel guage is usually the only thing that wont work without mods.(providing you have wired it correctly) i'm pretty sure i still have a full conversion stored at My mates place that i'd sell. its the EA S pack cluster(or XG S pack) with XG mount, facia and adaptor loom.(i modded the Fuel guage so its plug and play into XF non ghia dash) what issues do you have? i put diagrams on one of the forums once link here to one thread http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/39634-ed-fairmont-instrument-cluster-into-xf/ i dont check in the forums that often lately, but will reply when i get time.

supra box W58 are ok, but the cost will be heaps more than a T5

toyota box = custom speedo, custom cross member, custon bell housing, custom clutch, custom tailshaft.. insert $500 for every "custom" word used. T5 = single rail V8 parts used= cheapest for a stock clevo. if a 2.92 or 2.77 diff is used, i'd stay with a single rail anyway = cheaper(or leave it auto)

i saw them on ebay ages ago.. pretty sure it was from rare spares... might not have been, last time i did one i took a spring from a different mech also.

is the mechanism the internal door one(that you changed?) if not, that is likely the cause.. in particular a tiny spring in it(rare spares sell it) if you turn the key to unlock or lift the knob to unlock at the same time then open the door with the handle and it works, its likly this spring is missing or broken.. otherwise.. more info or pics will be required

from My experience there is 2 types of shifters. one uses that horseshoe bush, the other doesn't(guessing the older one doesnt and the bush was later designed for easy repair) how much slop is from the shaft bushes in the alloy shifter housing? near 20 years ago i had that shaft turned down on a lathe a few thou and oversize bronze bushes put in the alloy housing.. that solved much slop on the older one..

i will always ask these guys for my clutch needs never had an issue with any parts got through them and always had great service and price. not sure if they have what you want.. but they probably do.. http://stores.ebay.com.au/Sunbury-Brakes-Online

its not the pedal its the bit it mounts to.

have a look at where the clutch pedal mounts under the dash, its probably cracked. sometimes the firewall cracks also, but seeing the pedal is off skew it will be the pedal box i think.

does it fix the horrible noise that comes out the exhaust pipe on them?